Different cassettes, same bike

Secteur
Secteur Posts: 1,971
edited August 2011 in Road beginners
My road wheels are 11-27, but my turbo wheel is 12-28. Both Shimano 5600 cassettes on Shimano wheels.

Will regularly switching between the two affect my bike in any way?

Only, my road wheel is silent, but my turbo wheel makes a noise as if the jockey wheel is running against the cassette teeth and sounds a bit nasty, though on close inspection I dont think they were connecting, and I did adjust the rear-derailleur tension screw both ways and it made no difference.

I dont need a different chain for the different cassettes do I?

Comments

  • blackhands
    blackhands Posts: 950
    You don't need a new chain - although it might be a tad short on th eturbo wheel. Anyway why are you using a 28t sprocket on the turbo. You don't need really low gears as you are not going uphill.
  • Secteur
    Secteur Posts: 1,971
    It was the only one of the four different range cassettes that Evans had in stock on that day! I guessed it wouldnt make a difference which one I got?
  • merak
    merak Posts: 323
    It really makes no difference - riding the turbo is only an approximation of the real thing, so just bung it in the gear that gives you the effort you want at the cadence you want. But I don't know what this current fashion is for "turbo wheels" - I have never had one: I just bung my bike on the turbo, which is fine unless you are riding at a steady 35mph or you are doing two hours a day on it.
  • brettjmcc
    brettjmcc Posts: 1,361
    merak wrote:
    But I don't know what this current fashion is for "turbo wheels" - I have never had one: I just bung my bike on the turbo, which is fine unless you are riding at a steady 35mph or you are doing two hours a day on it.

    For me its simple. Wife has to go out and I have to look after my son - put him to bed and get out the turbo. Wheel change under 30secs, and I am not destroying my road tyre.

    Its a luxury I know, but a cheap Decathlon rear wheel and a on sale 105 casette means I put it togther for £70. It also hate changing tyres, and my road tyre is a right pain to get on and off the rim...
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  • merak
    merak Posts: 323
    brettjmcc wrote:

    For me its simple. Wife has to go out and I have to look after my son - put him to bed and get out the turbo. Wheel change under 30secs, and I am not destroying my road tyre.

    Its a luxury I know, but a cheap Decathlon rear wheel and a on sale 105 casette means I put it togther for £70. It also hate changing tyres, and my road tyre is a right pain to get on and off the rim...
    The thing is I don't change anything. I have never destroyed a road tyre on a turbo. Ever.
  • Lifeboy123
    Lifeboy123 Posts: 213
    Other than fitting a new chain, do you need to change the indexing of your gears when switching between a 12-25 and 11-28 10sp cassette?
  • Secteur
    Secteur Posts: 1,971
    Yes, I am really looking for confirmation that the different ratio 10sp Shimano cassettes can be used interchangeably, or do I need to send it back to Evans and change it for an identical one to the one on my road wheel?
  • merak
    merak Posts: 323
    No, why would you? The spacing of the cassettes is identical. If the actual lateral position of each cassette with respect to the dropouts is a little different on each wheel you might need to tune the indexing to stop chatter, but even this is unlikely. I don't understand why you think you need identical ratio cassettes?
  • Secteur
    Secteur Posts: 1,971
    merak wrote:
    I don't understand why you think you need identical ratio cassettes?

    Because I am a bike beginner and learning as I go along! Now I know!
  • merak
    merak Posts: 323
    BTW, just a thought re the noise - when you put the cassette on the turbo wheel, did you make sure the smallest sprocket is engaged with the free-hub splines and the lockring is torqued to spec?
  • Secteur
    Secteur Posts: 1,971
    I am sure the sprockets are on correctly (but I will double check).

    As per torque - I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tighten to 95% of "as hard as I can"...
  • glanma
    glanma Posts: 36
    If you're using a standard short cage rear mech you will be putting it at its limits on a 28 tooth rear sprocket which may give the rough sound you're getting. You could try changing to a medium cage rear mech will should be fine for both 27t and 28t sprockets.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    glanma wrote:
    If you're using a standard short cage rear mech you will be putting it at its limits on a 28 tooth rear sprocket which may give the rough sound you're getting. You could try changing to a medium cage rear mech will should be fine for both 27t and 28t sprockets.

    It would only be on the limit if he was running big-big. Hard to see anyone inadvertently doing that on a turbo trainer :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Chris James
    Chris James Posts: 1,040
    Using the same wheels my turbo sounds rougher than on the road. It is because the clamp for the skewer moves my rear derailleur cable loop slightly. I can alter it by re-indexing but don't bother.

    Sepratae to that, you may need to tweak your B screw to run the 29 tooth cassette. Also, as far as I know, 5600 cassettes were either 12-25 or 12-27 so not 28 tooth!
  • rafletcher
    rafletcher Posts: 1,235
    glanma wrote:
    If you're using a standard short cage rear mech you will be putting it at its limits on a 28 tooth rear sprocket which may give the rough sound you're getting. You could try changing to a medium cage rear mech will should be fine for both 27t and 28t sprockets.

    Noooo! It's a turbo wheel - there is no need to ever use the 28 sprocket, just run on the 20/21 area and adjust turbo resistance. And leave the setup "just right" for your road wheel.

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