Brakes - recessed bolts . . . .

Greg T

I have acquired a project bike . . .

A 20 ish year old Holdsworth steel frame job...

I want to upgrade the brakes. However, modern brakes have stems that don't go all the way through the fork crown / brake bridge to have a nut lock then down on the far side - they stop short and a receesed bolt goes into the crown/bridge to close the gap . . .

computer says drill it out to allow the bolt to seat - however - this may well lead to power tool-a-geddon and I'm hesitant - any experience?

Also....

No - i didn't find it in a garage in Clapham . . . This may go on . . . .

rjsterry

I've seen some brakes offered with non-recessed nuts for fitting on old frames. Definitely a pillar drill with frame securely clamped in position job. Doesn't there need to be a 'shoulder' for the lip of the recessed nut to hold against - i.e.you need to drill, then counter-drill. SimonAH to the thread please.

Yep, Tektro do their long reach callipers in recessed allen nut or traditional.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/brakes/calipers/tektro-r559-extra-long-reach-brakes.html

SimonAH

Should be no issue - clamp and use a press drill for accuracy.

HOWEVER bear in mind that the hex head on a 'modern' set up usually sits into a formed dimple, here it will be proud of the surface. Can't see a problem with this, but thought I'd mention it.

Gussio

I am going through the same process with something a lot less attractive than a Holdsworth. Couldn't get round the need for a drill, so stripped the existing Weinmann brakes off, cleaned them up, lubed, and added new blocks. They now work really well*.




*In the workstand - yet to be tested on the road.

Gussio

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tektro-tektro-shimano-pattern-70-mm-dual-pivot-brake-bolt-cr-mo-for-nut-conversion-prod24266/?src=froogle

Might be an answer to your problem.

Greg T

I've invested in Skeleton Campag so now HAVE to fit them . . . .

I need me a drill stand!

Excellent . . . . .

More kit = cool . . .. . .

Gussio

Drilling a classic frame could be construed as vandalism....the bolt in the link above would be a neater workaround, certainly for the front brake. Your bike though, to do with as you please. With the frame that I am working on, there isn't enough tolerance to increase the hole size for the rear brake.

Greg T

I've got Campy brakes now . . .

Apparently you can get them with Long Stems.. But I didn't

Why didn't I do my research BEFORE i bought them.

DAMN YOU WIGGLE!!!!!

rjsterry

A Shimano bolt on Campy Skeleton callipers is surely a worse crime. If it even fits.

Gussio

The Shimag horror

Drill it is then. 8mm bit for the rear of the fork. Extreme caution if tackling the rear brake bridge.....

Bon chance.

Greg T

I think I'm boned . .

I may have to OH THE HORROR - do it properly and return them and get the long stem version - you know - properly and not do it tonight and feck everything up

Gussio

On the plus side, you will only have the chance to feck it up once with a drill......

gtvlusso

Personally - I used an electric hand drill, 8mm drill bit and a right angle drill adaptor to do the rear brake bridge - buy one from toolmart for £10. That has been used on all my conversions - have some courage man!

Piece of cake :-)

Jay dubbleU

Greg T wrote:

I think I'm boned . .

I may have to OH THE HORROR - do it properly and return them and get the long stem version - you know - properly and not do it tonight and feck everything up

Don't do it tonight and feck everything - do it PROPERLY - after all is is a Holdsworth - it deserves proper treatment*


*This may or may not be your concience speaking

cjcp

Life would have been a lot easier if you'd just bought the Holdsworth frame on display in the shop of the same name...

Greg T

gtvlusso wrote:

Personally - I used an electric hand drill, 8mm drill bit and a right angle drill adaptor to do the rear brake bridge - buy one from toolmart for £10. That has been used on all my conversions - have some courage man!

Piece of cake :-)

So......

You've done this then and it hasn't gone bad wrong shrapnel wounds to face drama on you?

drill out to 8mm on the back of both the bridge and crown?

I'm thinking it doesn't need to be counter sunk as the head can just sit proud - right . . . . ?

also . . .

Life would have been a lot easier if you'd just bought the Holdsworth frame on display in the shop of the same name...

that's what gave me the bug . . . .

they want 2,500 quid for it

Also I've been itching for a project for ages . . .

SimonAH

Send me the f&%#ing forks and I'll drill and ream them for you. No charge.

itboffin

I've done it twice without bother and i'm a flipping DIY nightmare.

what you'll need is a lot of booze, to be consumed before during and after, bandages & plasters and a big box of tissues for the tears.

best be on the safe side and ship the family off for the night.

gtvlusso

Greg T wrote:

gtvlusso wrote:

Personally - I used an electric hand drill, 8mm drill bit and a right angle drill adaptor to do the rear brake bridge - buy one from toolmart for £10. That has been used on all my conversions - have some courage man!

Piece of cake :-)

So......

You've done this then and it hasn't gone bad wrong shrapnel wounds to face drama on you?

drill out to 8mm on the back of both the bridge and crown?

I'm thinking it doesn't need to be counter sunk as the head can just sit proud - right . . . . ?

also . . .

Life would have been a lot easier if you'd just bought the Holdsworth frame on display in the shop of the same name...

that's what gave me the bug . . . .

they want 2,500 quid for it

Also I've been itching for a project for ages . . .

Yup - done it quite a few times:

Drilled 8mm (check this by measuring the recessed brake nut - pretty sure they are 8mm) - I drilled the the back of the fork crown and the back of the rear brake bridge - the bugger is the rear bridge as you have to get the drill between the seatstay and the bridge - hence the right angle adaptor, purchased from toolshop:

http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Righ ... 3969273082

The head of the recessed bolt is what keeps the brake caliper in place - I would not countersink as you are weakening the entire mounting point for the caliper.

These are what you are talking about, right:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-alle ... -prod8345/

**I still have my face left, but, my hands, oh god my hands........