Recurring v-brake drag

alomac
alomac Posts: 189
edited August 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
I'm having an issue with the cheapie Promax v-brakes on my commuter where the right-hand front calliper (the one with the stirrup the noodle hooks into) won't retract properly so that the pads drag slightly.

I know this is the most basic of v-brake issues, and is adjusted out using the spring tension, but when I do this, the adjustment only lasts for a while before the problem recurs. Other times it comes and goes, with each squeeze of the lever being something of a lottery. The last time this happened, I removed the callipers, cleaned and degreased them and the mounting studs, regreased the studs with Finish Line teflon grease, reinstalled and readjusted. This lasted for two weeks until today. We've had a few rainy days, so maybe the grease has been affected, though it shouldn't be...
Otherwise, I was wondering if maybe the cables are getting cacky, or if I've somehow screwed things up with my amateur mechanics. The rear brakes, which I've never really meddled with, are fine.

There's also an issue with the front calliper's spring tension in that I can only get tension if I fit the springs to the top holes of their mount. If I use the middle or lower holes, the callipers flop limply and won't spring back, even with the cable unhooked. The brakes did work fine with the springs in the middle holes when I bought the bike. The bike is 18 months old and has been used daily as a commuter in all weathers.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    sounds like time to start bending the springs to add more tension. (dont forget to back off the tension on the other side to help if you want to keep playing).

    TBH I would bin the levers and fit some Deore ones.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • alomac
    alomac Posts: 189
    nicklouse wrote:
    TBH I would bin the levers and fit some Deore ones.

    The levers are Shimano's EF-50 shifter/brake lever (The 7-speed version, but I think the quality still counts as Acera-level) rather than something from Promax. Is this good enough, or would you still swap?

    I'll try bending the springs and try not to wreck them...
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I think Nick meant the V-brake 'levers' (arms) not the levers on the bars, thus fitting fresh units with fresh springs.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • alomac
    alomac Posts: 189
    Ah, sorry, I've never heard them referred to in that way. Given that its an inexpensive upgrade of an important component, it's probably a good idea.

    If that's the case, is it worth shelling out for a high spec calliper like an Avid SD or Deore LX/XT if I'm keeping the Acera-spec levers? I don't know how much of a brake's performance is down to the callipers rather than the (control) levers, pads and cables.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Deore level (That is Shimano Deore or similar from Avid) work just as well as more expensive ones, the dearer ones are just a little lighter, that is until you step up to the articulated ones where they have the extra arm to keep the pad square to the rim at all times, but they are pricey.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.