Shimano replacement or upgrade.

chopchop
chopchop Posts: 158
edited August 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
I want to change a few drivetrain components because they are tired, missed changes and slipping gears. Adjusting the mechs makes no difference, I think they've had their day. The rear mech looks a bit bashed so I'll change that as well.

What I have on the bike:

Rear mech RD-M591 Deore
Cassette is a CSHG50-9
Chain is a CNHG73

So, question is, should I just straight replace these or are there better alternatives or easy upgrades that will work with the rest of my setup?
Also, having priced up the bits, I have seen different options for the cassette (11-32 or 11-34) which one should I be looking for. I understand that the numbers indicate the number of teeth but could I use either one and what effect do they have?
What does 'long cage' refer to when choosing the mech?
If I were to straight replace the above, they come up as @£65 on CRC, anywhere cheaper?


Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    which cassette is up to you. do you want a lower gear?
    cage length is all about your range of gears. See the FAQs.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • chopchop
    chopchop Posts: 158
    Cheers Nick. Having now looked at the FAQ, I realise I want a long cage as I have 3 rings up front.

    I wouldn't mind as low a gear as possible as I'm still puffing uphills, so do I go for a 32 or 34?

    I take it there wouldn't be any benefit choosing any different rear mech?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    well a bigger cog will give a lower gear.

    nothing wrong with Deore parts.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • chopchop
    chopchop Posts: 158
    Ah, thought the cogs would be the same size but with different teeth spacing- makes sense now!

    I have a 34 on the bike so will straight swap and try to get fitter.

    Anything else I should consider changing while the rear hub is in bits? bearings etc?