f/s bike travel change 160-100mm
red eye
Posts: 264
On the bike is a 200mm e2e, 55mm stroke to give 160mm travel. So say If I can find a shock with 179 e2e, 34 stroke and pair it with 100mm forks would this work? I posted this on another forum and getting conflicting answers.
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No.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
I'm going to say no.
even if it did work, the geometry would be all wrong and the ride utter shite.0 -
But why? Surely I would be like running 70mm sag but with only 10mm extension. I will be using a 100mm fork aswell0
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Head angle, seat tube angle and tube lengths will be designed around 160mm travel. It would feel very odd at 100mm.
Some people notice a big difference in handling and feel from changing from 100mm to 120mm and vice versa on the same frame.
For instance, I had a 160mm travel hardtail with Uturn Domain forks, meaning I could run it at 160mm or 115mm.
At 115mm it was just far too steep and pretty much unridable. You could forget going down hill!0 -
I see what you mean but what you said is for one end, if both ends are dropped equaly the geo should be the same just the BB lower to the groundThe Northern Monkey wrote:Head angle, seat tube angle and tube lengths will be designed around 160mm travel. It would feel very odd at 100mm.
Some people notice a big difference in handling and feel from changing from 100mm to 120mm and vice versa on the same frame.
For instance, I had a 160mm travel hardtail with Uturn Domain forks, meaning I could run it at 160mm or 115mm.
At 115mm it was just far too steep and pretty much unridable. You could forget going down hill!0 -
If you're going to contest people's answers, why bother asking at all?0
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not contesting trying to get an understand as people say it won't work and I can't see why. You not got anything better to do?yeehaamcgee wrote:If you're going to contest people's answers, why bother asking at all?0 -
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your last post you used your uturn to drop your fork on your hardtail but ok never mind, which was some what useful if I was changing the rear travel without dropping the rear end.The Northern Monkey wrote:Go try it then.... its your money!0 -
Theres a recent thread on here somewhere about geometry that should explain why it wouldn't work and yes it wouldn't work....Nicolai CC0
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Several things change when suspension compresses, wheelbase, bb height, effective chainstay length, distance from centre of gravity to front wheel and so on.
Your weight may well be shifted noticeably forwards.
Also, most full suss bikes pedal best at a range of sag, if you're past that then the pedalling performance could become very strange.
If the bike's suspension is designed to ramp up the spring rate as the travel increases, then it will be far less supple.
This is quite apart from the fact that reducing suspension length will gain you nothing in return.
Need I go on?0 -
what frame?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Doesn't that bike have two shock mounting positions, giving 120/160mm travel, and adjusting the spring rate accordingly, anyway?0
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yeehaamcgee wrote:Doesn't that bike have two shock mounting positions, giving 120/160mm travel, and adjusting the spring rate accordingly, anyway?
that is the fork.
the frame is 145-165mm travel
"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Techically this will probably work, yes. Why do it is a different matter altogether.A Flock of Birds
+ some other bikes.0 -
Well, if my memory serves me rightly (evidently it may not be), reducing the travel on that frame does not lower the ride height anything like as much.
In fact, just like before, I'm at a bit of a loss as to why you'd do so.0 -
Download Linkgae, and put in the parameters - you'll have your geo.0
