Rack options for Carrera TDF 2011

c16
c16 Posts: 9
edited August 2011 in Commuting general
Right I got one of these yesterday and what won it over the equivalent Btwin was the addition of rack/mudguard eyelets. Well after trying to fit a bikemate (generic aldi rack) I have found that it will not fit due to clearance issues with the rear sprocket and the design of the drop outs on the rear (pictures to follow).

Having a scout around today and the equivalent racks look to have the same or similar dropouts so I doubt they will fit either. Has anyone whose got one of these bikes been able to fit one with any success?

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Comments

  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    If your problem is interference between the bolt and the small sprocket, then you need a shorter bolt.
    Most people use the threads in the dropout, without any kind of nut. You need to have about 1-2mm of threaded bolt extending inside the dropout. Fine tune with washers.
  • c16
    c16 Posts: 9
    That's one of the problems but another is the fact that the chainstay design fouls up the fit to the outside of the frame as you can see from the pics I just upped it's really tight no way I could put the rack leg on the inside of the eyelet.
  • super_davo
    super_davo Posts: 1,228
    Looks like you've got the bolt on the wrong way round from the picture - it should have the allen head on the outside rather than the inside where it is fouling the cassette.

    I don't have a TDF but I've got 2 other bikes with panniers and they both mount that way.
  • c16
    c16 Posts: 9
    super_davo wrote:
    Looks like you've got the bolt on the wrong way round from the picture - it should have the allen head on the outside rather than the inside where it is fouling the cassette.

    I don't have a TDF but I've got 2 other bikes with panniers and they both mount that way.

    I can see what your saying but I only put it that way as an illustration, the bolt cannot go through the other way with the pannier stem in place as it is out of alignment with the hole due to the proximity of the rear droupout design.

    Putting the stem on the inside of the eyelet would leave no space for a nut and would fall off into the rear sprocket.
  • super_davo
    super_davo Posts: 1,228
    Why do you need a nut? Is your drop out not threaded?
    I fit mine at the bottom first, then at the top, as the bottom has no adjustment but the top does. That should sort your alignment issues.
  • super_davo
    super_davo Posts: 1,228
    Looking at your picture again you might need to file the pannier stay down a bit at the bottom to get it to fit. Looks fairly fat at the bottom under the eyelet so not surprised you're struggling.
  • c16
    c16 Posts: 9
    It doesn't matter which way around I fit it the droupout hinders everything tbh it's a bad design feature of the bike and they have not paid close enough attention to it. Even if I was to file away the metal section of the pannier leg the eyelet is not threaded well enough to not require a securing nut which then fouls the sprocket,
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    I see now.
    Replace the Allen bolt with a pan-head bolt and insert with the head on the inside.
    File off the offending part of the pannier.
    Use a washer and a Nylock nut on the outside.
    If you can fit a thin washer under the panhead, it will be better.

    If you want to use another kind of rack, take the bike and try it for fit. You have one with adjustable legs, these are a convenience for bike shops who only need one type for all bikes. Once fitted they never need adjusting so better to get a non-adjustable one that fits.
    You may find one with a stay that doesnt need filing.
  • I have this bike and have sucessfully fitted a standard bike hut rack to it.

    I had the same problem with the fairly stupid rear drop design and had to hacksaw an angle onto the bottom of the rack. Note that this may invalidate your warranty if you get it wrong - unless you have enough front to return it to the shop saying 'Dude, I bought this rack and noticed that someone's hacksawed it'.

    I also had an issue with the left hand rack support fouling the rear brake and had to add a short straight piece of metal to lift the bracket up and over the brake.

    If you had the bike assembled by the professionals at halfords I would also recommend checking your fastenings - in particular the brake cables, handlebars, stem, seatstem, seat and pedals. To be fair the bell was tightened down extremely well, so a big word up to the halfords crew for that.