QR Wheels & Disc Brakes - a lethal combo??
Comments
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I use 20mm axle forks and bolt up rear axles on my bikes :roll:
But surely the forward pitching forces when braking would counteract the the wheel coming out? I think some battle maths is in order
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Mongoose Teocali
Giant STP0
Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:0 -
One part of the theory is that the forces incrementally unscrew the QR. In practice though it just doesn't happen with a good skewer, correctky tightened and checked.0
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i had my front wheel come loose after fitting the front wheel for the first time after a car journey.
since then i find it hard to be 100% sure its right, for example alot of people say it should be really hard to close the qr, but this adds alot of tension on thw wheel and when spun in the air it rotates far less then if it where looser,
so i try to tighten mine so that rotation in the air is smooth but as tight as possible before it binds and reduces the free wheel spinning.
is that wrong?0 -
The QR nut should be adjusted so that when you start to close the lever you feel the force ramp up quickly as it is about 85-90 degrees from closed.
If your hubs are adjustable, adjust the bearings to suit.0 -
Only time I've had a QR loose is when I've been forgetful with checking or cack-handed with putting the wheel in (in fact, my back wheel was loose yesterday). I did hear about some bloke getting paralysed because his front wheel came out and he went over and broke his neck but, again, there's no evidence that this was anything other than a tragic accident. The lesson, kids, is to check before you ride and occasionally during a ride to make sure it's still solid.0
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Only issue I've found is the QR affects the position of the disc fractionally and the disc may be rubbing on a pad. I've got everything adjusted (i.e. calipers) so that they don't rub when it's done up well tight. Makes for a good indicator that I've not tightened it enough if it's rubbing.creamsodauk wrote:since then i find it hard to be 100% sure its right, for example alot of people say it should be really hard to close the qr, but this adds alot of tension on thw wheel and when spun in the air it rotates far less then if it where looser,
so i try to tighten mine so that rotation in the air is smooth but as tight as possible before it binds and reduces the free wheel spinning.
is that wrong?0 -
Fixed it for you.supersonic wrote:One part of the theory is that the forces incrementally unscrew the QR. In practice though it just doesn't happen with a SHIMANO skewer, correctky tightened and checked.0 -
Never happened with any of my skewers when correctly tightened from cheapo ones to bling crank bros ones.0
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It's usually the bling ones that are the problem I find. Shimano are the easiest and safest to use, and last longest.0
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Bling Hope on mine, work fine. Hope bling is good. Except the hubs, annoying as hell.
Stock cheapo QR worked okay. No bling though
Seriously though, the hope ones just have a brass clamp seat that seems to have less issues with grit, crud and wearing down. The cheapo that the bike came with was okay but seized up more and needed cleaning more to rid it of crud, but still did the basic job of clamping the wheel.0 -
Are you kidding me? My expereinces of Hope QRs is exactly the opposite of yours. The bastard things always gunked up, and kept grinding down and jamming. And when they weren't doing that, they were loosening themselves, or tightening themselves up so much I needed an extension bar to open the fu**ers.0
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I do have to use some additional leverage to release them, but the stock ones with the bike were the same. If that means they're tight, that's good.
I stick a smear of copper grease on the brass bit also which I think the Hope instructions mentioned, or maybe I'd just read that somewhere.
Either way, they work for me and my only other experience are the stock ones which seemed worse. Probably not the best but they're bling, so hey. The hubs I won't go near though!0 -
Brass should be self lubricating - which is why so many industrial applications have brass bushes.
I actually really like the ProII front hub, but I'm fed up of the noise of the rear ones.0 -
Hopes are VERY critical on you going past 90 degrees, if you dont they WILL open, if you do they wont. I've had them on mine for 5 years, never had one open yet and still work perfectly
As you say, once they are beynd 90 they are stiff to undo by handMarin Mount Vision 2005. Fox RL100/RP3. Hope Pro 2/Mavic XC717/DT rev. Cinders 2.1, XTR, Lots of bling
Cervelo S3 2011. Mavic Cosmic Carbonne SLE. RED. Q-rings, lots of bling and very light!0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:I actually really like the ProII front hub, but I'm fed up of the noise of the rear ones.
Pro 2 rear hubs are better than having a bell (and a nice choice of axle options) for people to know you are approching, but a shimano is better for clandestine activity
Personally I really don't the skinny QR skewers and even on rigids would prefer a 9mm full through axle the Fire Eye one is pretty good.-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
Mongoose Teocali
Giant STP0
Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:0 -
The only QR I've seen come loose while riding is a Hope rear oneyeehaamcgee wrote:Are you kidding me? My expereinces of Hope QRs is exactly the opposite of yours. The bastard things always gunked up, and kept grinding down and jamming. And when they weren't doing that, they were loosening themselves,or tightening themselves up so much I needed an extension bar to open the fu**ers.
Yep, got a mate with them and he battles to do them up and then open them.
When you need that much force to open/close them, it's hard to tell that they're closed properly. I had a Hope QR seatpost too, and that was pants. Looked nice, but was horrible to use.0 -
trooperk wrote:
with this setup the braking force is reverse and will push the axel againest the dropout and the wheel will never pop out during hard braking.bike-a-swan wrote:Cotic roadrat forks have the tabs on the front-
http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat
I've seen this mentioned a few times, and after thinking about it, there is a drawback to having the caliper on the front.
With a rear-facing caliper, when the brake is applied, the caliper is pushed against the back of the fork.
With a front-facing caliper, when the brake is applied, the caliper is pulled away from the front of the fork.
A badly attached (misthreaded, not tight enough, dodgy Al or Ti bolts) caliper could conceivably pull off the front of the fork under heavy braking. I don't really fancy that.0 -
Yes backwards; as for the article ... 99.9% of the world has nothing interesting then some fool invented the internet and gave them a voice.
Anyone spot "(Updated Jan 2006 with the first out-of court settlement)" so its a little old just like those picturesTrek Remedy 7
On-One Carbon 456 http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=128995190 -
Yes backwards; as for the article ... 99.9% of the world has nothing interesting then some fool invented the internet and gave them a voice.
Anyone spot "(Updated Jan 2006 with the first out-of court settlement)" so its a little old just like those picturesTrek Remedy 7
On-One Carbon 456 http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=128995190
