CAAD 8 - how to make it more comfortable?
JustinK
Posts: 2
I got a Cannondale CAAD 8 105 (2011) a while ago but I'm not too happy about it at the moment..
After 20 km rides I'm shaking all over almost can't feel my behind. If I ride in the evenings I have trouble sleeping and feel like my brain is buzzing still in the morning.
I have changed the tires to 25 mm Continental Gatorskins which are better than the original 23mm Schalbe Luganos it came with. I am using the recommended 6,5 bar (90psi) pressure. It feels too soft for my weight (83 kg) but I don't want put more pressure because of the increased vibration. Also the bike is very slow at the moment and even some granny bikes are going past me with ease.
Would some other tires help or a gel seat or carbon seatpost or what..? Am I screwed or do you gyus have any ideas?
After 20 km rides I'm shaking all over almost can't feel my behind. If I ride in the evenings I have trouble sleeping and feel like my brain is buzzing still in the morning.
I have changed the tires to 25 mm Continental Gatorskins which are better than the original 23mm Schalbe Luganos it came with. I am using the recommended 6,5 bar (90psi) pressure. It feels too soft for my weight (83 kg) but I don't want put more pressure because of the increased vibration. Also the bike is very slow at the moment and even some granny bikes are going past me with ease.
Would some other tires help or a gel seat or carbon seatpost or what..? Am I screwed or do you gyus have any ideas?
0
Comments
-
Riding wakes you up in some ways, so the sleeping problem won't be helped at all, unless you really tire youself while riding.
You could try a new saddle, and are you wearing bibs already? Or at least cycling specific clothing?
As far as getting passed by granny bikes, sounds like a problem more with your legs than with the bike. Any road bike will go fast if you have the power and technique behind it to push it.0 -
Well, thats an Aluminium frame for you!!!!0
-
JustinK wrote:It feels too soft for my weight (83 kg) but I don't want put more pressure because of the increased vibration.
Most of road bikes are designed with racing in mind and by definition are uncomfortable on most of roads, especially with pointless 23mm tyres.0 -
Barteos wrote:.Most of road bikes are designed with racing in mind and by definition are uncomfortable on most of roads, especially with pointless 23mm tyres.
Sorry, but thats rollocks, a properly fitted road bike, even with 23 mm tyres is as comfortable as anything, I've ridden my road bikes for 8 hours in a row, and not had a problem, and can even ride my TT bike for 4 hours without any serious issues.0 -
change it for a Synapse?
More seriously, I'd be looking at the saddle height and whether you're sitting on it properly - and perhaps changing the saddle. Perhaps also checking the rise on the bars - flip the stem over to give you a little bit of rise on it?
Your bike shop should be able to help you, given that you've spend best part of £1000 with them, so ask them for advice. They might be able to help you get comfortable using a turbo trainer and some time...
Good luck!Synapse Alloy 105 / Rock Lobster Tig Team Sl0 -
danowat wrote:Barteos wrote:.Most of road bikes are designed with racing in mind and by definition are uncomfortable on most of roads, especially with pointless 23mm tyres.
Sorry, but thats rollocks, a properly fitted road bike, even with 23 mm tyres is as comfortable as anything, I've ridden my road bikes for 8 hours in a row, and not had a problem, and can even ride my TT bike for 4 hours without any serious issues.
I'm not talking about the fit, but the ability (or lack of it) of narrow tyres and stiff frames to effectively absorb the shocks of the road.
Most of people simply don't ask many questions and get used to certain level of discomfort, as they falsely assiociate it with speed and efficiency, especially as they don't have anything to compare it to.
Just because you're comfortable, doesn't mean that others feel the same.
People come in all shapes weights and sizes and they cycle on various roads, yet they all use bikes with the same tyre size, within 2mm and 10-20PSI, like clones.
Anyway, JustinK isn't imagining his discomfort, is he?0 -
If you have just recently started cycling more regularly (say within the last few weeks) then it might just be a case of having to put up with a bit of discomfort until your arse toughens up a bit.
A proper pair of cycling shorts will make a difference.
Perhaps double wrap the bars or try the gel inserts that you attach to the bars before wrapping with tape. A carbon seatpost will help a bit as could a change in saddle. Saddles are about personal preference though, what one person recommends might be suitable for your needs.
Also check out how you are sitting on the bike - you dont want to have all your weight on the saddle but also distributed between your legs and arms too. It is easier send than done but try and relax too that will make a noticeable improvement.0 -
Keith1983 wrote:Barteos wrote:yet they all use bikes with the same tyre size, within 2mm and 10-20PSI, like clones.
Do you not think that alot of time, money, effort and knowledge has gone into developing these tyres? The majority of people don't use these by accident.
Manufacturers invest their resources in products that are most likely to sell and they rely on fascination with a pro scene, preconceptions and mental lazyness among the consumers.
The reason why you see mostly 23mm tyres on almost every road bike on the shop floor is that they are the best compromise... for the manufacturers.0 -
the CAAD series of frames are race orientated in their geometry aren't they? Although race frames are not by definition uncomfortable, they are designed for speed and efficiency rather than sitting up and rolling along or for the daily commute. It's hard to know what to suggest, I would certainly put more than 90psi in the tyres, I am 80kg and I have my tyres at around 110-120psi, however that will certainly increase road buzz. As someone above has pointed out, that's aluminium frames for you! Perhaps you should have gone for a bike with a more relaxed, sportive orientated geometry or a hybrid or something?Do not write below this line. Office use only.0
-
Barteos wrote:Keith1983 wrote:Barteos wrote:yet they all use bikes with the same tyre size, within 2mm and 10-20PSI, like clones.
Do you not think that alot of time, money, effort and knowledge has gone into developing these tyres? The majority of people don't use these by accident.
Manufacturers invest their resources in products that are most likely to sell and they rely on fascination with a pro scene, preconceptions and mental lazyness among the consumers.
The reason why you see mostly 23mm tyres on almost every road bike on the shop floor is that they are the best compromise... for the manufacturers.
I wouldn't say that about the second part, per say. I've tried both sizes, as well as MTBing for quite a while, and notice almost no difference between 23 and 25mm tires. 23 offer a slight weight savings, so rotate faster, and for me are generally faster on the generally smooth roads. I wouldn't say that people are obsessed with the pro scene either, alot of people who have bikes havn't even watched a pro race before, or even knew the names of them, and they still like the tires!0 -
MountainMonster wrote:Barteos wrote:Keith1983 wrote:Barteos wrote:yet they all use bikes with the same tyre size, within 2mm and 10-20PSI, like clones.
Do you not think that alot of time, money, effort and knowledge has gone into developing these tyres? The majority of people don't use these by accident.
Manufacturers invest their resources in products that are most likely to sell and they rely on fascination with a pro scene, preconceptions and mental lazyness among the consumers.
The reason why you see mostly 23mm tyres on almost every road bike on the shop floor is that they are the best compromise... for the manufacturers.
I wouldn't say that about the second part, per say. I've tried both sizes, as well as MTBing for quite a while, and notice almost no difference between 23 and 25mm tires. 23 offer a slight weight savings, so rotate faster, and for me are generally faster on the generally smooth roads. I wouldn't say that people are obsessed with the pro scene either, alot of people who have bikes havn't even watched a pro race before, or even knew the names of them, and they still like the tires!
There was a debate about tyre width somewhere here last week and the upshot seemed to be that at any given pressure, wider tyres have lower rolling resistance because the casing deforms less, however narrower tyres can be inflated to higher pressures and as pressure increases, RR drops. However inflation pressure beyond a certain point actually slows you down in the real world as the tyre loses its ability to absorb road imperfections and effectively bounces back off little bumps in the road. On the other hand, wider tyres are heavier and are constructed for durability. But narrower tyres offer an aerodynamic benefit... sol ultimately who knows what is best. I know that I have ridden on 700x19c and 700x23c and have noticed little difference....Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
Headhuunter wrote:MountainMonster wrote:Barteos wrote:Keith1983 wrote:Barteos wrote:yet they all use bikes with the same tyre size, within 2mm and 10-20PSI, like clones.
Do you not think that alot of time, money, effort and knowledge has gone into developing these tyres? The majority of people don't use these by accident.
Manufacturers invest their resources in products that are most likely to sell and they rely on fascination with a pro scene, preconceptions and mental lazyness among the consumers.
The reason why you see mostly 23mm tyres on almost every road bike on the shop floor is that they are the best compromise... for the manufacturers.
I wouldn't say that about the second part, per say. I've tried both sizes, as well as MTBing for quite a while, and notice almost no difference between 23 and 25mm tires. 23 offer a slight weight savings, so rotate faster, and for me are generally faster on the generally smooth roads. I wouldn't say that people are obsessed with the pro scene either, alot of people who have bikes havn't even watched a pro race before, or even knew the names of them, and they still like the tires!
There was a debate about tyre width somewhere here last week and the upshot seemed to be that at any given pressure, wider tyres have lower rolling resistance because the casing deforms less, however narrower tyres can be inflated to higher pressures and as pressure increases, RR drops. However inflation pressure beyond a certain point actually slows you down in the real world as the tyre loses its ability to absorb road imperfections and effectively bounces back off little bumps in the road. On the other hand, wider tyres are heavier and are constructed for durability. But narrower tyres offer an aerodynamic benefit... sol ultimately who knows what is best. I know that I have ridden on 700x19c and 700x23c and have noticed little difference....
Very well said, it all comes down to preferences in a way. Although i'd assume that there is a reason most pros ride 23mm tires.0 -
The CAAD8 is already a more relaxed bike than the CAAD9, for example. I think it's probably a combination of not being used to the position, building up cycling strength and your contact points on the bike.
Make sure you're wearing decent cycling specific gloves/mitts (with padding on the palm to protect your nerves) and I'd really recommend padded cycling shorts. If that doesn't help, go back to the shop where you bought the bike and ask them to take a look at your fitting on it. Not necessarily the size of the bike itself but more your saddle fore/aft/height position and stem height/length.0 -
JustinK wrote:Also the bike is very slow at the moment and even some granny bikes are going past me with ease.CAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!0
-
How many miles are you doing a week?
Do you adjust your weight distribution on the bike when you go over rough sections of road?
Decent shorts?
I've done plenty of long rides on an aluminium bike and not suffered any more than my CF bike, if you do plenty of miles you get used to it.
After 20km you should really only just have warmed your legs up0 -
carbon seat post should help and carbon bars, but to be honest I wouldnt go near carbon bars after seeing someones bars snap on a club ride. i noticed that rs80 and dura ace wheels help soak up road buzz on an ali frame but that may be a bigger spend than you intended.0
-
At the OP - from the info you have given you sound like you have never ridden a road bike before, and as such you are experiencing some new sensations which are unpleasant, without the positive feelings that a good road ride can provide.
Are you wearing padded bib-shorts? If not get some asap.
Gel mitts and a carbon seat post should help, and getting gel inserts under your bar tape will also be beneficial.
Getting a new saddle may help but there are lots of different ones out there and you may have to try a few before you get one that's comfortable.
20km is not a particularly long distance, and at the pace you suggest you are riding could mean you are soaking up every bump and undulation in the road. As you get fitter you should speed up and sometimes speed means that the tyre 'floats' over the bumps and causes less vibration - you will also enjoy the adrenalin of speed more.
Stick with it and you will soon be enjoying the fitness and adrenalin benefits of your bike0 -
JustinK wrote:I got a Cannondale CAAD 8 105 (2011) a while ago but I'm not too happy about it at the moment..
After 20 km rides I'm shaking all over almost can't feel my behind. If I ride in the evenings I have trouble sleeping and feel like my brain is buzzing still in the morning.
I have changed the tires to 25 mm Continental Gatorskins which are better than the original 23mm Schalbe Luganos it came with. I am using the recommended 6,5 bar (90psi) pressure. It feels too soft for my weight (83 kg) but I don't want put more pressure because of the increased vibration. Also the bike is very slow at the moment and even some granny bikes are going past me with ease.
Would some other tires help or a gel seat or carbon seatpost or what..? Am I screwed or do you gyus have any ideas?
First things first: the bike will only go as fast (or slow) as you make it go!
Tell us more about your road cycling history?
I have a CAAD8 and find it generally pleasant and smooth enough to ride regularly on 60 plus mile rides with 23 tyres pumped to 110psi. Granted, certain short sections of tarmac do make things uncomfortable, only for a matter of seconds though.
As others have suggested, the best place to start looking for an improvement, is the set up of the bike, in terms of saddle position and stem; get a fitting, to ensure the bike is fitting you correctly. This may help you relax on the bike, and get more out of it.
Failing that, stop doing 20km rides over cobbles.Plymouthsteve for councillor!!0