Is a chain guide on a 1x9 really needed?

SLX01
SLX01 Posts: 338
edited July 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
I'm thinking of going down the 1x9 route and notice most seem to run a chain guide. Why is this needed when I ride on the middle ring on a triple the chain doesn't fall off? Is this required to make it work or is it just being cautious?

Comments

  • Andy B
    Andy B Posts: 8,115
    on a triple the chain is stopped from dropping off by the front mech and the outer chainring

    I run an upper chain guide as I prefer my necessary and obvious intact and not impaled on my stem or top tube
    2385861000_d125abe796_m.jpg
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    and is you still have issues with the chain jumping off a bottom roller is good.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • SLX01
    SLX01 Posts: 338
    Andy B wrote:
    on a triple the chain is stopped from dropping off by the front mech and the outer chainring

    I run an upper chain guide as I prefer my necessary and obvious intact and not impaled on my stem or top tube

    It never occured to me that the front mech acts as a chain guide on a triple, its a bit obvious now you mention it! Thanks
  • gtd.
    gtd. Posts: 626
    A front mech can be used as a simple chain guide.

    Just adjust the L Stop to place the cage so it doesn't rub
    Mountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
    Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
    Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er
  • My 1x9 doesn't need one, it's never come off. The old GT when it was a 1x7 did because I had revoshifters, and when you go over the top of a hill and start picking up speed it was too easy with a gripshift to dump from lowest to highest gear in one move. Thumb shifters take more time so there isn't the same instant jump(and the chainline was out cos of a wrong sized BB so that didn't help)
    I'd advise to just make sure your chainline is correct, then try it. If it jumps then buy a chainguide. Superstar do a decent one for external BB's, or seat tube mounted ones(but annoyingly not in 28.6mm....just as well I don't need one then eh?!)
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    lvquestpaddler, sounds like you still have your front mech on then. Which is a chainguide.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    I don't read it as that I must say. Wouldn't advocate riding without one though. The chance of it coming off in rough terrain is pretty high and you'll never pedal it back on like you can with a triple. I use a Superstar one, works perfectly. The Paul components ones is very neat, but more expensive.
  • Yeeha the 1x9 doesn't have the mech, but I did install it back on the 1x7 and put the 22t ring back on for the Corrieyairack cos 36/28 isn't low enough to get a FB like me up a mountain(neither was 22/28 as it turns out!). It can stay on and it's cured the need for a chainguide obviously, still haven't managed to set the H screw to stop it overshifting and dumping the chain off the 36t though
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Ah, I see what you mean now. I thought you were talking about shifting the front on the other bike.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I couldn't keep the chain on the front of my commuter running 1x9 and a Shimano Saint single speed specific front ring without using an old front mech (Roadie are lighter than MTB) as a guide, loved to jump off during upshifts. Some people seem to get away with it, others not, clearly there are lots of variables (chain, cassette, mech, shifter etc etc).

    My daughter runs a bash and an N-gear on her 1x9 and has no chain issues.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.