carbon frame
radiation man
Posts: 446
i already have a alu trek 1.5 road bike, and was thinking of getting a carbon frame and building it up myself, will the carbon frame be much better or should i just upgrade the 1.5
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Comments
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depends what carbon frame you get, I guess....0
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Depends what your trying to acheive buy the upgrade. Carbon (in general) gives a smoother more comfortable ride - and tends to be lighter (although not massivley)
Nothing wrong with just wanting a carbon frame for the hell of it - or you like the look of it. I actually think the geometry and fit of the frame will determine if its 'better' or will make you indirectly faster0 -
radiation man wrote:i already have a alu trek 1.5 road bike, and was thinking of getting a carbon frame and building it up myself, will the carbon frame be much better or should i just upgrade the 1.5
I also had a Trek 1.5 (still do as a winter and turbo bike) and bought an Italian carbon frame as a treat not thinking I'd notice the difference with my lowly skill level. I bought the frame mail order from a well known stockist and got the LBS to build it up to my specification. The first time I rode it I could tell the difference. I had a top end group set that has still not dropped the chain whereas my Trek will drop the chain around 3 times a ride. I enjoyed the process so much (even though the LBS did the actual fettling) I intend doing it again when I retire in 3.5 years but this time with a top end frame.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0 -
Sounds like your Trek is just out of adjustment - it should be possible to get it to work properly.0
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radiation man wrote:i already have a alu trek 1.5 road bike, and was thinking of getting a carbon frame and building it up myself, will the carbon frame be much better or should i just upgrade the 1.5
Bought a secondhand Ribble Sportive frame (in classifieds), new cables and swopped everything.
Now have a lighter bike, more 'bling', it allows me to ride hills faster, accelerates better and is noticeably better all round. It feels like a new and much better bike.
Cons - not all components will necessarily fit. I was lucky that by buying secondhand, it came with forks, headset, seat post and seat clamp. The only thing other than the cables I needed to buy was a braze on front mech, otherwise my 'cheap' upgrade would have been much more expensive.Stumpjumper FSR 09/10 Pro Carbon, Genesis Vapour CX20 ('17)Carbon, Rose Xeon CW3000 '14, Raleigh R50
http://www.visiontrack.com0 -
thescouselander wrote:Sounds like your Trek is just out of adjustment - it should be possible to get it to work properly.
I agree, just sounds like it needs adjustment. I've got a lowly Apollo framed bike (very basic Halfords job) with Shimano 2200 (Shimano's absolute lowest road groupset) and it NEVER drops the chain...Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
I've tried adjusting the front derailleur on the Trek without success. Took it to the LBS for a service and for them to look at the front derailleur. during an abandoned ride where it had dropped the chain 3 times It still drops the chain. It became a bit of a Jonah for me and made me reluctant to go out through fear of wasting most of my time getting on and off the bike to put the chain back on. One day I'll change the groupset on it but as it is it very rarely ventures out. I use the Basso as much as I can.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0
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When the chain drops, it it onto the BB side or crank side?
If it is on the BB side, you could try a chain watcher?
I am in Reading and would be more than happy to look at it for you.
Matt0 -
Really just sounds like yuo need to sort out the limiter screws...Do not write below this line. Office use only.0
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It's a problem with the front derailleur. If I adjust it to stop the chain dropping off the crank side it will drop off the BB side on the way down and vice versa. My Trek is a 2010 model with Tiagra shifters so I'm surprised it's suffering as it is. The LBS has had it and they built the Basso for me so I have total faith in them, but they can't solve the problem by use of the limiter screws either. I'm reluctant to just buy a new front derailleur so will look to buy a decent groupset for it later in the year. In the meantime the weather is half decent other than the bloody wind meaning I can ride the Basso all the time. It does look over the top commuting on it though.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0
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You can get little used derailleurs on Ebay for buttons. Seems a bit wierd to buy an entire groupset when it is mechanically impossible for the problem not to be solved by a new derailleur! Not that it doesn't seem impossible that the problem can't be solved with the existing one. You should be able to set the front mech so that it is fixed on one ring - therefore it should be possible to open up the limits so that it can only move between two. As long as the alignment and limits are correct it should work.Faster than a tent.......0
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I've moved to the thought of upgrading the groupset as I'm quite taken with the SRAM stuff on the Basso. It's far more comfortable for me than the Shimano hoods on the Trek. I've got a day off today so I may have another crack at it while it's on the turbo.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0