Campagnolo power torque crank removal tool

furrag
furrag Posts: 481
edited October 2013 in Workshop
Anyone had any luck with sourcing a cheaper gear puller to remove the non-drive side crank arm and also the bearings?

This one looks like it has thin enough jaws, but I was hoping someone could point to a definite cheaper alternative.

Comments

  • blackhands
    blackhands Posts: 950
    What - cheaper than £8 ??

    It looks a bit industrial and may f-ck up the chainset.
  • furrag
    furrag Posts: 481
    Cheers for the reply. It's so frustrating finding out info about this.

    What tool is £8?

    To remove power torque cranks (which are different to UT), you need a gear puller (I'm hoping to find out what size) and the below metal 14mm plug (an extortianate £20!) with lips which allows the axle of the gear puller to provide leverage while the jaws extract the non-drive side crank.

    24674.jpg
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    I don't think that tool would be able to get under the edge of the bearing - compare with the profile of the Park Tool CBP3:

    http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Park%20Tool-Par ... _36697.htm
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • furrag
    furrag Posts: 481
    That's the Ultra-torque bearing removal, and the spindle length on the UT is different to the PT, so the gear-pullers reach isn't compatible (or so I've read).

    I don't want to get under the bearing with the gear puller. I just want to get the non-drive side crank off, and there's a good 1cm gap between the power torque cup and crank arm owing to the rubber seal.

    The lack of specific information from Campagnolo is very disappointing.
  • rjl6789
    rjl6789 Posts: 31
    I struggled trying to bodge it off using a pound coin to plug the hole and a gear puller I picked up from my local motorist centre (like this: http://cpc.farnell.com/draper-tools/139 ... dp/SI14045) for £15

    No joy

    Eventually stumped up the £20 for the official campy bit of metal as pictured in Furrag's post. With the correct tools the left crank was a p.o.p to remove.

    So £35 down, some more tools in my toolbox. Not that bad - and certainly not as bad as if I'd stumped up for this: http://www.i-ride.co.uk/cyclus/crankset ... ranks.html
  • whereisthurso
    whereisthurso Posts: 187
    Did you ever buy and try that ebay gear puller? This power torque system is a nightmare to service!

    What did you use instead of the capagnolo plug type bit? Cheers
  • mattythemod
    mattythemod Posts: 289
    Well just about to purchase a new Campag groupset that has powertorque cups and chainset and hearing the baove concerns me slightly ...has anyone found a similar tool to the Park one at a cheaper price and got any other advice or feedback they can offer on the powertorque system .
  • mattythemod
    mattythemod Posts: 289
    anyone ?
  • whereisthurso
    whereisthurso Posts: 187
    Buy dura ace instead. I like my campagnolo stuff but it's a pain and very costly to fix in comparison. Wouldn't pay the premium for it again. No help whatsoever probably but I'm afraid there isn't a cheap solution as far as I'm aware.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Ribble have the 20 quid plugs for £6: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... Googlebase

    This puller is cheaper - but alloy only: http://www.parker-international.co.uk/2 ... n=pid20410
  • mattythemod
    mattythemod Posts: 289
    g00se wrote:
    Ribble have the 20 quid plugs for £6: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... Googlebase

    This puller is cheaper - but alloy only: http://www.parker-international.co.uk/2 ... n=pid20410


    So how would you remove the Carbon cranks ?

    Have seen some standard gear/bearing pullers like mentioned eariler in this thread for £10 plus that should work with that plug .
  • rjl6789
    rjl6789 Posts: 31
    Cheapo puller and:
    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 5000000000

    to protect the carbon.

    A bearing puller is a bearing puller. I can't see how one can be "alloy only"
  • mattythemod
    mattythemod Posts: 289
    rjl6789 wrote:
    Cheapo puller and:
    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 5000000000

    to protect the carbon.

    A bearing puller is a bearing puller. I can't see how one can be "alloy only"

    Only Campag would charge £1.56 for a bit of card that many of us could cut out ourselves - LOL .
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    mattythemod wrote:
    rjl6789 wrote:
    Cheapo puller and:
    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 5000000000

    to protect the carbon.

    A bearing puller is a bearing puller. I can't see how one can be "alloy only"

    Only Campag would charge £1.56 for a bit of card that many of us could cut out ourselves - LOL .

    No. That's the ribble discounted price. RRP is a tenner :)

    As for a puller being alloy only. I don't know why it wouldn't work. but looking at the two types in the images on this page: http://www.parktool.com/product/campagn ... -set-cbp-5

    It looks like the alloy and carbon cranks are different shapes in profile so maybe the fixed shape of that puller won't fit over the carbon one (which would be a dumb design move)?
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Ah-ha! It's all here:

    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... wer-torque

    it looks like:

    carbon power torque crankarm: the underside is flat and you need a puller plus cardboard to protect the finish.

    alloy power torque crankarm: the underside is scalloped so you need a puller or a sleeve to fit the profile shape properly.

    cbp5-armshapes.jpg

    park specific Re the different spindle sizes of ultra torque and power torque - for power torque, you use an ultratorque puller with an adaptor to reach the bearing.

    cbp5_bearingpuller-adjust.jpg

    What a palava.
  • mattythemod
    mattythemod Posts: 289
    Well the above should put me off but it wont !

    I can live with £6 for the plug and £15 for some pullers and i suspect most of us could make something better than that bit of card maybe with some old inner tubes as a sheath over the back of the carbon cranks .
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Well I was drooling over the shiny alloy Campag chainsets at the cycle show, but since I like to do my own fettling, this sort of pantomime puts me right off!
  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    Yeah but come on, how often are you going to have to do this? Not very surely ......
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The best power-torque tools are made by cyclus. They are very expensive though but the quality of the tools means that no damage will ever come to your carnak arms or bearings.

    You don't buy campag cranks for user serviceability. you buy them because they;
    1) look fab
    2) have low Q factors,
    3) best chainring known to man
    4) lighter than the competetors - my veloce cranks +BB are lighter ultegra +BB
    5) it's got campagnolo on it

    So with the money you would save buy buying veloce cranks over ultergra say you can buy all the proper tools to serivce them rather than trying to the cheapest and probably a poorer tool.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • majormantra
    majormantra Posts: 2,094
    Sums it up well:

    http://bikehugger.com/post/view/campagn ... ue-cranks/
  • hugo15
    hugo15 Posts: 1,101
    Hmmm........ I have a Chorus UT chainset. Fitted in 2010 and been through 2 sets of bearings in as many years. Cleaned the bike at the weekend and there is sideways play in the cranks again. Looks like another set of new bearing is required. Crap design IMHO.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Try a seond wavy washer if play persists. Also check BB shell width. A BB shim could also work if the the play is significant. Shim down to 0.7mm are easily available.

    Ultra torque works quite well and every problem has an easy solution.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    For UT you need this shim kit http://roguemechanic.bigcartel.com/prod ... e-shim-kit :D
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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  • hugo15
    hugo15 Posts: 1,101
    drlodge wrote:
    For UT you need this shim kit http://roguemechanic.bigcartel.com/prod ... e-shim-kit :D

    Interesting. Have you used them?

    I was actually wondering if the cause was due to the bottom bracket needing facing as I did notice that when I turned the cracks round there was a point where the outer chain ring was closer to the cage on the front mech as if it wasn't going round straight (this was before the play in bearing started).

    Should also add that there is no play initially but that it develops after around 1500 to 2000 miles, which isn't a lot for a set of bearings IMHO.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Well a BB shell shoulod be faced of before instyallation of this kind of system for the first time as you will potentially reduce bearing life if you don't. UT is not a bad system it just relies on the BB shell being within a tight range of width for the pre-load to work.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • bjl
    bjl Posts: 353
    Does anyone know the size of the two diameters on the plug tool, think I will make my own.
  • majormantra
    majormantra Posts: 2,094
    Sorry to bump this old thread, but I was wondering if anyone had come up with any good substitutes for the ridiculously expensive plug tool?

    I've got a cheapo puller off ebay but my attempts at bodging things with assorted sockets have thus far failed. I don't really want to buy the plug since I'm removing the chainset for good.
  • majormantra
    majormantra Posts: 2,094
    And can I just say for the 'Record' (geddit?) - Campag is dead to me.
  • majormantra
    majormantra Posts: 2,094
    Right, in the end, I successfully removed the crank using the ebay puller, a pound coin, a 16mm socket, and an old crank bolt. So it IS possible without giving Campag any money. It was touch and go as to whether I was going to snap the puller so I wouldn't want to do this with any frequency. I'm selling the cranks though, so not an issue.


    OVER AND OUT.

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