Can frames wear out?
dot1
Posts: 538
This is purely a non-research/I've been wondering question, but can you wear a hard tail frame out? Assuming that the frame doesn't get dented or bent, if a hard tail is ridden over some gnarly, rocky trails regularly, will the material's properties decline and affect the attributes of the frame? (how flexy/stiff it is and responsive it is) Obviously FS frames have the rear sus to take the vast majority of the sting out of impacts and reduce the abuse on the frame, but with a HT all the force goes directly into the alu/steel/CF and over a period of time, would it affect how the frame handles and responds?
Has anyone had a frame that they've hammered over a long time and noticed a difference in the frame's ability to absorb impacts?
Has anyone had a frame that they've hammered over a long time and noticed a difference in the frame's ability to absorb impacts?
Trek Remedy 7 2009
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Giant Defy 5 2012
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yes. they can were out.
they normally fail somewhere."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Aluminium frames are probably the ones that will last the longest, so long as you don't buckle or bend them in any way.
Steel frames require annual rust proofing to prevent internal corrosion.
Ti frames are known to crack and fail around the welds (although it can depend how good the original assembly was).
Carbon frames can get damaged and crack. Although such damage may write off an alu frame.
But you tend to find that frames become obsolete before wearing out. Lack of disc mounts, aheadsets and so on. The latest is BB30 and other pushfit bearing designs, these may kill off the traditional screw in bottom bracket.0 -
But whether it gets damaged before it gets outdated is another story.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Aluminium usually lasts the shortest - it has no fatigue limit, so even the smallest flexing adds up over time.0
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gilesjuk wrote:Steel frames require annual rust proofing to prevent internal corrosion.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
gilesjuk wrote:The latest is BB30 and other pushfit bearing designs, these may kill off the traditional screw in bottom bracket.0
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How do frames die?
Crash damage (all materials)
Chain unshipping and taking a hole out of the chainstay (all materials)
Poorly adjusted headset damaging the races (internal headsets) or ovaling the head tube (traditional headsets) and again all materials
Bottom brackets getting stuck in (all materials really).
Fatigue cracks on joins - as a result of bad design or build (all materials)
Fatigue failure of tubes - Aluminium as a material is the lost likely for this, but then aluminium bikes are usually overbuilt to compensate. Steel, titanium and even carbon can suffer - it depends on the design and build of the material and the cyclic stresses it is subjected to.
Rusting through - hello steel! But it takes ages. The frame will usually look really manky before it is significantly weakened.
There may be a slightly noticeable increase in flex just before a tube or join breaks but usually the first you know is a crack you can see. Then a bigger crack you can feel as teh crack opens and shuts). Bigger than a crack is a properly broken frame and you can definitely feel that!0 -
alan sherman wrote:How do frames die?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
gilesjuk wrote:Aluminium frames are probably the ones that will last the longest, so long as you don't buckle or bend them in any way.
Steel frames require annual rust proofing to prevent internal corrosion.
Ti frames are known to crack and fail around the welds (although it can depend how good the original assembly was).
Carbon frames can get damaged and crack. Although such damage may write off an alu frame.
But you tend to find that frames become obsolete before wearing out. Lack of disc mounts, aheadsets and so on. The latest is BB30 and other pushfit bearing designs, these may kill off the traditional screw in bottom bracket.XC: Giant Anthem X
Fun: Yeti SB66
Road: Litespeed C1, Cannondale Supersix Evo, Cervelo R5
Trainer: Bianchi via Nirone
Hack: GT hardtail with Schwalbe City Jets0 -
What sort of a timescale are we talking about here? Pour exemple, I have a Boardman frame, and assuming I hammered it say a few times a week, presuming it doesn't crack/bend/get dented, how long would it take for the fatigue to make a noticeable difference to the frame's performance? Or would it not be noticable to a mere mortal and only lab testing/materials guru's be able to notice? I know it's purely circumstantial as it would depend on the trails, but are we talking 2 years? 10 years? Even longer?Trek Remedy 7 2009
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gilesjuk wrote:Aluminium frames are probably the ones that will last the longest, so long as you don't buckle or bend them in any way.
Steel frames require annual rust proofing to prevent internal corrosion.
Ti frames are known to crack and fail around the welds (although it can depend how good the original assembly was).
Carbon frames can get damaged and crack. Although such damage may write off an alu frame.
But you tend to find that frames become obsolete before wearing out. Lack of disc mounts, aheadsets and so on. The latest is BB30 and other pushfit bearing designs, these may kill off the traditional screw in bottom bracket.
Uh, someone needs to brush up on their materials engineering.How would I write my own epitaph? With a crayon - I'm not allowed anything I can sharpen to a sustainable point.
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed herein are worth exactly what you paid for them.0 -
cooldad wrote:alan sherman wrote:How do frames die?
That's the second time I've heard that quoted today. Fantastic!Rock Lobster 853, Trek 1200 and a very old, tired and loved Apollo Javelin.0 -
They do make BMX's out of steel for a good reason, and I have yet to see a 14 year old paperkid applying waxoyl to his bmx yet !
Makes me want a Ragley Blue Pig now0 -
They make BMXs out of alu too lol. And even seen carbon fibre ones.0
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Dot 1, FYI I had a Cannondale CAAD 6 MTB 2001 from new, it had a really weedy looking rear triangle, that gave me 10 years of abuse I sold it last year and as far as I know it is still going strong and TBH Cannondales had a rep for failing (Carck"n"fail-Cannondale) so I am sure you will be fine, and I didn't notice any change in the bikes feel either.I'm not old I'm Retro0
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J L wrote:Dot 1, FYI I had a Cannondale CAAD 6 MTB 2001 from new, it had a really weedy looking rear triangle, that gave me 10 years of abuse I sold it last year and as far as I know it is still going strong and TBH Cannondales had a rep for failing (Carck"n"fail-Cannondale) so I am sure you will be fine, and I didn't notice any change in the bikes feel either.
Likewise, I had a 1992 Fisher Al-1 (Fisher became Gary Fisher, became part of Trek). Got hammered for most of the 16 years I had it. And as SS pointed out, Aluminium frames are the ones most likely to suffer fatigue failures, so unless you've got a very badly designed bike (which I doubt) it's unlikely that pure fatigue will be the failure mode. If you're unlucky, maybe a poor weld or bad heat treatment would hasten it along, but I definitely wouldn't let it keep you awake at night....Intense Carbine SL
"Chinarello"
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Off to pastures new:
CELL Team Pro
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1992 Fisher Al-1
1990 Raleigh Mirage
1988 Cloria Italian MTB0 -
Bought new in 1996:
I am a bit paranoid about metal fatigue and the welds etc but the paint shows no tell-tale signs of anything untoward.0 -
I'm not concerned about the frame failing or welds cracking or anything, I'm just curious from a material properties point of view.Trek Remedy 7 2009
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supersonic wrote:They make BMXs out of alu too lol. And even seen carbon fibre ones.
I know and I have a soft spot for the redline's :oops: However I was referring to freestyle ones like you'll find over a dirt jumping spot or skatepark, seeing as they must get the toughest life of any bike going if used to their potential.0 -
.blitz wrote:Bought new in 1996:
I am a bit paranoid about metal fatigue and the welds etc but the paint shows no tell-tale signs of anything untoward.
Wouldn't that frame just die of embarrassment?
Seriously though, aren't the elastomers like concrete now?0 -
gilesjuk wrote:Aluminium frames are probably the ones that will last the longest, so long as you don't buckle or bend them in any way.gilesjuk wrote:Steel frames require annual rust proofing to prevent internal corrosion.You only need two tools: WD40 and Duck Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the tape.0 -
meesterbond wrote:Wouldn't that frame just die of embarrassment?
In 2005 I replaced the elastomers with some springs (IIRC they were from Rapid Descent) but they never worked too well with the original damper units so I bought a box of OEM elastomers from CVI. I have seven sets left which should last me until 2025 or thereabouts.
The elastomers don't work when the temperature is close to freezing but when used in conjunction with big modern tyres the suspension is pretty good; of course you can't just plough through obstacles like you can with a 140mm trail bike but the flipside is that it is very nimble and agile (especially through Cannock's closely-packed trees) and the front end has just enough travel to take the buzz out of the trail. The back end is as stiff as any hardtail and suffers from none of the mush, excess baggage and geometry changes associated with a longer travel FS bike.0 -
I think full sus frames wear out. There are so many moving parts that eventually the threads go.0
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Nothing wrong with a good old Proflex0