Rear Derailleur not working.
Welsh_Tom
Posts: 571
Bike all working fine at ride. Put the bike in the car, (wheels off) got home, put wheels back on, and the rear Derailleur would not work.
If you start it on cog #1 (#10 speed) as soon as you turn the chank it jumps to cog #2, you can then change gears up as far as cog #9, you can push the Derailleur to help it into cog #10, but it will not go back down the gears.
If you leave it at cog #9 you can change back down to cog #3
I have no idea what I have done. Any help welcome
If you start it on cog #1 (#10 speed) as soon as you turn the chank it jumps to cog #2, you can then change gears up as far as cog #9, you can push the Derailleur to help it into cog #10, but it will not go back down the gears.
If you leave it at cog #9 you can change back down to cog #3
I have no idea what I have done. Any help welcome
0
Comments
-
Not knocked and bent the mech/hanger have you? Check is straight.0
-
Is it SRAM?
Thats EXACTLY the problem I had when the cables started to stretch.
Its an absoloute pain in the fricking arse to get it spot on. sorry I can't be much more help, No idea how mine works. Not touching it thats for sure!0 -
supersonic wrote:Not knocked and bent the mech/hanger have you? Check is straight.
I hit a few rocks but its as staight as a dye.The Northern Monkey wrote:Is it SRAM?
Thats EXACTLY the problem I had when the cables started to stretch.
Its an absoloute pain in the fricking ars* to get it spot on. sorry I can't be much more help, No idea how mine works. Not touching it thats for sure!
Yes Sram,
I remember you saying.
I have tryed pulling some cable through, and letting some out, its does not fix it0 -
You need to reindex it. Park Tools has a good guide.
Make sure the cables are clean and smooth.0 -
check the cables all the way down the bike carefully. something similar niggled me the other day; in the car the slack cable had risen out of the guide and then got caught on the outer - sticking proud of the boss when i stuck the wheel in, difficult to describe in words, but check the cables from lever to mech: if there was no impact this shouldn't happen suddenly so there will be a clear reason0
-
supersonic wrote:You need to reindex it. Park Tools has a good guide.
Make sure the cables are clean and smooth.
It was till I fra'd (I can not spell it and can not find the right spelling :oops: ) it a little on the end :oops:
Will try to reindex, ThanksLakesman wrote:check the cables all the way down the bike carefully. something similar niggled me the other day; in the car the slack cable had risen out of the guide and then got caught on the outer - sticking proud of the boss when i stuck the wheel in, difficult to describe in words, but check the cables from lever to mech: if there was no impact this shouldn't happen suddenly so there will be a clear reason
The cable is mosty inside the tube :? But I can not find anywhere, where it looks out of place0 -
tryed indexing them, they go up the gears but not back down0
-
cable tension too tight or a sticking cable..... also have you got the B-tensioner set correctly (almost touching the largest sprocket when shifted up to that gear).0
-
It does sound like a sticking cable a clean and lube (on park tools somewhere) shoud improve things . what mech and shifter combo are you using?-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
Mongoose Teocali
Giant STP0
Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:0 -
Just so you guys know, just come from ps cyclics, the rear derailleur is faulty at manufacture.0
-
Did they say what was up with it? Spring?0
-
The mechanic said, When the derailleur was made, they over crimped the pins which hold the cases together, Which is stoping the derailleur from returning by its self.
Or thats what he thinks is the problem0 -
Hmmm, not so sure about that, but would need to see it.0
-
High probability he is talking bollocks, tbh.0
-
supersonic wrote:High probability he is talking bollocks, tbh.
Its a very well respected shop local.0 -
Strange how it worked to start then lol.0
-
supersonic wrote:Strange how it worked to start then lol.
It was working you are right but it was not working very well. as the ride went on it was sicking on the upshift, but it was working as you say
Edit: I put the sicking down to mud at the time, thats why I never mationed it0 -
Welsh_Tom wrote:The mechanic said, When the derailleur was made, they over crimped the pins which hold the cases together, Which is stoping the derailleur from returning by its self.
Or thats what he thinks is the problem
You have a 2010 sram x9 I guess ?
Yes, I agree with this 100% ! The rivets that hold the parallelograms to the composite err knuckle (?) are what I came to the conclusion as being too tight and they stick. If you pull the mech open about half travel while off the bike, it won't retract fully, which means it won't drop into the smaller sprockets ! I know this as I have a buggered up X9 mech in the shed right now and have stuck an x5 on temporarily !0 -
It woll not drop to the limit stop?0
-
Nope, it will if you open it up fully and let it snap shut, however that's not representative of the actual shift action and even by letting snap from mid-travel it won't hit the limit stop. When it does hit the limit stop it's not a harsh "smack" as per the correctly functioning x5, due to the resistance.0
-
Its a 2011 bike so i am guessing its sram x9 20110
-
Ryan Jones wrote:Nope, it will if you open it up fully and let it snap shut, however that's not representative of the actual shift action and even by letting snap from mid-travel it won't hit the limit stop. When it does hit the limit stop it's not a harsh "smack" as per the correctly functioning x5, due to the resistance.
EXACTLY what my 2011 X9 10sp is like. I have to overshift the lever to make it work.0 -
Its a shame most new bikes come geared with sram
0 -
Try working the cage by hand and adding lube. Poor cables will accentuate any probs.0
