Should the brake pads touch the disc............

bagz3
bagz3 Posts: 253
edited July 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
........... or should i be able to see light between the 2??

The wheels spin feely but i can hear it rubbing slightly. i can see light between one pad and disc but not on the opposite pad. This applies to both the front and back breaks.

ps. avid juicy 3's
It really is money for nothing

Comments

  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    Avid generally run with their pads very close < 1mm to the rotor, Shimano are further apart.

    Most likely one of the pistons is 'lazy' which can be fixed by cleaning the pistons (carefully) and making sure they extend/retract equally, so that one piston is not doing all the work.

    Replace the caliper, apply a little lube to Avid's 3D mounting system (three dimensions to mess up instead of everyone else's two) and line it up visually with the rotor, ignore the pads/pistons.

    Braking won't be too hot to begin with but after a short while the lazy piston will get the idea it has to do something.
  • bagz3
    bagz3 Posts: 253
    :shock: i wouldn't know where to start.........

    i had a little play and fluid started leaking out, so i tightened what i loosened....... :lol:

    the bike is brand new so i wouldnt have thought they'd need cleaning
    It really is money for nothing
  • 1mancity2
    1mancity2 Posts: 2,355
    Loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper in place (just enough to allow movement) apply the brake. With the brake on, nip up the bolts that should centre the caliper, trial and error to get them spot on.

    If your piston is sticking, try gently applying pressure between the pads with a flat strong blade be careful not to damage the pads. odviously you need to remove the wheel to do this.
    Finished, Check out my custom Giant Reign 2010
    Dirt Jumper Dmr Sidekick2
  • sparky.2002
    sparky.2002 Posts: 118
    just dont do it with the wheel spinning!!
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... highlight=
    my stripped and polished push-iron http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12754286
  • bagz3
    bagz3 Posts: 253
    1mancity2 wrote:
    Loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper in place (just enough to allow movement) apply the brake. With the brake on, nip up the bolts that should centre the caliper, trial and error to get them spot on.

    If your piston is sticking, try gently applying pressure between the pads with a flat strong blade be careful not to damage the pads. odviously you need to remove the wheel to do this.

    cheers,

    the 2 bolts holding the caliper in place are the ones one the side, not the ones one top............?

    it seems to have done the trick anyway
    It really is money for nothing
  • 1mancity2
    1mancity2 Posts: 2,355
    :wink:
    Finished, Check out my custom Giant Reign 2010
    Dirt Jumper Dmr Sidekick2
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Nope the ones on top, the ones on the side are almost certainly the ones holding the adaptor to the frame, none adjustable so you haven't moved anything......

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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