Seat tube reamer

andy777
andy777 Posts: 45
edited February 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

My bike has a 30mm seat post and a 34.9 mm seat tube.

I really want a dropper post but no one makes one in a 30mm dia.

Pure racing 27.2 is an option but i thought i might be able to enlarge then seat tube id from 30mm to 30.9 with a seat tube reamer. Then I could fit the a 30.9 dropper post.

Obviously the risk is knackering the whole frame If the reaming goes wrong!

Any thoughts ideas?

Cheers

Andy

Comments

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Taking nearly a mm off the seat tube sounds like a bad, bad bad bad bad idea.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    + many bad potatoes.
    Rather shim down if you have to.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • paul20v
    paul20v Posts: 267
    Sorry have to agree dont take anything out of the frame :(
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    This sounds almost as good an idea as the guy a few weeks back who wanted to drill a hole in his chainstay to fit a home made chain device.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • andy777
    andy777 Posts: 45
    Pure racing i7 it is then.!

    Just to clarify the seat tube is 30mm id and 34.9 od. I have a giant bike which has a 30.9 id seat tube with a 34.9 od. so it would go from a 2.5mm to a 2mm wall thickness, the same as the giant.

    Andy
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    andy777 wrote:
    Pure racing i7 it is then.!

    Just to clarify the seat tube is 30mm id and 34.9 od. I have a giant bike which has a 30.9 id seat tube with a 34.9 od. so it would go from a 2.5mm to a 2mm wall thickness, the same as the giant.

    Andy

    The Giant has been designed to have a thinner wall. Its not the thickness its just that your removing metal that the designer thought was important. You might get away with it and you might end up chewing the scenery when the bike folds in half.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    andy777 wrote:

    Just to clarify the seat tube is 30mm id and 34.9 od. I have a giant bike which has a 30.9 id seat tube with a 34.9 od. so it would go from a 2.5mm to a 2mm wall thickness, the same as the giant.

    Andy

    totally irrelevant.


    as to the other part. you have made the only option.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • RevellRider
    RevellRider Posts: 1,794
    nicklouse wrote:
    andy777 wrote:

    Just to clarify the seat tube is 30mm id and 34.9 od. I have a giant bike which has a 30.9 id seat tube with a 34.9 od. so it would go from a 2.5mm to a 2mm wall thickness, the same as the giant.

    Andy

    totally irrelevant.


    as to the other part. you have made the only option.

    As Nick says, totally irrelevant. The Giant may have an externally butted seattube.
  • andy777
    andy777 Posts: 45
    Well I'll leave it as it is!
    I didn't think it was a good idea in the first place, just it was suggested to me and I wondered if anyone had done it. Dont fancy going off a drop and snapping the seat tube :shock:

    Cheers

    Andy
  • andy777
    andy777 Posts: 45
    Update.

    My bike is a Cove Hustler. I was in the cove shop in North Vancouver today and they said "just ream it out to 30.9 thats what we do." They had a Cove G-spot there, which they had reamed out the seat tube for a customer, so a dropper post could be fitted.

    Andy
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    How about that. Some people don't agree on everything.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • Update,
    After my visit to the cove shop I also emailed them about the seat tube. This was the reply

    Hi Andy, we have now done this to every g-spot frame in stock (it's being
    done at the factory) and have done it to other customers hustlers as well.
    It doesn't weaken the frame in anyway and we have had no problems with it.

    I have gone ahead and reamed out my seat tube. Interestingly the internal diameter of the seat tube appears to be 30.9 lower down. Its only the first 100mm or so thats 30mm id. this means that there is no step, so no stress point, which was one of my worries. I finished off the job with a small honer to give a nice finish. :D

    Now to fit my dropper post.

    Cheers

    Andy
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    andy777 wrote:
    It doesn't weaken the frame in anyway and we have had no problems with it.
    Clearly it MUST weaken the frame, whether it's critical/relevant or not is different!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • S-M
    S-M Posts: 174
    if it is being done at the factory then i would not worry about it.
    1999 Specialized FSR Elite MAX Backbone.
    1998 Specialized FSR Ground Control - stripped for parts.
    2011 Boardman Pro HT - SOLD! (low quality, expensive garbage)
  • Simon,

    Yes I agree removing material will weaken it. I guess its well within any design parameters. Plus Riding in the North Shore is hardcore so the frames they've done will had had a good workout.

    I'll let you know if it snaps!! :o

    Cheers

    Andy
  • Update,

    Its still fine after 4 years
  • Herdwick
    Herdwick Posts: 523
    you don't forget do you? :mrgreen:
    “I am a humanist, which means, in part, that I have tried to behave decently without expectations of rewards or punishments after I am dead.”
    ― Kurt Vonnegut
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Removing metal will only weaken the frame if that material isnt being replaced with something else. In this case there is a seat post clamped in place at the top and its only the top 100mm which has been removed. I would have been happy to do it.