Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro 2006 Linkages

Kaise

Does anyone have any recommendations for the grease/lube i should use on the rear linkages of my stumpy?

Its creaking a bit and and it seems to come from the linkages on the rear triangle and shock

Any advice welcome

supersonic

You need to dig out the old manual if you can - may be downloadable. Bearings vary, some require nothing, some bushes grease, or silicone spray.

Ransaka

I added a dab of slick honey to the spacers and bolts on my Pitch and it's quiet and smooth. Don't think it's really heavy enough grease to last long but haven't had cause to complain so far.

Kaise

yeah no luck on the manual,

might be looking at a service on the steed anyway, so just need something to last past the weekend....

diy

Remove the pins, put a dollop of any grease avoid the threads and refit. Make sure you rotate the bearings a few times (e.g. with a bolt with some insulation tape on) to free any stuck ones.

Its likely that you need to do the horst link bearings. 6800-2RS for the 130mm model or 688 for the 120mm model (skate bearings). Its not an easy job without a bearing extractor (though doable).

http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf ... manual.pdf
or http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf ... _06rev.pdf

Kaise

Just got an e-mail back for specialized, their advice was;

The pivot points on your bike aren’t really designed to be packed with grease. It’s a bad idea to be applying grease or lube to the outside of a bike anyway (bar the transmission). It tends to attract grit and form a grinding paste, which generally wears away at and trashes the frame.

To cure the creak you’ll need to get your local Specialized dealer to order you a new bearing bike to replace the worn ones.

i understand what he is saying but will it be alright to do it just for one ride?

njee20

Why bother bodging it? Creaking bearings won't do any damage, leave it this ride and then sort it properly.

Kaise

thats a fair point, defo no point in dodging it!!

diy

Rotating the bearings will probably do the job. But I think they misunderstood you if they think you are adding grease to the external parts. Nothing wrong with a little grease on the pins to help stickiness, particularly if you intend to replace them. Don't pack it though as the pins could fall out.

PS they are standard bearings, no need to go to an LBS for a specific kit at 4 x the price, when they all conform to the same international standards. Just buy a quality brand.

nicklouse

as they are standard ball bearings any grease will do.

you will have some seal to lift.

full list in the manual

http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf ... _06rev.pdf

or if it is the version

http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf ... manual.pdf

Deepunder

I'm not sure about how to solve creaking bearing but it sounds like they are on their way out. Re-greasing will be a fiddly job and you may knacker a seal. I found the bearings I removed on my stump fsr 06' were in dreadful condition, full of muck and some bearings had partially disintegrated. I've read that if the bearing cakes up the bearing can sometimes jam and whole bearing starts to rotate in the frame which buggers your frame.

I attempted to change mine for first time this summer. I managed to remove install about 4-5 of the 10 bearings before it defeated me! The problem I had was lack of proper tools. I had some decent drifts and borrowed a vice but found the vice dimensions caused issues in getting clear access to press in/out bearings.

The double blind bearings on the drop out end of chain stay were tough to remove, I only managed one pair using a home made split collette extractor tool before the tool got jammed inside a bearing.

I sourced bearings from a guy on ebay for <£30, but I'm sure can get same from most bearing outlets if you follow spec in above spesh manual links.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPECIALISED-FSR-S ... 1e64b4b75d

This guy was genuinely helpful after the sale and assisted loads with guidance in installing them, here are a few of his vids. They are ok but not that clear in a few places.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUOkEtQ8iSw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u42Ju5WNwyU

Finally after hours of trying, frustration and fear of damaging my frame I did admit defeat and gave to my LBS who completed the remaining ones for a very modest fee. To be honest I'm not sure I'd attempt it again but others here may say different. I would be open to tips on best methods/tools from other stumpy owners.

diy

My approach on the horst link was to drill the seal out, empty the bearings out and the inner ring then use a grinder on a dremel to weaken the outer race ring to the point that it can be cracked and driven out from the other side with a screw driver and hammer.

its a slow process about an hour each side. Fortunately once you've got one out the other can be driven out easily.

Personally I think spesh have this wrong. a skate bearing a washer and a skate bearing with a flange in the middle could be so much better with a single needle roller instead.

Deepunder

diy wrote:

My approach on the horst link was to drill the seal out, empty the bearings out and the inner ring then use a grinder on a dremel to weaken the outer race ring to the point that it can be cracked and driven out from the other side with a screw driver and hammer.

its a slow process about an hour each side. Fortunately once you've got one out the other can be driven out easily.

Personally I think spesh have this wrong. a skate bearing a washer and a skate bearing with a flange in the middle could be so much better with a single needle roller instead.

Interesting way to do it, I reckon probably easier than the way I tried. I'm not sure, but maybe a sharp set of snips may be able to take some of the inner race apart exposing the outer.

Indeed the design is odd or maybe I'm missing something. Why the double bearing with flange (frame) in between it must be for strength? Putting new bearings in is OK but extraction is difficult; surely its a phaff to machine the flange when they make the stay too. Agree a deeper needle bearing would seem a better way to do it.