First off on Thursday - and a pretty good one for a first!!

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  • EKE_38BPM
    EKE_38BPM Posts: 5,821
    thecrofter wrote:
    As soon as you get the back wheel in the air you are raising the CoG in relation to the pivot point and will have to ease off the front break to prevent going over the handlebars. As I said before, given a dry, clean road surface, the fastest way to stop is mainly front brake with a touch of back to keep everything in line. I really can't see why some people have difficulty understanding this. :roll:

    Because some people are stupid/deliberately obtuse.
    FCN 3: Raleigh Record Ace fixie-to be resurrected sometime in the future
    FCN 4: Planet X Schmaffenschmack 2- workhorse
    FCN 9: B Twin Vitamin - winter commuter/loan bike for trainees

    I'm hungry. I'm always hungry!
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    EKE_38BPM wrote:
    thecrofter wrote:
    As soon as you get the back wheel in the air you are raising the CoG in relation to the pivot point and will have to ease off the front break to prevent going over the handlebars. As I said before, given a dry, clean road surface, the fastest way to stop is mainly front brake with a touch of back to keep everything in line. I really can't see why some people have difficulty understanding this. :roll:

    Because some people are stupid/deliberately obtuse.

    No, it's because it's wrong! If there's any weight at all on the back wheel then you're not braking as hard as you could. Given the road is grippy enough (i.e standard tyres, normal bike, dry road). If the back wheel is staying 1mm off the road it's doing absolutely no braking, you could brake harder with the front and get the back wheel 10 or 20 or 30 or 40cm into the air, as long as you don't overdo it and flip over (modulate the braking and shift your weight) that'#s the quickest way to stop. Maybe I'm just unbelievably gifted :wink: but I don't need the back wheel on the ground on either the road bike or MTB to keep it in line.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    OptimisticBiker wrote:
    pdw wrote:
    Koncordski wrote:
    I tend to brake more or less always with the front, just a spot of luck that i haven't had to clamp it on. After your story i'll do my best to try using the back stoppers!

    On a dry road, front only is the fastest way to stop.
    Without wanting to detract from the OP's accident (get well soon btw) I disagree. On what do you base this 'fact'?
    Ye cannee change the laws of physic
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • pdw
    pdw Posts: 315
    thecrofter wrote:
    As soon as you get the back wheel in the air you are raising the CoG in relation to the pivot point and will have to ease off the front break to prevent going over the handlebars. As I said before, given a dry, clean road surface, the fastest way to stop is mainly front brake with a touch of back to keep everything in line. I really can't see why some people have difficulty understanding this. :roll:

    Sometimes it's not the rest of the world that's wrong... :roll:

    You don't want the back wheel in the air, you just don't want any weight on it. You want it just at the point that if you brake any harder, it will lift.

    If you achieve this, then any application of the rear brake will cause the rear wheel to lock, meaning that it won't "keep you in line".

    Can you please explain how a "touch of back" helps keep things in line? I can see that keeping a little weight on the rear will achieve this, but not if you then use the available friction for braking rather than allowing it to provide lateral stability.

    As I said before, there is a practical benefit to braking with the rear, which is that it allows you to feel how much weight you've actually got on the rear (if you feather the rear brake, it'll skid just before it lifts) but the fastest way to stop is to do it all with the front.

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