Using a track pump correctly?
El Selb
Posts: 137
Hey all, need to pick your collective brains. I'm a recent convert to road bikes with their presta valves and track pumps. I've bust a few valves by not connecting / de-connecting the pump correctly. I think I've overcome this problem now, but am struggling to get any more than a pressure of about 40 or 50 psi when I think I want more like 100 psi.
Just wondering how I should be doing it? thanks
Just wondering how I should be doing it? thanks
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Funnily enough, I did this on my first attempt too. Not tried again. Any help appreciated please.0
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What type of pump do you have, although it shouldn't make a difference.
Does it have a double head for presta and schrader valves.
Does it have a lever on the head to seal it to the valve.
Idiots guide follows :-
1. Take off valve cap if you use one.
2. Unscrew valve nut and slightly depress it to release any blockage that might be there.
3. Choose correct presta option on track pump.
4. Insert it over the valve without further depressing the nut mentioned in 2. i.e both valve and track pump head must be in same plain.
5. Move lever usually away from the valve to lock the head onto the valve.
6. Pump inner tube to required pressure.
7. Release lever and carefully take pump head off valve.
8. Replace valve cap after tightening the valve nut.
Simples.0 -
Thanks, will give it a shot.0
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The valves can be a bit delicate and prone to bending the inner if you're not careful. Excellent simples guide above, I'd just add to it, make sure the pumps locking grip isn't set overtight as it might not be seating fully on the valve & not depressing it sufficiently. The pump head is usually a screw collar with a rubber washer inside, if you look at it empty and flick the lock you'll see the washer compress to make a good seal, it can be a bit of trial and error to get it just right. I've found a bit of PTFE tape on the valve stem helps with some pumps to allow a looser grip, but be careful not to trap the stem locking nut on with too much
Also be sure to offer up the pump head square onto the valve & ideally have the valve to the floor to avoid unnecessary drag or pull on it - especially whilst you're getting the knack of it0 -
If the guage on your pump doesn't read the pressure when you connect it, its not opening the valve, in which case it will be a total Beatch to try and get air in!
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Of course, most track pumps have a lever on top to tighten the connection to the valve, I assume you are lifting the lever to tighten before pumping and lowering the lever when you've finished to release the valve?Do not write below this line. Office use only.0
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Another possibility is that your track pump doesn't like smooth sided valves. One of my track pumps will not work on valves without a thread on them, it just can't grip the sides of the valve and blows off at about 80 or 90psi....Do not write below this line. Office use only.0
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El Selb wrote:Hey all, need to pick your collective brains. I'm a recent convert to road bikes with their presta valves and track pumps. I've bust a few valves by not connecting / de-connecting the pump correctly. I think I've overcome this problem now, but am struggling to get any more than a pressure of about 40 or 50 psi when I think I want more like 100 psi.
Just wondering how I should be doing it? thanks
\What happens when you get to 40psi, does it just become to hard to pump or air leaks or the host comes off? What pump do you use? Might help if someone is using the same one.
I have a Joe Blow Sport 2 and everynow and then you do need to fiddle and tighten the tube threads on the pump too or air doesnt get through, but the result of this or the valve still being closed it the pump shoots up to 100psi in the first pump.0 -
Tried tonight and got the hang of it. Totally counterintuitive with the lever. You basically have to 'open' the lever to 'close' it around the valve. Very odd.0
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Joelsim wrote:Tried tonight and got the hang of it. Totally counterintuitive with the lever. You basically have to 'open' the lever to 'close' it around the valve. Very odd.
I think that basically when yuo raise the lever, it pushes the rubber seal hard against the valve and when you push the lever down, the seal is raised and released...Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
Joelsim wrote:Tried tonight and got the hang of it. Totally counterintuitive with the lever. You basically have to 'open' the lever to 'close' it around the valve. Very odd.
Yes - it is counterintuitive (or counterconventional) - most cams clamp in the down position.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
I think most of us in the beginning had to figure it out too :oops:wave your willy here !!!!0
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I think most of us in the beginning had to figure it out too :oops:wave your willy here !!!!0
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1st time I tried to pump up presta valve, I didn't realise you had to unscrew it to open up the valve! Took me longer to work out than you'd imagine too... :oops:0