Fitting carbon bars w/out torque wrench - would this be ok?

Jamie G

Hi all,

I've just got myself a set of carbon bars and was wondering if it would be ok to fit them using standard allen key tools etc, or it it really necessary to get a torque wrench?

Sorry if its a stupid question...and feel free to call me a tight a*se for not shelling out on the proper tools if you will! :P


Cheers guys


Jamie

dan shard

This may be a stupid question but did the bar come with a torque setting? If so Id probably try to find a friend with a torque wrench.If you cause damage that you cant see/hear happen, and then go over a big drop on the trail, it may (will) be A&E time

Jamie G

dan shard wrote:

This may be a stupid question but did the bar come with a torque setting?

It did indeed...is that your way of telling me 'there's your bl*ody answer then'? :oops:


Jamie

Andrew_J_Heard

id definately go and get a torque wrench mate. just to make sure.

they come in usefull as time goes on as well with things like bike and car parts.

i have a clarke one, nothing fancy and i think i got it in halfords for £25/£20 and its lasted me years. although you will then need relevant sockets etc.

dan shard

lol. No just interested, but I supose it does answer the question.

Jamie G

Cheers all, think judging from the responses that it better to be safe than sorry (cheap)

Appreciate the replies


Jamie

cooldad

Torque really applies to the stem bolts. Check the recommended torque settings for the stem, and use the lowest settings, probably around 5NM.
But I'm no expert on carbon so would recommend a second opinion.

Holyzeus

I bought one of these http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=387
Better than the Evans equivalent as you can change the bit in this one

02gf74

Hmmm, I don't have a tiny torque wrench so do it up by hand until if fells right .... can't explain that as it is an experien ce thiung - yet to strip any trheads, snap a bolt or crush a post or bars and not had anything come loose.

These bolts are small - M6 and M5 and do not need a huge amount of torque - onlu bolts I possible my have overdone are for seatposts and that is done until the post stops stipping; obviously special care is taken with carbon ones as they can start to crack.

Jamie G

Holyzeus wrote:

I bought one of these http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=387
Better than the Evans equivalent as you can change the bit in this one

Zeus, you're a legend! That'll do me nicely

Jamie

*AL*

Jamie G wrote:

Holyzeus wrote:

I bought one of these http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=387
Better than the Evans equivalent as you can change the bit in this one

Zeus, you're a legend! That'll do me nicely

Jamie

It is, if your stem/handelbar torque setting is exactly 5Nm.

The Rookie

You'll strip the threads in most stems long before you damage the bar, if your happy doing it up with an ally bar (as I assume you are) by hand, do it with Carbon!

Simon

fatlad

^^^^ nope
Am a bit of a ham fisted git, but far from mechanically "un-sympathetic"

In fact was a little scared that i hadn't done them up tight enough, less than a 1/8 of a turn to a point where they moved around in the stem... was setting my rebound and




Torque wrench FTW

dan1502

Use some carbon paste too. You can get away with lower torque than max and it helps prevent creaking.

dc71

The Beginner wrote:

You'll strip the threads in most stems long before you damage the bar, if your happy doing it up with an ally bar (as I assume you are) by hand, do it with Carbon

Maybe with alu, but not carbon. I managed to put visible dents in a Monkeylite SL bar with my Raceface stem. It didn't feel like I put too much torque in there but was an expensive mistake. I'd say most carbon bars will crush before you strip any threads on the stembolts. I still generally tighten it by feel