Shimano 105

rporbea
rporbea Posts: 2
edited July 2011 in Workshop
I have an Orbea Aqua T105. Trying to set the front mech up so that no chain rub occurs. at the extreme ends of the gearing: - small front chain ring and last two largest sprockets Or large front chain ring and last two smallest sprockets the chain rubs on the front derailer cage.
there seems to be insufficient lateral travel of the cage and/or the shape of the cage is not curved enough to follow the chain angles as it moves from side to side.
I am told this is normal and that it happens on many other more expensive gear systems.

Is this true? Why is the cage not shaped differently/ teflon coated or similar/ the pivot arm on the front mech longer, so it moves the cage more :?:

Comments

  • marin_maniac
    marin_maniac Posts: 513
    I've got 5700 105 on my winter bike and don't get any rub on either end of the gear extremes.

    If it was me, I'd set the mech up from scratch.

    1. Line up mech so that cage is parralell with chain rings
    2. Set height 1-3mm from bottom of mech to top of chainring teeth
    3. Set high/low limit stops so chain just about clears mech without rubbing
  • Yes, the 5700 front mech is much better than the 5600 no chain chatter.

    But, there is a trim function on your levers to stop any chatter if you want to carry on using the 5600 front mech.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I have 105 triple (5603) and I get no chain rub in any combination if I use the trim function properly.

    (Actually, since I fitted a bargain £10 Mavic chain, I do get a bit at the extremes, so the next chain will be 105 again)
  • A related question. Apologies for (slightly) hijacking thread.

    I have a 2x10 speed 105 5700 set up. The gears are working smoothly and seem well adjusted.

    When in the big chainwheel and with the chain as far to the right as it can go I have only two downshift clicks to play with: 1st click (small lever, left STI) releases the trim and stays in big chainring; 2nd click shifts to the small chainring. After the 2nd click I end up with the FD all the way over to the left. I then have three upshift trims to play with: 1st click (large lever, left STI) is trim in the small ring; 2nd click is into the large chainring; 3rd click is trim in the large chainring.

    My 2x9 speed Tiagra (2007) STI set up works differently, in that the downshift from the large chainring puts the FD in the trim position on the small chainring, i.e. there are three downshift clicks available, not two, and also three upshift clicks.

    Is this a difference in design between the new 105 and old Tiagra, or just a case of adjustment on the 105? I have tried different cable tension to the FD on the 105 but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

    This is no big deal, but I'd like to get both bikes working the same if possible. Thanks for any advice.
  • jomoj
    jomoj Posts: 777
    keef66 wrote:
    I have 105 triple (5603) and I get no chain rub in any combination if I use the trim function properly.

    (Actually, since I fitted a bargain £10 Mavic chain, I do get a bit at the extremes, so the next chain will be 105 again)

    keef - those mavic chains are just a tiny bit wider than shimano, sram etc. I had problems with shifting on the rear cassette, just couldn't get it adjusted right then fitted a KMC 10spd chain (same width as the big S's) and shifting was perfect so that may be your problem. KMCs also have a powerlink type joining link which I prefer to the shimano pin

    The mavic chain is now running on a shimano 9 speed cassette and sram 10spd double perfectly...
  • Paul E
    Paul E Posts: 2,052
    I currently have a kmc on my 105 triple and the easylink as I think it's called is a great design.