1 for the real techys
marksteven
Posts: 208
just fitted a new 11/34 cassette to my touring bike , it already has a compact chainset on it , i was running a 12/27 with a standard 9 sp D Ace rear mech . so put the cassette on &it works, a tiny bit clicky on the 34 but thats all, i never have huge chain cross over , always have 2 cogs spare when on the big ring, & will only use the 34 as a get out of jail cog. any way the question is , shall i leave it ? or will it do damage.
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try switching it off and on again.The dissenter is every human being at those moments of his life when he resigns
momentarily from the herd and thinks for himself.0 -
Have you lengthened the chain at all??0
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no . like i said i'l never be in the 50 34 or 50 30 so chain length is fine , i was wondering about th tiny bit of clicking on 34 34 .0
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TBH i would fit an MTB mech. last thing you want is to lose the mech in the wheel."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Chain around big ring and largest sprocket and then add two extra links. Job's good un.0
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Cleat Eastwood wrote:try switching it off and on again.
I lol'd :oops:0 -
one_bad_mofo wrote:Chain around big ring and largest sprocket and then add two extra links. Job's good un.
Im not sure its as simple as that. Do you not need to make sure the rear mech can handle the range too?
I'd take Nicks advise. Not worth wrecking the wheel or mech if you accidentally shift too far0 -
rewind it.0
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Could be a bit clicky because the mech is too close to the 34 sproket. Adjust with the B limit screw.
Stick with it, as long as you're careful about crossing the chain.0 -
Im running the same combo but with a long cage rear mech . standard advice is for only 26 tooth differential on a standard mech and mine still clicks in the 34.
I ve adjusted the B Screw on the drop out and added two links which seems to have sorted it out.0