Advice on fitting a stem without getting any 'play'

pseymour
pseymour Posts: 194
edited June 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
I've just attached a new stem to my headset and can't seem to attach it without getting any play. When I press down on the handlebars I can feel a slight movement before the forks activate.

Do you turn the top compression screw till it grips. Then tighten the 2 stem bolts. Then finish tightening up the top compression bolt?
Whatever order I tighten the bolts in, I seem to get an annoying bit of play. I'm trying not to overtighten them too, but maybe they are too loose.

Any advice please!

thanks,
Pete
Giant Anthem X3 2010.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    sounds like the classic lack of gap

    fork11.jpg
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Always do the stem bolts after the top cap. You don't need to 'tighten' the top cap as such, just nip it up until there's no play, too tight and you'll risk damaging the headset.

    Do you have a gap below the top of the stem and the steerer of 3mm? If it's less then you may find the top cap is bottoming out on the top of the steerer before the headset goes tight.
  • pseymour
    pseymour Posts: 194
    Could you expand on that please. I'm not sure what you mean, or how I 'add' a gap!
    Cheers. Pete.
    Giant Anthem X3 2010.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If there is insufficitnt space below the top of the stem to top of steerer the top cap bottoms out on the steerer and you can't pre-load the ehadset properly.

    To add gap you use a taller stem (in the clamp area) or use extra spacer (add a 5mm or use one 5mm thicker than one you have now).

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    To apply preload on the stem+spacer stack it's important that the top cap doesn't touch the steerer tube. To achieve this you need a gap between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem+spacer stack.

    To get this gap either increase your spacer+stem stack height or shorten your steerer tube.

    Once you've got the gap:

    1. Fully loosen your stem pinch bolts
    2. Carefully tighten the top cap until you have correctly preloaded the headset bearings. You can test for play by holding the front brake on and pushing the handlebars back and forth. If there's any play you'll feel a clunking sensation coming through the bars.
    3. Make sure the stem is straight, then fully tighten the stem pinch bolts.

    That's it!
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Do NOT turn the top cap after you have nipped the stem bolts up! Is no need!
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    supersonic wrote:
    Do NOT turn the top cap after you have nipped the stem bolts up! Is no need!

    well you could turn it anti clockwise if you want ultimate light weight :wink: as it is not actually needed.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I like to keep it just incase lol
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Having thought about that, it makes no sense, once the stem is rotating on the steerer your going down regardless of whether a top cap is there or not, unless you mean in case you want to fix it trailside (after falling off anyway)?

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    To adjust on the trail yes. I fit and remove forks often, the bearings sometimes settle a little and need readjustment.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Also looks better than a big hole on top.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Leaving your top cap off is an effective way of loosing your teeth in an accident.
    Handlebar ends are also viscous and can easily remove chunks of flesh without end caps fitted.
    Be safe, fit caps.

    Snot green Canyon Nerve AM 8.0x
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Not sure there is much difference smashing face first into a top cap or an open topped stem....

    Agree with SS though, bearings do settle and you may need a trail 'tweak'.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • TuckerUK
    TuckerUK Posts: 369
    Leaving your top cap off is an effective way of loosing your teeth in an accident.
    Handlebar ends are also viscous and can easily remove chunks of flesh without end caps fitted.
    Be safe, fit caps.

    Also, fit covers over your wheels spokes.

    And convert to belt & pulley drive.
















    Sorry, couldn't resist being facetious. :lol:
    "Coming through..."
  • pseymour
    pseymour Posts: 194
    Thanks for all who took the time to offer serious advice. Adding another spacer sorted it out. I would have never have worked this out myself. Thanks again.

    For all those who offered nothing but weak jokes, your material needs some polishing.
    Giant Anthem X3 2010.
  • timpop
    timpop Posts: 394
    pseymour wrote:
    For all those who offered nothing but weak jokes, your material needs some polishing.
    It's because they're old. Dad jokes are never really funny.
    Many happy trails!
  • timpop
    timpop Posts: 394
    Glad it's sorted though, the gap is what I would have thought too.
    Many happy trails!