Rear shock advice please

GJC

My mate has a fox float R 160mm as a rear shock on is current MTB, He feels that even when he pumps shock up to a high pressure 280mmHg+ he does a few jumps not to big and the indicator shows that is nearly bottoming out, he weighs about 117kgs, the question is would a upgrade to a FOX vanilla type of shock be more benefical or will he suffer the same problem?

many thanks GJC

nicklouse

same issue.

set the sag and use.

hobbitsharley

not really a coil can be more linear in its rate or it can be made to stiffen up closer to its max travel, you sat hes nearly bottoming out ? - then hes good to go a good fast heavey run would put my Fox rp23 out of its depth a little as it seemed to blow thru most of the travel very quickly then ramp up and not rebound quick enough, i swapped to the CCDB - different bike now and i can ride stuff were i would fear for the air shock with hesitation.

It also depends on the suspension set up and style some are more efficient than others and some need more or less sag to get the best from the shock - on my bike i was almost full presssure required on the downhills, possibly the way i ride (clumsy) but i was like your friend blowing through the travel

GJC

Cheers Guys for the replies

GJC

Anonymous

you SHOULD be using all your travel occasionally on a ride - otherwise there's no point having it.

hobbitsharley

yeehaamcgee wrote:

you SHOULD be using all your travel occasionally on a ride - otherwise there's no point having it.

+1
im still going thru the travel but the CCDB just seems bottomless and so much better controlled

Anonymous

Sounds like the Cane Creek Double Barrel (I bet there's a ton of people who had no idea what you were on about) has a similar heavy duty bottom-out resistance to the Fox DHX 5.
Is it sdjustable, like it is on the fox?

hobbitsharley

i havent eve rear the manual - TF tuning set it up for me i fitted it set the spring preload for sag (i run it at the XC setting on the sagometer) and havent touched it since - its that good you dont even know its there you just get on and ride, all i know is that Ohlins built it to Cane Creeks design and having had Ohlins on my other toys i can say with out a doubt this lives up to its hype
this is the link to the manual - it sorta has bottom out adjustment, as you can see complex manual - looked at it and closed it and left it in the box LOL

http://www.canecreek.com/manuals/Shock_ ... ctions.pdf

High Speed Compression Damping

Controls the compression of the shock for big hits that move the shock’s shaft at high velocity. Compression damping assists the spring in absorbing the initial impact
of a hit

Affects the bottoming resistance of the shock. More compression damping is good as it keeps the tire against the ground, thus, increasing control.
Note: You will only sense adjustment changes on big hits. High speed has nothing to do with the speed of the bike. High speed refers to how fast the shock compresses. Full adjustment range is ~3.5 revolutions.

Increasing compression damping will reduce the amount of stroke consumed in absorbing a hit. If the shock is bottoming too much, increasing high speed compression damping will improve the performance. If the suspension is too harsh on big hits, reduce the damping. Make adjustments in ½ turn increments. Clockw

Anonymous

What you wrote there is just normal compression damping - the Fox DHX I have has a specific adjustable resistance at the end of the stroke, to prevent harsh bottoming out.

hobbitsharley

yeehaamcgee wrote:

What you wrote there is just normal compression damping - the Fox DHX I have has a specific adjustable resistance at the end of the stroke, to prevent harsh bottoming out.

very nice i bet thats like a carpet ride on big drops and hits as i said i have yet to feel my shock bottom out, i did look at the Fox DHX and the BOS Stoy but settled on the double barrel as it seemed to be a little more how do i put it "flexible" in ride disciplines, now to get the funds to get a fork to match - spent it on the other toy instead LOL

popstar

GJC standard stock Float R may have preset compression tune on low and rebound damping on medium from factory, given info that rider is over 100kg no wonder it blows out so quick on bigger jumps. You just can't adjust it perfect for small roots to be plush while at the same time good enough for big stuff. There is only option to ramp up the pressures, and even then it may not help to achieve desired result for bigger stuff to ride, never mind loosing plushness for small trail clutter. Ideally it would be better to send off shock for custom tuning but then talking about VFM it doesn't somehow feels right. New shiny shock all the way I say !

Whoever said RP2/RP23 may struggle on techy trails ... that platform shock is much much better than the standard Float R. But there is black magic about rear shock ideal set up IMHO. Many factors to think about aka rider's weight, changing terrain and prefferences as well as customising shocks compression/rebound tunes to your specific needs.


CCDB doesn't have specific setting for bottom out like DHX. They apparently just use a thicker bumper rubber ring for that. Saw a video with Malcolm explaining it, but yeah ... MTBR forums are full of those discussions mentioning it and the need for -frame built inn bottom out feauture- for use with CCDB shock.

HTH

GJC

Thanks Popstar

Almightydutch

Hobbits - Just so you know you have the wrong damping circuit there.
The speed part of the Low and High speed relate to the shaft speed. This the high speed damping is actually the smaller more frequent stutter type bumps. The low speed damping is what your actually using when blowing through the main part of the travel.

hobbitsharley

Almightydutch wrote:

Hobbits - Just so you know you have the wrong damping circuit there.
The speed part of the Low and High speed relate to the shaft speed. This the high speed damping is actually the smaller more frequent stutter type bumps. The low speed damping is what your actually using when blowing through the main part of the travel.

I copied it straight from the online manual - as I said I looked at and left it in the box - it works and I don't need to fiddle with it lol

should be up Cannock on Sunday if im not to hung over - look for a Spicy 516 struggling up the hills in readiness to whaz down the other side - riding buddy will be on a Lynskey Ti hardtail and possibly a carrera and a trek with us as well

Almightydutch

Bugger your right, didnt realise.

As for Sunday, have fun with that. I got me nippers first birthday but hoping to get out early before it all kicks off. Be interested in how the shock is to be fair as my Monarch just doesnt cut it. But then my Blur LT2 is heavy enough already.

hobbitsharley

enjoy the party if im ever up there and you see me and wanna try the CCDB as long as your ok riding a tiny bike (5'5") then you more than welcome to try it

Anonymous

Almightydutch wrote:

This the high speed damping is actually the smaller more frequent stutter type bumps. The low speed damping is what your actually using when blowing through the main part of the travel.

Not quite right. Low speed damping affects the lower speed movements such as weights shifts due to rider positioning, braking, accelerating, pedalling etc.

Almightydutch

Hobbits if i do see you i'll gladly take you up on your offer. I ride a small SC Blur LT2 and love it, went for the smaller frame so it was more of a play bike. But to feel how a CCDB works would be nice. What time you up there Sunday...if you do actually go?

Yeah Yeehaa, i'm a numpty at times, i type but dont think.

hobbitsharley

we should be there at 10ish depending on how hammered i get at a party night before LOL,