On One Inbred Disc Brake Cable Routing - New Olives?

jclem

Have seen a couple of Inbred builds on here and wondered if anyone could help me with the routing of my Deore hydraulic brake cabling.
The guides on the Inbred are closed rings and I guess the only way to route the cable through them is to disconnect at the lever, route them and reconnect.
I've looked on a few websites about this and there seems no other way BUT do I need to get new olives (and other seals) for the cable when I reattach them. The whole groupset is fresh out of the box and, although they're cheap, I didn't want to do it for no good reason.
Anyone with any experience of this or any ideas would be a hero!

lvquestpaddler

I got a 16" black Inbred frame along with new Deore 595 brakes and had to do this- front needed shortened as running a rigid setup, back needed to be taken apart at the master cylinder to get the hose into the frame guides. I bought new olives for both and cut the ends off both. Someone may advise if it's ok just to take them apart and reuse them, but for piece of mind I just replaced the inserts/olives. There's a good shimano article re bleeding- remove the pads, part pump out the pistons, make the cut/alteration and refit everything and when the pistons are pushed back the air in the end goes up into the reservoir and it doesn't need bled all the way through. Actually works very well. PITA but with Inbreds there's no other option bar ugly cable ties.

rowlers

Check my build out, I had exactly the same issue.
I didn't want to either brake the hoses or split the hose guide so bought some hose clamp things off CRC. Neat and worked a treat.
I'll try and dig the links photos out.

rowlers

Either these:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=28123
Or I used these:
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/hose-gui ... 18662.html
they clamp into the hose guide and give you a "hook" to hold your hose.
Nice and neat, I can't find a pic of mine fitted though - I'll take a pic if you need it...

jclem

Thanks rowlers and paddler,
The adaptors look like a good compromised but I may take the plunge and cut them. I'm hoping I'll learn how to bleed the brakes (or maybe how not to do it). It seems a shame not to use the guides already there on the frame.
Maybe I should ask for alternative uses for the guides - twiglet holders?

lvquestpaddler

It's worth learning how to bleed the brakes, seems daunting at first but it's fairly straight forward once you get going. The 595 Deores are easy enough to do, but if you decide to cut the hose and tap in a new brass insert you will need the little yellow blocks to hold it in a vice. I tried using mole grips and padding but still made an ar*e of the outer sheath. The brake kit I got was all assembled but had no blocks supplied to allow tuning the length. I needed a new hose kit after that disaster and the blocks did come with that, thankfully. I had to fully bleed the rear but I'm having weird issues like another poster who 's back lever seems to come in more than the front. It can't be the extra length so it may need a re-bleed(take the caliper off the mounting and let it hang so the nipple is pointing vertical), the rear pads are contaminated anyway and got new replacements from Superstar so will prob do it this week.

02gf74

if you cut the hoses, then you need to use new olives - they get crushed (is ok as part of the design to seal) onto the hose and the small insert.

I cut the olive off usng a dremel disc and extract the inner piece by cuting off the hose - I have reused the inner piece without any problems but with a new olive.

Disconnectng and reconnectng a hose can be done without the need of a new olive (this is usng the same brake).

lvquestpaddler

I bled the back brake and fitted new pads, then found they were far better than the front so had to do them, now both are working superb..... 8)