Chipped carbon fork and a creaking noise

coombsfh

Dear all,

I have had this specialized elite (2011) for 2 weeks now and have probably done between 100 and 200 miles on it.

My first gripe is that the bolt securing the brake caliper to the forks was loose, wobbly and manifested itself as a rubbing noise as one of the pads touched the wheel rim as it rotated. Asked a chum and he said to tighten it until the caliper could be moved and it would stay in one place. I did this gently in increments until it just held and then gave it a tiny bit more of a turn to make sure it wouldn't come loose.

Lo and behold, today it had worked loose again BUT this time it had loosened paint around the crown of the fork (pics below). I was wondering if this is me overtightening, braking too hard or a genuine fault. Only the paint has chipped off and it appears that FACT forks have an aluminium crown. Have I fluffed something up or not? Also, should I attempt to cover the raw aluminium with clear nail varnish or something to stop corrosion?




My second worry is that the bike makes a creaky-tick noise when I really give it some welly (been practising getting over 30mph on the flat so putting quite some effort in). This creaky ticky noise sounds very much like a shot bottom bracket. However, I took it to the bike shop and they said it is a strong one (external bearings) and that there was no play in it and he couldn't get it to do the noise. He said it may be the pedals (old MTB SPD's. What does everyone think?

Thanks in advance for the help and advice I have already come to expect on this forum,

Fred.

grotty

I'm not going to be too much help, but aluminium doesn't corrode - I'd consult the dealer you purchased the bike from about the fork situation. Regarding the clicking, could you try using another set of pedals to see if the clicking is still present? Is there any play in the old SPD's axles?

Also out of interest, Specialized *what model* Elite?

desweller

Creaks could be almost anything. Seatpost, saddle, quick release skewers, hubs, spokes, pedals, pedals not tight, cranks not tight, handlebars, stem, or, in my case a fortnight ago, cracks in the rim. The list goes on as long as you can think of parts on the bike.

I'd be a bit hacked off about the paintwork if you bought the bike new. I'd probably ask for it to be replaced as it seems the surface either hasn't been primed properly or the paint has not cured properly.

Anyway, you shouldn't have had to retighten the brake bolt. It certainly shouldn't come loose again, and there's definitely no such thing as braking too hard! I tighten it up by giving it plenty of stick. That bolt has got to contain the lever load of the brake so it needs to be tight or you could break it under braking.

EDIT: Fully recovered from your bout of meningitis?

centimani

DesWellers right, that paint looks as though it's not adhered properly, a fault in the manufacturing process. I'd be pushing that case if it were mine.
Aluminium does corrode, and it will if you dont get something on it. It'll go white and furry, then start getting under the carbon and lifting it. I know, its happened to one of my bikes in the past.
The whole thing needs sorting or it'll be a mess particually in wet of winter riding.

coombsfh

DesWeller wrote:

EDIT: Fully recovered from your bout of meningitis?

Not fully recovered and to be honest probably pushing myself a bit hard. The vomiting is almost stopped and the apetite is getting there.

The model is a 2011 Elite BUT I bought it from a bloke who's missus bought it for him. He was jumped up an operation list for carpal tunnel surgery and his arthritis is terrible so it remained unboxed (protective film on cranks and bar tape etc) in their kitchen until I turned up and bought it for £650. I have no receipt as they wanted to keep it (self employed etc) so don't know if I have a leg to stand on :oops: Got all the manuals but not sure if I will be allowed a fork fix...

The creaking may be the old pedals as they do have a little play. There is also a creak in the saddle but it is most prominent out of the saddle.

Where do I stand on the fork situ then? and just to clarify, am I ok to give that bolt holding the brake on some proper gusto as I have been gentle so far.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Fred.

ademort

centimani wrote:

DesWellers right, that paint looks as though it's not adhered properly, a fault in the manufacturing process. I'd be pushing that case if it were mine.
Aluminium does corrode, and it will if you dont get something on it. It'll go white and furry, then start getting under the carbon and lifting it. I know, its happened to one of my bikes in the past.
The whole thing needs sorting or it'll be a mess particually in wet of winter riding.

+1 aluminium does corrode and my Gazelle Vuelta that,s 6 years old is proof of that. I,ve ridden it to work in all weathers in that time and( heaset) several places show signs of corrosion down tube barrel adjusters are broken off and stuck in the bosses on the frame and bottle cage bosses are worn out.
Ademort

coombsfh

+1 aluminium does corrode

Any ideas of how to cover it up till I figure out if I can wangle a replacement?

gkerr4

coombsfh wrote:

+1 aluminium does corrode

Any ideas of how to cover it up till I figure out if I can wangle a replacement?

a smear of vaseline would do that - just to cover the bare metal up

if you are going after a warranty claim (and i also think you should) then don't paint it over as it will look like the bike has been tampered and may affect your chances of a successful claim.

coombsfh

if you are going after a warranty claim (and i also think you should) then don't paint it over as it will look like the bike has been tampered and may affect your chances of a successful claim

Do I need the receipt to make a claim? I have registered the bike on the website etc...

rolf_f

But if you can't get the fork replaced, if it were mine I'd run araldite under the flakey bit of the paint still on the fork and when that was dry, re-attach the loose flake with a bit more araldite - a very thin veneer of glue only. It won't be perfect but it will seal it all and it will probably be less noticeable than any attempt at a diy touch up.

As for the receipt - might be tricky. Ideally try to get it but, if not, just be grovelling about it. Ultimately, whoever bought it first it is hardly used.

coombsfh

Just messaged the guy I bought it off so fingers crossed I get the receipt...

ollyridesfirst

I'd certainly be taking it back to the shop where you bought it to have a look at the forks. It could well be the thread inside the bolt hole that is not holding correctly in which case the forks should be replaced.

With regards to the creaking....i used to get this quite a bit and it took my ages to diagnose. It turned out that my quick release skewers were too tight for the front wheel. I loosened that half a turn and it's been fine ever since.

coombsfh

Uhhhhhh. Not sure where he got it.

Sent a message but must re-iterate that I didn't buy this from a shop, someone else did and never used it. It was completely new, unused and boxed but I didn't buy it new. Hence I have no receipt.

Trying to get receipt off the bloke as we speak but if I can't do I have a leg to stand on?

ollyridesfirst

if it's the new model it might be worth contacting Specialized direct. explain to them that you bought the bike new, but lost the receipt....

In my experience with them, they are very good with customer service!

Try this guy out.....he's helped me out in the past and if he can't help he will no doubt know who will:

Robert.Walgamott@specialized.com

he's a customer service rep

coombsfh

Thanks a lot. Just sent an email and will keep you all posted.

Fred