hub bearings - mildly toasted on one side only?

reformedfatty
reformedfatty Posts: 543
edited June 2011 in The workshop
Front hub off of my Ribble winter trainer (Prolite como hub)

DSCN0936.JPG

Done about 1200 miles, first time it's been apart. Grease on one side was all fine and dandy, the other side was brown grinding paste. I just can't see why only one side was affected - its the non QR side if that makes any odds.

Comments

  • dilemna
    dilemna Posts: 2,187
    Seals are crap. Providing all the surfaces are fine ie unmarked and unpitted - clean, regrease, repack and refit. Good as new. How about the rear hub?
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  • Vegeeta
    Vegeeta Posts: 6,411
    That's a pretty normal situation to be honest, it was the same on my Shimano Deore rear hub.

    Check to make sure there is no excessive pitting or wear on the cone nut or bearing race then pack the hell out of it with a nice thick bearing specific grease (Juice Lubes is fantastically fast if your surfaces are in OK condition still, if not the thick white Finish Line grease will hide a multitude of gritty sins) and get some fresh bearings for that side of the hub at least... They'll only be pence.
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  • reformedfatty
    reformedfatty Posts: 543
    I repacked it with fresh grease for the moment. The bearings aren't great but they aren't dead yet. Likewise the races are a little less than perfect but not too bad.

    I haven't tackled the rear yet as I haven't gotten roudn to learning how to remove a cassette / freehub. Hard to know if there are any issues there as the freehub hides any noise. No workstand so not the most trivial thing to just keep it spun up and listening
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    reformedfatty wrote:
    I repacked it with fresh grease for the moment. The bearings aren't great but they aren't dead yet. Likewise the races are a little less than perfect but not too bad.

    I haven't tackled the rear yet as I haven't gotten roudn to learning how to remove a cassette / freehub. Hard to know if there are any issues there as the freehub hides any noise. No workstand so not the most trivial thing to just keep it spun up and listening

    The easiest way to do this is to up-end the bike and take the chain off. Hey presto, silent running (if all is well).
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  • Mr Plum
    Mr Plum Posts: 1,097
    For the sake of £1 a bag, it's worth changing the bearings when you take it all apart IMO, even if they look 'ok'.
    FCN 2 to 8
  • reformedfatty
    reformedfatty Posts: 543
    Finally looked at the back wheel today. same deal - fine on the non drive side, shagged on the other side.
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    I've got Pro Lite Como wheels on my Ribble too, after riding through winter the cones and bearings were shagged... It's possible to buy new bearings but Pro Lite do not supply replacement cones, they basically told me that the Como is considered a "disposable" wheelset, so basically for the want of a small cone shaped piece of metal you're expected to "dispose" of the wheel. Comos (cost GBP80ish at least the pair, OK not a fantastic amount of money as wheels go, but it just seems such an utter waste! I only used the wheels for about 7 months!
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  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    most hubs are generic at that price. Any decent LBS will be able to sort cones and bearings.
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  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    nicklouse wrote:
    most hubs are generic at that price. Any decent LBS will be able to sort cones and bearings.

    Cones are different for each brand and even each wheel set in each brand and even left and right cones for each specific wheel! I tried to get a cone for the right rear wheel of my cheap old Shimano WHR550 wheels only to be told by Shimano suppliers that it was not possible to buy cones for those wheels in the UK, they simply do not supply them....
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  • reformedfatty
    reformedfatty Posts: 543
    Well thankfully the cone and races are ok, just the bearings are a little rough. Trip to the LBS saw me with a full new set of bearings for a pound

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