Worn Ultegra sti shifters?

PO Paul
PO Paul Posts: 114
edited June 2011 in The workshop
I've got full Ultegra on a 2008 Trek 1.9, which is well used (c5k miles pa) but has been well maintained and regularly serviced. Earlier in the year I was experiencing poor gear shifting, so I thought must be time for a full service. Around Easter I had a new chain, cassette and all inner/outer cables replaced. But since then I've still had problems, the gear shifting is not precise/solid, sometimes having to double click one way and then one click the other. I've taken the bike back to my LBS a few times and they now say that they think the sti shifter could be worn. I had a second opinion from another LBS and they said they've never had any issues with worn sti shifters, but they can't figure out the poor performance. I've also had a look on the internet and there appears to be one camp that says sti shifters last forever and another that says wear and tear is common!
Your advice and opinions please. Should I buy new shifters (the new 6700 with hidden cables are very appealing) or what?

Comments

  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    Are you sure they changed the inner and outer cables? It's the first place I'd look for this problem

    Also, are your jockeye wheels worn?
  • PO Paul
    PO Paul Posts: 114
    Yes, I actually watched them change the cables.
    Didn't think of the jockey wheels, do you think that would make a difference?
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    PO Paul wrote:
    Yes, I actually watched them change the cables.
    Didn't think of the jockey wheels, do you think that would make a difference?

    Depends how worn they are, but potentially yes.

    Note that the top wheel (the guide pulley) is supposed to have some lateral play, but not twist.
  • PO Paul
    PO Paul Posts: 114
    Thanks, I'll have a look later.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    You can also get these symptoms on newish cables if the loop of outer housing to the rear derailleur is too short (too tight a radius = too much friction).
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    I'd certainly want to explore the possibility that the cables weren't quite right before splashing out on new shifters!
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    I'd try new jockey wheels. I replaced a set on my mountain bike's XT rear mech recently with wheels made by BBB, they weren't dear.

    My tourer has Sora with about 7k miles and shifts like new.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • jomoj
    jomoj Posts: 777
    before getting jockey wheels check there's no significant play in the rear mech pivots as that will also make shifting woolly. Also check the rear mech hanger isnt bent...

    finally - these things can really help by reducing the need to have a big cable loop at the rear mech
    1802.jpg
    Avid Rollamajig
  • JamieW
    JamieW Posts: 114
    i'd try the above first.... when i wore out my old 105 levers they here definately worn as shifting down wasnt a problem.... then to shift back up swinging the main lever would not catch at all, would take a few attempts to actually work....

    yours sounds more like a cable issue potentially....
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    i'd try the above first.... when i wore out my old 105 levers they here definitely worn as shifting down wasnt a problem.... then to shift back up swinging the main lever would not catch at all, would take a few attempts to actually work....

    I just bought an old bike with Shimano RSX 7 speed STIs for a mate, it had the same problem. I sprayed the inside of the lever with penetrating oil and it worked good as new.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    unixnerd wrote:
    i'd try the above first.... when i wore out my old 105 levers they here definitely worn as shifting down wasnt a problem.... then to shift back up swinging the main lever would not catch at all, would take a few attempts to actually work....

    I just bought an old bike with Shimano RSX 7 speed STIs for a mate, it had the same problem. I sprayed the inside of the lever with penetrating oil and it worked good as new.

    That's a good shout. Nobody ever squirts a bit of lube into their shifters, despite them being the single most complex device on the bike.
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    Worn bushings in the rear mech / worn jockey wheels?
    Lubing the STI's internals help when it won't (click) shift down, the grease they're assembled with goes a bit gunky after a few years. My Ultegra's are '03 and work fine, just a bit of chatter over cobbles.
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • ex-pat scot
    ex-pat scot Posts: 939
    Very much doubt its shifter-related.
    Chain wear.
    Rear mech - is any of the mechanism stiff?
    Jockey wheel (upper)

    Even loose cones can make shifting awkward!
    Commute: Langster -Singlecross - Brompton S2-LX

    Road: 95 Trek 5500 -Look 695 Aerolight eTap - Boardman TTe eTap

    Offroad: Pace RC200 - Dawes Kickback 2 tandem - Tricross - Boardman CXR9.8 - Ridley x-fire
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    DesWeller wrote:
    You can also get these symptoms on newish cables if the loop of outer housing to the rear derailleur is too short (too tight a radius = too much friction).
    Also if the outer housing is too short it acts like a spring and tries to 'straighten' and can move the mech slightly.

    The cable pull in a shifter is from rotating a cam that pulls the cable, as their is no movement or therefore friction it's hard to see how the groove in the cam will ever wear causing the issues you have, also the ratchet teeth on the cam see very little movement or wear potential - triggers causing an issue is one thing, but this is not that!

    Personally I think its either setup or rear mech related, not down to the shifters.

    I would certainly check the jockeys first, basic Shimano Jockeys can be had for a couple of pounds for an easy check, if the wheel is 'tilting' at all it will cause 'slow' (to the point of not happening) shifting as the chain on the original gear will tend to pull the jockey that way and stop it moving the chain onto the next gear.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • PO Paul
    PO Paul Posts: 114
    Thanks to you all for your advice.
    Ended up going for a third opinion at Look Mum No Hands, near where I work. They reckoned the rear mech was slightly bent and slightly worn. They made a couple of adjustments to it, fitted yet another cable and "tuned" the gears. On the way home last night and on the way in this morning I was hitting all gears with one click, up or down, so it looks like they've sorted it for me. Still not quite like brand new, but might give the shifters a clear out with GT85, you all say that makes a difference. Probably get a new rear mech in the not too distant future aswell. What's the point of having a nice bike if it's not all spot on? (No new 6700 shifters with hidden cables though :cry: )
    Thanks again
  • +1 for avid rollermajig. sorted out my sh*tty shifting when I upgraded my sirrus to 10 speed.
    Dolan Preffisio
    2010 Cube Agree SL