Fitting new stem questions?

snerkler

Hi,
I have the Cube Ltd Comp 2011 bike and find the stem (Easton EA30 115mm) a bit too long so have just bought an Easton EA70 90mm stem. When re-tightening the bolts is there a specific torque to tighten them to, or is it just a matter of tighten them as much as I can?
Is there anything else I need to be aware of, ie when I take the old stem off springs and spacers are not going to fly out or anything? I'm assuming I'll just be able to replace the stem without having to adjust anything else?
Cheers

nicklouse

well you may need more or less spacers if the stack height is not the same. Torque depends on the bolt size. Easton stuff normally comes with the info if not it is on their webby.

unixnerd

Tighten the star nut at the top first, then the nuts on the stem. Do NOT overtighten them or you'll strip the threads, it's only aluminium.

snerkler

Thanks for the info. Sorry to be such a newbie but what exactly are you referring to when you say stack height? I would assume the EA30 and EA70 are the same dimensions?
I'm assuming the star nut at the top is the the one on the top cap (as circled in the photo below)?

supersonic

The top of the stem, or spacers, should be ABOVE the height of the fork steerer by about 3-5mm so the top cap can preload the bearings.

snerkler

supersonic wrote:

The top of the stem, or spacers, should be ABOVE the height of the fork steerer by about 3-5mm so the top cap can preload the bearings.

Oh dear this is embarrassing, that's all double dutch to me. The fork steerer is?

nicklouse

snerkler wrote:

I would assume the EA30 and EA70 are the same dimensions?

why?they are different level of parts and the higher the level of kit the lighter it tends to be.
and there are no standards for stack heights.

they have the torque settings on them.

supersonic

Have a look at Park Tools on how to adjust a headset and fit a stem.

snerkler

supersonic wrote:

Have a look at Park Tools on how to adjust a headset and fit a stem.

Thanks. Just been on good old wiki teaching myself all the lingo and parts of the bike.
Seem swapping a stem is not as straight forward as I first thought. I'll check out Park Tools and also have a look on youtube I think.

morleyman200

take old stem off, put new stem on, if the fork steerer isn't about 3mm or move below the top of the new stem you'll need to add spacers between either the frame and stem, or stem and top cap. the 3mm gap provides a little bit of room so the stem is pulled down the steerer so the bearings in the headset are loaded. not too tight but just enough to make the bearings slide easily without any play.
if you do have enough room between the top of the steerer and the stem, replace top cap, and tighten the bolt till it is tight enough to stop any 'play' (can test play by pulling front brake and rocking the bike forward and backward, if the fork moves then there is play, tighten the top cap more)
Then once top cap is sorted tighten the pinch bolts on the stem to recommended torque. normally between 5-10Nm

Tom

phildaw

useful post, thanks for asking the question...

I must admit I do not own a torque wrench, and have a new Sunline V1 stem arriving in the post tomorrow, so was wondering how important the torque settings truly are.

I think I will be off buying myself a torque wrench before going anywhere near it!!!

morleyman200

i haven't got a torque wrench, people on hear will moan if you don't use one, but if you dont over tighten them by a stupid amount you should be fine

phildaw

ah.. ok

snerkler

morleyman200 wrote:

take old stem off, put new stem on, if the fork steerer isn't about 3mm or move below the top of the new stem you'll need to add spacers between either the frame and stem, or stem and top cap. the 3mm gap provides a little bit of room so the stem is pulled down the steerer so the bearings in the headset are loaded. not too tight but just enough to make the bearings slide easily without any play.
if you do have enough room between the top of the steerer and the stem, replace top cap, and tighten the bolt till it is tight enough to stop any 'play' (can test play by pulling front brake and rocking the bike forward and backward, if the fork moves then there is play, tighten the top cap more)
Then once top cap is sorted tighten the pinch bolts on the stem to recommended torque. normally between 5-10Nm

Tom

Thanks for this explanation, very helpful

snerkler

So I fitted the new stem yesterday, it took me by surprise how shortening the stem 25mm makes the bike feel so much different, it turns much sharper. Wasn't expecting that.

Anyway, the torque settings were actually listed on the stem itself, and for the top bolt it was in the instrucstion (1.6Nm I think).

Is there a way to check everything's in line/true (ie bars straight etc) or is it just a case of eye-balling it?

CitizenLee

snerkler wrote:

Is there a way to check everything's in line/true (ie bars straight etc) or is it just a case of eye-balling it?

Lazers

No mate, just line it up by eye until you think it's straight.

snerkler

CitizenLee wrote:

snerkler wrote:

Is there a way to check everything's in line/true (ie bars straight etc) or is it just a case of eye-balling it?

Lazers

No mate, just line it up by eye until you think it's straight.

Thanks. I like the idea of lasers though