Cadence?

Keith1983

So what's the big deal with people monitoring their cadence? If I can do the speed I want to do over the distance I want to do it what does it matter how fast my legs are going? Surely some people are better suited to different gears? I may be wrong hear and I'm more than willing to listen to those with more experience but I just don't get it?

rake

could say t same about car rev counters.

Butterd2

Personally I find that as I get fitter for the same speed my cadence increases and I can maintain that same speed for longer.
Riding at a low cadence tires/strains my muscles, riding at a higher cadence requires better cardio fitness but once you have this it is sustainable.
Next time you are out look at the nodders and look at the decent cyclists and see if you can see any correlation with their cadence.

Keith1983

rake wrote:

could say t same about car rev counters.

Not really. As an engine has a peak power band and also consumption issues. I don't have big massive strong muscles but I do have a reasonable amount of stamina, therefor I am better off going for the faster legs less force option, where as some of the bigger guys on here might find the opposite.

Keith1983

Butterd2

I appreciate what I find comfortable and beneficial will change as I get fitter/stronger but surely even the pro's achieve their times and speeds and distances using different gears and cadence?

amaferanga

I don't take much notice of cadence to be honest - no more than a quick glance to see what my average cadence was after a ride and an 'oh'. Unless you ride with an exceptionally low cadence (e.g. grinding away at 60rpm like you see many newbies doing) then its not really worth worrying about for general riding.

Some people just like numbers though and cadence is just another squiggly line to look at after a ride if you have a Garmin.

oldwelshman

I never used the cadence monitor that came with my Garmin I just sold it on.
No meed tomonitor it as you can feel if your pedalling faster or slower but you will find natural cadence to suit you,which does not stop you doing either slower or higher cadence training.

danowat

amaferanga wrote:

I don't take much notice of cadence to be honest - no more than a quick glance to see what my average cadence was after a ride and an 'oh'. Unless you ride with an exceptionally low cadence (e.g. grinding away at 60rpm like you see many newbies doing) then its not really worth worrying about for general riding.

Some people just like numbers though and cadence is just another squiggly line to look at after a ride if you have a Garmin.

Exactly my take on it.

I can feel my cadence "sweet spot", I don't need a cadence sensor to tell me when I am in it.

1_reaper

Mine is around 80-85 and can kind of get the feeling on a ride if it's about right. Good to look at the Garmin data after to confirm it

Wh05apk

Interesting, I was going to ask a similar question after tonights ride, I have only been riding for about a month, and have done about 200 miles, tonight I did 26 miles at an avergae of just under 16mph, not too bad for unfit, overweight 40 something, I seem to be one of those newbies grinding away, and estimate I am doing about 55-60rpm, I seem to be in top gear most of the time at about 18mph, as I get fitter will my cadence improve? I gather I should be aiming for about 85-90rpm? at the moment I just don't seem to be able to maintain more than about 60 rpm for any time.

peterst6906

As a junior (many years ago now), I was told to aim for a cadence in the range of 90-100, which I was always taught was the optimum cadence for the muscle pump effect.

The return of de-oxygenated blood to the heart from the legs is aided by the contraction of the muscles and this is thought to be most efficient with a cadence of 90-100.

The other aspect of cadence vs. gear ratio for a given speed is a balance between cardio exertion vs. muscle exertion; and generally it's easier to maintain a given speed longer at a higher cadence and lower gear, than it is to maintain additional force in a higher gear.

Of course, the 90-100 range is a starting point and everyone should find what suits them. Having learnt that way, I sit at 89-93 for hours on the flat and drop down to 70-80 during climbs, but each to their own.

Regards,

Peter

rjh299

I try and keep my cadence between 90-100rpm. Read that this the optimum range but also it's what feels best for me. I find that if I push a bigger gear the next day my legs feel heavier than usual on a ride. My cadence 'sweet spot' is 96-98rpm, I have a Garmin and do quite often look to see what my cadence is and adjust my gearing to keep it between 90-100.

Hals1967

As others have said, you'll find your own optimal cadence after a while. We're all different but in general you'll see most experienced road cyclists turning a higher cadence generally. At least that's what I've noticed.

My own natural cadence is 90 -100 on the flat, but I certainly feel just as comfortable at up to 110 and down to the 80 mark. Hills I naturally seem to hit 70 -80 depending on gradient but have often ground out many slogs at 50 -60.

Don't get too fixated by numbers though, if it feels right for you, then it is right. Your body will soon let you know otherwise !

Lightning

Unless you're one of those people who grind heavy gears, don't worry about it. I used to push really heavy gears until I got a cadence sensor and started forcing myself to spin more and grind less. It took me a while to get used to it but now my natural cadence is around 90 (including climbs unless it's too steep and I'm out of gears, in which case I stand if possible) and I feel much better. What works for me might not work for you though, everyone's different.

ChrisSA

I have recently got a garmin cadence sensor. On the rollers I'm pushing 85-90, and on the road somewhere between 90-105.

Xommul

Is this also true for riding mountain bikes on trails and tow paths?

Its better to use a higher cadence and lower gears to stop depleting your legs of energy? At least till you are fitter and stronger?

I am trying to do some research into road riding before my bike turns up and this is an interesting thread on how i should aim to be riding.

Xom

monnet

When I started out cycling I aimed for anywhere between 80-100 but I was once advised by someone who used to do a bit of racing to ride in the lowest gear that's comfortable. I race now and definitely agree. The fitter you are the more you tend to spin, as a rule. I've raced in local league races with Elite riders and where I've been chewing my handlebars in 53x12 they've been soft tapping in 53x16 - clear difference in fitness (and class!).

In essence, it's just a number. If you feel comfortable, you're fine. High gears suit some people, and ruin the knees of others.

springtide9

Xommul wrote:

Is this also true for riding mountain bikes on trails and tow paths?
Its better to use a higher cadence and lower gears to stop depleting your legs of energy? At least till you are fitter and stronger?
I am trying to do some research into road riding before my bike turns up and this is an interesting thread on how i should aim to be riding.
Xom

Same applies.... but off-road the exception is that you can't always spin (or stay in the saddle for that matter) due to the terrain. And due to the terrain, these exceptions can become the majority of your riding time..

andrewjoseph

Upping my cadence to between 80-95 stopped foot pain I was having when pushing big gears.

A cadence monitor helped me get the feel of a higher cadence, and helps me keep in my zone when tired.

As others have said, some people are better at lower cadences than at higher. From some of my reading on the subject, 'low' is around 70- 80 rpm, 'high' is 110-120.

I find that if I drop down to below 60 rpm my feet start hurting again, too high for too long (100 plus for more than 5 mins) and my left knee is not happy.

Keith1983

Thanks for all your input guys. I don't think I'm one of the beginners that grinds the heavy gears, although I may find out otherwise as I'm looking to join a local club soon. I guess it's just another of those personal things that with practise I hope to find what suits me.

andrewjoseph

I was surprised by my cadence when I first got my monitor, I thought I had a fast cadence, my monitor told me I was only in the low 50's for most of the time.

Increasing that to the mid 80's took several months, my absolute max is still only 130 or so, and only for a few seconds.

Bar Shaker

Since getting a monitor and being strict with keeping close to my personal sweet spot my endurance and speed have increased considerably.

It is very easy to stay in a gear and see your cadence fall away, if you aren't looking at the numbers. Unless you are always concentrating on it (and you won't be) your mind will allow your rpm to fall to low 70s or below, before you realise you need to shift.

On the odd occasion I have ridden without looking at the readout (on purpose) I have always undershot my target.

D@VE

You will find that you will start to bounce in the saddle when you go over your personal maximum cadence (if you are bouncing it's to fast) so no need to use a bike comp' the more you do this the higher your normal cadence get till get to your personal max.

If you do join a club you'll find you can spin to save energy when tucked in behind other riders (free ride ).

You can return the favor when your fitness increases.

I liked this story http://www.cyclingtipsblog.com/2010/12/7-things-that-make-the-pros-different/

BelgianBeerGeek

It sure will Keith. As an aside and as a high spinner, you don't mention your age/background. My knees are struggling so I learnt to spin quickly,and boy does it make a difference. Find what's good for you and don't be afraid to drop a gear before you think you need to.

Xommul

Hi folks,
From what I've read cadence monitoring seems like a good way to get better at cycling, minimise chance of "over doing it" type injuries and will help me develop efficient riding style so I can make best use of my time on the bike.

Next thing is which device do I buy? Any recommendations?

I've looked at a garmin 500 or 705, so I can use it for gps but it's pricey, any good cheaper ones?

Xom

Bar Shaker

I use the Boardman computer. It is a simple installation as it is double wireless. It also has altitude so shows total height climbed on the ride. You can also get a second bike kit.

The unit has proved to be 100% relaible. £49 and worth every penny.

Velonutter

I was trained by the late Peter Valentine when I was racing in the 70's, he would make us spin at 110+ and we had to do it the hard way by counting.

A lot of our top club riders ride in the inner ring (39) and spin for most of their training rides, it will utilise less energy and make you fitter.

As others have said, turning big gears uses energy but is not efficient.

rolf_f

It probably doesn't matter that much - personally, I come from a generation where we tended to get into top gear as soon as possible and grind away. I've recently got a cadence meter and found it handy to help keep my cadence up. I now tend to change down sooner.

However, the argument that you don't need cadence is the same argument you can apply for a computer full stop. You don't need any of it.

One question - I now have cadence and a hrm. Logically, I think the cadence is more important as the correct cadence should be the cause of the correct heart rate. Better to focus on the cause rather than the effect?

If my computer had proper display flexibility for different bikes, I think I'd make cadence the primary display (it's certainly more important than speed which really doesn't matter at all) - but I only have one bike with a cadence sensor.

Berk Bonebonce

No-one seems to have mentioned this ...

Bikes have gears. The same gear ratio can be achieved in different ways. A 100" gear, for example, can be achieved with a 42x11 or a 50x13. Cadence is a useful tool when considering the gearing on your bike and the ease with which you can turn certain gears.

Xommul

Is there a chart which shows which gears are closely compared so i know which one to shift into when i cant get my rpm's or im over shooting the sweet spot?

I have a compact set up on my road bike