Schwalbe question
Spoghead
Posts: 7
Hello.
I haven't been on a bike for over 10 years, and therefore am not the most clued-up when it comes to specs, etc.
I've just purcashed a Claud Butler Urban 400 - this one - to make a daily 7 mile trip to work and back, and have been told that Schwalbe Marathon Plus are the best tyres to miniimise punctures.
However, I'm not sure what size I will need for this bike...
Any advice is appreciated,
Spog
I haven't been on a bike for over 10 years, and therefore am not the most clued-up when it comes to specs, etc.
I've just purcashed a Claud Butler Urban 400 - this one - to make a daily 7 mile trip to work and back, and have been told that Schwalbe Marathon Plus are the best tyres to miniimise punctures.
However, I'm not sure what size I will need for this bike...
Any advice is appreciated,
Spog
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Comments
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700x25 should do you fine x28 or 32 for a little more comfort. M+ are good tyres but quite heavy keep them well inflated and you'll be fineNeil
Help I'm Being Oppressed0 -
That link says it has 700c wheels, so you could get them in 700x25, 28, 32, 35 or 38. Bigger number being fatter. I think it is fitted with 700x40 tyres as supplied so the nearest size will be 700x38. Going narrower will reduce weight but also comfort. I would go for 35's or 38's personally.
Edit: not meaning to contradict Woolferkins, all depends what you are wanting re weight/comfort.0 -
Thanks a lot.
What is the difference between the 3 sizes you mentioned? Comfort-wise, I mean.
I'm not looking to break any land-speed records, so weight shouldn't really be too much of an issue, hopefully.
edit: Ah, so the thicker the tyre, the more comfortable it will be, but the slower I'll go?0 -
Spoghead wrote:Thanks a lot.
What is the difference between the 3 sizes you mentioned? Comfort-wise, I mean.
I'm not looking to break any land-speed records, so weight shouldn't really be too much of an issue, hopefully.
edit: Ah, so the thicker the tyre, the more comfortable it will be, but the slower I'll go?0 -
Okay, I think that makes sense.
I'm basically just after a comfortable ride, at a moderate pace. Most of the journey will be on a footpath.
Would you say the 700x38 would be suitable enough for what I'm after, then?0 -
700x38 should be suitable, but I don't have experience of these particular tyres and they all ride (feel) differently. I have 700x37's (not Marathon Plusses) on my commuter bike that takes in a few bits of unpaved path and some mud, but mostly road, and these feel fine to me. I wanted robust tyres and speed wasn't an issue (I have faster road bikes for those sorts of rides). The bike came with 700x42 Continentals and the steering felt vague and grip was low. Swapping the tyres improved it a lot but that is probably more than just the different size, so I wouldn't generalise from that.0
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I think I'm gonna go with the 38s, then.
As I say, I haven't even been on a bike for over 10 years, so iit's gonna feel strange to me no matter what tyres I use.
One last question, and this might also sound dumb - can you possibly recommend me a decent pump and pressure gauge? Just something basic that does the job, really.0 -
For a Track Pump (at home use) I have a Topeak Joe Blow - there are a few models, they work well, reasonably priced.
For a pump to take with you I suggest the Road Morph or Mountain Morph.0 -
alfablue wrote:
Edit: not meaning to contradict Woolferkins, all depends what you are wanting re weight/comfort.
None takenNeil
Help I'm Being Oppressed0 -
uhm, doesnt it depend on the wheels you have..as to what size range of tyres you can fit on?
i would double check what sizes of tyre you can actually fit to your wheels...0 -
Be aware that Marathon Plus has a reputation for being a tight fit on rims. It is one of the toughest tyres made and is very hard to penetrate. As an everyday commuter tyre it is excellent and will get you to work on time. I met quite a few long distance tourists using them in 35 and 38mm sizes.
Since you wont be removing it for several years, do an inspection of the rim.
Check that the valve hole does not have a sharp edge, remove any burr with some fine emery paper.
Check that the spoke heads do not stick up into the inner tube.
Check the rim tape, if necessary, replace it with some reputable stuff like Velox.
Fit a new, good quality inner tube, my preference is for one with a threaded nut. Some of the Shraeder tubes come without them.0 -
I've been quite a dedicated mountain biker for years and riding the road for a year now and still haven't got round to buying a tyre gauge, I've just got used to using my hands to judge. Tesco do reasonable track pumps, cheap and they work. Keeping it simple.0
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MichaelW wrote:Since you wont be removing it for several years, do an inspection of the rim.
Check that the valve hole does not have a sharp edge, remove any burr with some fine emery paper.
Check that the spoke heads do not stick up into the inner tube.
Check the rim tape, if necessary, replace it with some reputable stuff like Velox.
Fit a new, good quality inner tube, my preference is for one with a threaded nut. Some of the Shraeder tubes come without them.
I do understand checking the obvious things, like making sure the spokes aren't touching the tube and that the tube and valve are 'free' when the tyre is on.
When you say I should buy a new tube, does that mean the one that comes with it won't be good enough?
I was just gonna do exactly what the fella in this video does and then hope that'd be that, but now you've got me a bit worried...0 -
You can see from your excellent video link what a bugger they are to fit.
Once fitted, the main cause of problems are from inside the tyres, not external sharp objects.
The OEM inner tube is often the cheapest they can buy in bulk. They are OK but not the best. Your tube will probably remain undisturbed for years so it is sensible to start with a high grade one from a recognised brand (Scwalbe/ Continental/ Michelin). When you fit it, make sure it points radially to the centre of the hub to avoid stressing the valve.0