Squishy rear brake
Alston251
Posts: 60
Hi all, this is my first post so please go easy on me.
I have just started mountain biking and have built myself a hard tail with a CRC brand X frame, Deore groupset and Recon silver TK forks. I ordered all parts and put together with the help of my friend.
I have been on several small rides but have realized that the rear brake is more squishy than the front. I tried bleeding them again and improvement can be felt but there is still a distinct difference between the rear brake and the front brake. I am using Shinano Deore M595 brakes with 160mm rotors front and rear on MT15 wheels. What could i do to make the rear brake more like the front one?
Any reply would be appreciated
Thank you
I have just started mountain biking and have built myself a hard tail with a CRC brand X frame, Deore groupset and Recon silver TK forks. I ordered all parts and put together with the help of my friend.
I have been on several small rides but have realized that the rear brake is more squishy than the front. I tried bleeding them again and improvement can be felt but there is still a distinct difference between the rear brake and the front brake. I am using Shinano Deore M595 brakes with 160mm rotors front and rear on MT15 wheels. What could i do to make the rear brake more like the front one?
Any reply would be appreciated
Thank you
0
Comments
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Bleed them properly.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
check calliper/rotor alignment. Check for sticking pistons.
if the rotor is too near to one side then one pad may be making contact before the other, wasting energy by bending the rotor to the opposite pad.
brake pads should be equidistant to the rotor and should hit the pad simultaneously.
Rotor should be central to the calliper, if it is off centre |] | [| ,
or twisted |] \ [| , braking effort is wasted in moving pads and rotor together.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
you could also try presetting the pistons (for want of a better phrase).
With the wheel out, gently squeeze the brake lever to move the pads in slightly, dont do this so hard that the pads touch, but just enough to set them slightly further in than normal and, allowing enough room for the rotor. Any "self-centralising" caliper will then keep the pads in that position - the pistons won't retract fully. This means once the wheel/rotor is back in place, the pads dont have to move so far to do their thing and combined with a proper bleed, everything will be sharper
hope that makes sense.0 -
i have these brakes and these wheels, and had EXACVTLY the same problem. Try bleeding them backwards, IE from caliper to lever by forcing fluid through the bleed nipple with the supplied screw in shimano bucket-thing in the lever. force the fluid through with a syringe. ten times better feel.Am i strange in that i actually ENJOY going up hills? Yes, yes i am.
PS: Full - Sussers are for SOFTIES AND BIG GIRLS0 -
How much more "squichy" is it? Rear brakes have longer hydraulic hoses, and more oil in the system, so any slight bleeding issues will show up much faster than on the front brake.0