SS new frame old forks and stuff

World\'s Dump

Hi

Me again! Over the last several months I have been collecting an assortment of bike parts for a single speed project. In hindsight though I am wishing I hadn't!

My old steel frame broke at the drop outs and I didn't want to go down the road of having it brazed as the old frame wasn't much to talk about.

1. So I bought a newish ally frame from ebay which was supposed to be a 1" steerer. It didn't have forks. I've spent some time looking for some chrome forks which I have just acquired. It seems though that perhaps the frame isn't 1" steerer and slightly wider. Dare I say it 1 1/8? so I am stuck with a wider diameter. Also the forks are threaded and the steerer column is for an ahead set. I would like to use the forks with the frame. Is there any way I can do this? Also I would like to use my old quill stem and bars. Is this possible?

2. I've also collected a rear wheel with flip flop hub but it seems that with the hyper-vertical drop outs of the new frame the wheel is obsolete. Is there any way around this?
I have bought one of those surly singleator chain tensioner in anticipation but I might as well ditch the flip flop.

Can anybody help?

Many thanks

one_bad_mofo

The design of the frame makes no difference to the headset you use. If you have threaded forks then simply get a threaded headset. If the frame actually is a 1-1/8in then you can get a set of headset reducer cups that will take it down to 1in.
Regards the wheel. You can only use a tensioner on the chain is you run a freewheel. Try it with fixed gear and it will get very messy...

mz__jo

Why do you say the rear wheel is obsolete. Is it too narrow? If so, no problem if it has a solid axle (normal for a flip-flop hub). Just add a few washers to space it to 130mm, which will be the new width for a frame with vertical drop-outs. I do that to fit my old Maillard double-fixed hub in my Gitane road frame (which does not have vertical drop-outs but is 130 width).

For the rest, in total agreement with o-b-m.
Cheers Jo

mz__jo

On the Park Tools site you will find frame cup dimensions for all the standard headsets, which helps to understand what you have in front of you (if you have a vernier or dial caliper to measure your frame). I found this very useful when I had my first contact with modern headsets with an mtb frame. Sorry I don't still have the link but google will have.

World\'s Dump

thanks for the replies. Re: the head set I'm on to that thanks. I've had a look at all the methods and means to remove and replace the headset bits (headset press and bearing cup removers) and I'm looking at headset reducers!

Talking about the rear wheel which I forgot to mention; the axle is a little short for the frame. I assumed that the best thing would be is to replace it with a wider axle by removing bearing cups etc and putting a longer/wider one in.

What I was getting at with the flip flop was that if I am only going to us a free wheel with a chain tensioner there would n't be any need for a cog on the other side so I was considering buying a normal rear wheel and spacing that out if it is needed.

I guess that is the problem with assembling bits in stages.

Thanks

mz__jo

Your flip-flop wheel will be built undished which is an advantage. You can always fit two freewheels of different sizes, one on each side. If buying a new wheel, if possible, get one for a cassette and use a ss converter then you can change sprockets or even fit two sprockets side by side and lining up the chain and ring is much easier.