Shimano RSX shifter problem (anyone have a long memory?)

unixnerd
unixnerd Posts: 2,864
edited June 2011 in Workshop
Just bought a nice old Trek for a mate to commute on, only 60 quid with some nice wheels and decent kit! It has Shimano RSX shifters, 7 speed rear and a double at the front. Rear works perfectly.

The front will change up to the big ring no problem. But it takes a few goes to change down a ring, feels like it's not catching something inside. Is this liable to be something that's worn out or just sticking? I'm tempted to flood it with penetrating oil.
http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!

Comments

  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    I have a pair of these in a box!

    There's a coiled spring sort of at the front of the rotating part. My bet is that has worked out of place or someone's had them apart and not put the spring back properly - it's a bastard!

    Sorry that's not a very good explanation.

    EDIT: you'd have to undo the Allen bolt on the front to access the spring. Wear safety goggles!
    Ben

    Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
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  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    EDIT: you'd have to undo the Allen bolt on the front to access the spring. Wear safety goggles!

    If I remove the allen bolt and cover on the front will it all spring to bits on me? Can I safely remove the cover just to lubricate the innards?

    It does work, just not all the time.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    From memory, the spring jumped out like an Alien facehugger when I serviced mine. I got it back in... eventually. Maybe look for another way of getting the lube in there.
    Ben

    Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
    Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/
  • Keith1983
    Keith1983 Posts: 575
    I've got RSX on my old Virtuoso, the fron one has locked up completely and is stuck on the big ring. The lever to change down will move but never engages and the brake lever will only brake it won't shift from side to side at all. It's a shame you don't live close by we could compare and destroy our levers tohether with the mis placed confidence that having an accomplice gives you!
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    I squirted mine full of penetrating oil from all sides last night and it's perfect now :-) Can't believe how easy it was. I had exactly the same problem as you Keith, so get some penetrating oil and give it a go!
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    unixnerd wrote:
    I squirted mine full of penetrating oil from all sides last night and it's perfect now :-) Can't believe how easy it was. I had exactly the same problem as you Keith, so get some penetrating oil and give it a go!

    I told Keith the same, yesterday.
    Left one, check the cable isn't fraying at the lever end; spray WD40 or similar around the business end.

    Right hand lever, sluggish changes to smaller sprockets (i.e. relying just on the spring in the mech) is usually a sign of friction in the cable, especially in the final bit of outer that connects to the mech, they fill with water and muck quite readily. If you disconnect the cable from the mech (or just pull it out of the cable stops) you can feel if it is running smoothly. On an older bike I expect the return spring is a bit weaker so may cope less well with cable friction. You can lube the cables, but usually its worth replacing them as improvements are usually short lived.
  • Keith1983
    Keith1983 Posts: 575
    by penetrating oil you mean WD40 or something similar?
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    WD40 is actually vegetable based and after a while turns into a yucky gummy residue. Penetrating oil is very thin oil with additives. WD40 will get the job done but might gum things up a few months later. Halfords should have both.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • Keith1983
    Keith1983 Posts: 575
    Will it just say penetrating oil on the tin? Do I just soak the whole thing in it and keep it clear of the brakes?
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    Will it just say penetrating oil on the tin?

    Yes.
    Do I just soak the whole thing in it and keep it clear of the brakes?

    Yes, make sure it doesn't drop onto the front wheel. Just squirt loads and loads into the lever from every angle you can find whilst pulling the brakes on to expose the mechanism a bit. You may need to let it soak in for an hour or two or repeat a few times.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • Mozza1
    Mozza1 Posts: 128
    Mozza still has RX100 8sp levers on his winter/wet weather bike (over 15,000 miles & millions of clicks & still going strong). Had similar problem but found it was the cable tension. I'm sure it was too slack so tightened it slightly & now ok.
    Try that........thought it was the mechanism at one point & soaked it in finish line wet lube but it didn't make any difference. It was definitely the cable tension.

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