RockShox Monarch RT3 too hard
hal18ut
Posts: 23
I’ve recently bought a full sus that came with a Monarch 3.1. First trip out and it felt really hard, despite being set to the right sag for my weight. Second trip out and I found it sagging almost to the bottom of its stroke. Pumped it up, and next day it had lost most of its air again, so back to the shop, and they replaced it with and Monarch RT3 (They couldn’t get the 3.1s through their supply chain anymore).
So, out for a ride and just like the 3.1 I found it very hard despite being set right for my weight. I’ve checked with RockShox to make sure there hasn’t been a screw up on sizing or stroke, but all seems good. After several rides, still no improvement. A trawl of the forums and I find several people also complaining about Monarchs being too hard, and discussions about lowering the IFP pressure to smooth them out.
So there I am thinking about doing it, but I’m reading around the subject on the interwebs to try and find out as much as possible so I can make an informed decision about doing this when I come across a cutaway diagram of a Monarch, and find out a bit more about the “Solo Air” feature. From what I can gather they have a ‘bleed’ point during their stroke that allows the positive and negative air chambers to equalise, so they only need one filler valve. Obviously this has an effect of reducing the shocks performance during the equalisation, but from what I’ve read this equalisation happens during a very brief instant during the shocks travel before the ‘bleed across’ gets cut off again, so it’s impact is marginal.
So I start to speculate on something. When I went to pick the bike up after the replacement shock was fitted it had been pumped right up to maximum (275psi) and left over night to check it wasn’t leaking. Then when I picked it up, it was bled back down to about 135psi which suited my weight to get the right sag (I’m light). So what I wondered is: Could the shock not be equalising? Am I too light to get the shock past its bleed point, so it’s unbalanced?
So I decided to test it. I bled the shock right down to 0psi. Then I compressed it through its stroke. And the shock pump dial climbed again to about 15psi. So I bled it again, stretched it out to full length then compressed it again. And again the pump crept up to 15psi. This happened four times in a row. After that the strokes stayed at 0psi throughout its travel.
So I pumped it back up to about 135psi, checked the sag was still good (it was) and took it for a ride. And the shock feel hugely improved. Far less harsh. Its bump compliance definitely seems much better.
I’d really like to hear from some people who know these shocks (or shocks in general) if any of this makes sense and sounds plausible. I’m sure the ride is much improved, but could have just gotten used to it. I’d also like to know if cycling the shock while deflated may have effected anything else to cause the improvement if it’s not down to pressure equalisation.
So, out for a ride and just like the 3.1 I found it very hard despite being set right for my weight. I’ve checked with RockShox to make sure there hasn’t been a screw up on sizing or stroke, but all seems good. After several rides, still no improvement. A trawl of the forums and I find several people also complaining about Monarchs being too hard, and discussions about lowering the IFP pressure to smooth them out.
So there I am thinking about doing it, but I’m reading around the subject on the interwebs to try and find out as much as possible so I can make an informed decision about doing this when I come across a cutaway diagram of a Monarch, and find out a bit more about the “Solo Air” feature. From what I can gather they have a ‘bleed’ point during their stroke that allows the positive and negative air chambers to equalise, so they only need one filler valve. Obviously this has an effect of reducing the shocks performance during the equalisation, but from what I’ve read this equalisation happens during a very brief instant during the shocks travel before the ‘bleed across’ gets cut off again, so it’s impact is marginal.
So I start to speculate on something. When I went to pick the bike up after the replacement shock was fitted it had been pumped right up to maximum (275psi) and left over night to check it wasn’t leaking. Then when I picked it up, it was bled back down to about 135psi which suited my weight to get the right sag (I’m light). So what I wondered is: Could the shock not be equalising? Am I too light to get the shock past its bleed point, so it’s unbalanced?
So I decided to test it. I bled the shock right down to 0psi. Then I compressed it through its stroke. And the shock pump dial climbed again to about 15psi. So I bled it again, stretched it out to full length then compressed it again. And again the pump crept up to 15psi. This happened four times in a row. After that the strokes stayed at 0psi throughout its travel.
So I pumped it back up to about 135psi, checked the sag was still good (it was) and took it for a ride. And the shock feel hugely improved. Far less harsh. Its bump compliance definitely seems much better.
I’d really like to hear from some people who know these shocks (or shocks in general) if any of this makes sense and sounds plausible. I’m sure the ride is much improved, but could have just gotten used to it. I’d also like to know if cycling the shock while deflated may have effected anything else to cause the improvement if it’s not down to pressure equalisation.
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Comments
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The shocks can take a while to bed in, and the valves can stick as happened with my fork: in my case it happened under compression; it did not shut so the fork just bottomed as all the air went into the negative chamber. Incidently this only started happening after I compressed the fork with the pump attached. On the fork the equalisation happens at the very top of the stroke.
Often these things need to bed in, and it seems that this was the case here: maybe the valve was sticking. If all is fine, I would leave it.
Don't forget your damping adjustments though!0 -
Sorry, I have to dissagree with Sonic here. If you've got a shock, and it's not doing what it's supposed to, get rid of it and get it replaced.
They should work from new.0 -
I'd have to agree. A 'high-tech' component should be designed for optimal performance from new. When you consider that car manufacturers build engines and drive trains that run optimal from new with no running in period, then a bike shock should be capable of doing the same.
In this case, I think the max pressure test in the shop, combined with my fairly low pressure running requirement may have found a design flaw that's 'fixable', but I'm looking for second opinions from people more knowledgable than myself.0 -
If the valves don't work until they've been run in, then running them in should be part of the manufacturing.0
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I agree that the valves should have worked to start with, if that was a case. But parts do need bedding in anyway until optimum performance is achieved (in other areas such as bushings etc).
My worry is you'll send it back, they will open it up and say it is working fine, wasting your time! But your call. If you feel it is faulty, so send it back.0 -
If all the air is going into the negative chamber, then the air spring if fugged. That's not bedding in, or not working optimally, that's just plain simple, "not working".0
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Well, that was my fork, this one I think was the opposite, all going into positive. But the shock seems to be working fine now? This is what I am saying, send it back and they'll probably say nothing wrong with it, but for peace of mind could be worth it.
My guess is that some have too thick a grease applied from new that makes the wavy washer stick and the valve to stay open/closed. Once it does move though it seems to work fine after. Not sure whether you can service the air can from home, not that you want to from new of course lol.0
