reba lockout not working
sheepsteeth
Posts: 17,418
i havent riden my 06 reba forks for a while and i got them out today to check them over before selling them.
it turns out the lock out has stopped working, the lockout is operated with a remote on the handlebars and once applied, the fork is still fully active but once released, the fork top dial fails to return back to the unlocked position, even when the remote cable is removed.
this dial can be moved back by hand, it just feels a bit gritty but i the spring return is stil working, just feels like the top cap might be gritty.
ive checked to make sure its not just me overcoming the adjustable floodgate
what could be causing this?
it turns out the lock out has stopped working, the lockout is operated with a remote on the handlebars and once applied, the fork is still fully active but once released, the fork top dial fails to return back to the unlocked position, even when the remote cable is removed.
this dial can be moved back by hand, it just feels a bit gritty but i the spring return is stil working, just feels like the top cap might be gritty.
ive checked to make sure its not just me overcoming the adjustable floodgate
what could be causing this?
0
Comments
-
Is the cable is pulling the adjuster fully clockwise?
If it is, deflate the forks and see if you can get full travel. If it seems to bottom early then sounds like the damper has leaked into the leg bottoms.
Luckily we have a fix in the FAQ ;-)0 -
-
Bit of a slow reply for me, was eating my 3/4 pound Mighty Burger ;-)0
-
haha.
well, it turns out i have discovered 2 things
1: im a mong
2: the lockout does work
i had adjusted the floodgate the wrong way.
however, i am left wondering why the fork wont return from lockout, i cant tell if it is stiff or if the spring inside (im asuming this is how it works?) has brokened?
how easy is it to find out from opening the old girl up?0 -
Just a case of taking the assembly apart and cleaning and lubing, especially the cable. IIRC you need circlip pliers to remove the top cap. Once the cap comes off should be obvious what the problem is, ie grime, or if the spring as died (the top cap turns a hex shaft underneath)0
-
ive got the cart out, the spring is in one piece and i can feel a bit of help from the spring when the control rod turns back but it is still stiff.
so the spring is fine
the friction seems to be coming from the top cap region .
can the cart itself be disassembled?0 -
It can: RS has basic guides, but you best bet is to look on MTBR.com as they have loads of Reba tips.0
-
will have a look. it seems their search function is almost as good as this one!0
-
from what i can gather, disassmbley is easy enough as long as you dont have the spring attached.
unfortunately i do nd i wonder what will happen when i remove it, will i be able to get the fecker back on :?
so, im gonna detach it any way and fit a turnkey top cap, that way, there will still be compression adjust, lockout and ext floodgate.0 -
Does your poploc have the blue adjust dial? If not I'd be tempted to unhook the spring and leave it off, so you get full comp adjustment and chuck the poploc!0
-
just got it apart, i cant see why its not working remotely, the spring must have gone weak or summat, its immaculate inside.
i removed the spring and now you can adjust the fork manually by turning the blue cap with your fingers, it is essentially like a turnkey.
off to the classifieds
0 -
The oil can cause the plastic of the cartridge to swell and make it stick. There isn't much you can do about it short of buying a new cartridge.0
-
Tank-slapper wrote:The oil can cause the plastic of the cartridge to swell and make it stick. There isn't much you can do about it short of buying a new cartridge.
aah, that makes sense, sounds like what might have happened.
i have removed the spring and retro fitted a turnkey knob from a fork i dont use any more and it is good to go.0
