SwissStop Brake pads

markwb79
markwb79 Posts: 937
edited May 2011 in Workshop
I am just about to buy some of the SwissStop Green High Performance pads, but wanted to check that they are ok on my Dura-Ace C24's wheels?

The spec says the rims are Alu/Carbon, and the pads are for use on alu rims?

Thanks
Mark
Scott Addict 2011
Giant TCR 2012

Comments

  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Braking surface is ally, green pads are for ally, so all is good.

    Great pads, I have them on my winter bike, good stoppers :)
  • markwb79
    markwb79 Posts: 937
    on your winter bike????

    Whats on your good bike then?
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Ridiculously expensive for what they are
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • markwb79
    markwb79 Posts: 937
    are they?
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Terrifyingly expensive, but mine came already fitted on a 2nd hand pair of calipers, otherwise I would never have bought them. They are great at stopping the bike though; knock the spots off the stock Shimano blocks.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Markwb79 wrote:
    on your winter bike????

    Whats on your good bike then?

    Campag, cos they came with the Campag calipers.

    The green pads are good in wet weather, which we have a bit of in the winter, which is the reason for fitting them.

    WRT comments about being ridiculously expensive for what they are - I could apply the same comment to any number of bike components if I totted up the actual cost of the materials etc, but lifes too short to worry about that sh1te.
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    Re price :Swisstop Green about £25 for 4 pads., Dura Ace pads about £18 for 4. Prices at Chain Reaction.
    The difference in the stopping power and control beween the two is massive. If you go through 3 sets in a summer (and that's a lot of miles), you are looking at £21 . I would have thought that that was good value for the increased safety and confidence gained from knowing that you have complete control on steep and long descents.
  • cornerblock
    cornerblock Posts: 3,228
    Monty Dog wrote:
    Ridiculously expensive for what they are

    What? Bits that prevent you crashing into things! :wink:
  • Evil Laugh
    Evil Laugh Posts: 1,412
    That's what I use on my c24 wheels and the performance is fantastic.

    I got my sets (4 pads) for a tenner each. So I'd say they were ridiculously cheap.

    I don't get why people say they're so expensive, they're normally only about £18 for a set of 4 if you shop around. Do people think there's only 2 in a pack or something? Seem only slightly more than the competition, if at all.
  • P_Tucker
    P_Tucker Posts: 1,878
    Nickwill wrote:
    Re price :Swisstop Green about £25 for 4 pads., Dura Ace pads about £18 for 4. Prices at Chain Reaction.
    The difference in the stopping power and control beween the two is massive. If you go through 3 sets in a summer (and that's a lot of miles), you are looking at £21 . I would have thought that that was good value for the increased safety and confidence gained from knowing that you have complete control on steep and long descents.

    I've never tried them, but HOW can there be a difference in stopping power, given that one can easily put oneself over the bars on even the cheapest, crappiest pads?
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    P_Tucker wrote:
    Nickwill wrote:
    Re price :Swisstop Green about £25 for 4 pads., Dura Ace pads about £18 for 4. Prices at Chain Reaction.
    The difference in the stopping power and control beween the two is massive. If you go through 3 sets in a summer (and that's a lot of miles), you are looking at £21 . I would have thought that that was good value for the increased safety and confidence gained from knowing that you have complete control on steep and long descents.

    I've never tried them, but HOW can there be a difference in stopping power, given that one can easily put oneself over the bars on even the cheapest, crappiest pads?
    Like good brakes on a car, good brakes on a bike are progressive. When used properly the power can be steadily applied and the brakes can exert a great deal of control. Cheap hard brake pads tend to be on or off, better ones impart 'feel' to the brakes.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    P_Tucker wrote:
    Nickwill wrote:
    Re price :Swisstop Green about £25 for 4 pads., Dura Ace pads about £18 for 4. Prices at Chain Reaction.
    The difference in the stopping power and control beween the two is massive. If you go through 3 sets in a summer (and that's a lot of miles), you are looking at £21 . I would have thought that that was good value for the increased safety and confidence gained from knowing that you have complete control on steep and long descents.

    I've never tried them, but HOW can there be a difference in stopping power, given that one can easily put oneself over the bars on even the cheapest, crappiest pads?

    See, now the Shimano pads that came with my bicycle couldn't do that (not if I was in the drops and had my ar5e hanging over the back wheel). So for me there was a difference.

    However, in line with your statement, the el-cheapo V-brake blocks I bought for my hybrid were also vastly better than the stock pads that came with the brakes...
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • P_Tucker
    P_Tucker Posts: 1,878
    Nickwill wrote:
    P_Tucker wrote:
    Nickwill wrote:
    Re price :Swisstop Green about £25 for 4 pads., Dura Ace pads about £18 for 4. Prices at Chain Reaction.
    The difference in the stopping power and control beween the two is massive. If you go through 3 sets in a summer (and that's a lot of miles), you are looking at £21 . I would have thought that that was good value for the increased safety and confidence gained from knowing that you have complete control on steep and long descents.

    I've never tried them, but HOW can there be a difference in stopping power, given that one can easily put oneself over the bars on even the cheapest, crappiest pads?
    Like good brakes on a car, good brakes on a bike are progressive. When used properly the power can be steadily applied and the brakes can exert a great deal of control. Cheap hard brake pads tend to be on or off, better ones impart 'feel' to the brakes.

    That's a different argument. I was referring specifically to stopping power - as I stated.

    Regardless, it must be me, but I find I can control my braking to my satisfaction with £5 pads, let alone the DA ones on my race bike. But like I say, I've not tried the swissstops; I must admit I'm tempted just to see what I might be missing.
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    No, it isn't a different argument!
    Cheaper pads lock up because as I said, they are either on or off ,so you can't use the full braking power. Better pads allow you to apply the brakes in such a way that you can stop in a much shorter time and can scrub the speed off much more quickly.

    I briefly had a pair of cheap BBB pads on my bike and I was getting dropped on descents because I didn't feel able to commit myself into corners in the same way. I also had a couple of touch and go moments on down hill junctions when I nearly didn't stop on time. A return to the Swisstop pads felt almost like getting a new bike because full control was re-established.

    I suppose it depends on how and where you ride, but I regard them as the most cost effective upgrade you can make to a bike! If you haven't tried them I suggest you give them a go.
  • APIII
    APIII Posts: 2,010
    Cheapo pads may be prone to fade under continuous breaking
  • Ron Stuart
    Ron Stuart Posts: 1,242
    Check out these... http://www.dotbike.com/p/7584 image 6 of 6 the BBS-23T :wink:
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    Ron Stuart wrote:
    Check out these... http://www.dotbike.com/p/7584 image 6 of 6 the BBS-23T :wink:

    These are the blocks i mentioned previously. They are very poor. They seem like quite a hard compound they don't stop you very effectively and they leave your rims coated in grey sludge. I'm afraid you get what you pay for!
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    I went down Rosedale Chimney with BBB blocks. It was absolutely lethal. They were OK until they warmed up a bit. They were then either off or locking up. I binned them as soon as I got home. I now use Koolstop Salmon on my bikes. They work very well on all except the rims on my Madone 5.2 which do not modulate so well (no idea why). Koolstop Black work fine on that. They cost around £7 a pair so are not expensive.
  • Ron Stuart
    Ron Stuart Posts: 1,242
    Nickwill wrote:
    Ron Stuart wrote:
    Check out these... http://www.dotbike.com/p/7584 image 6 of 6 the BBS-23T :wink:

    These are the blocks i mentioned previously. They are very poor. They seem like quite a hard compound they don't stop you very effectively and they leave your rims coated in grey sludge. I'm afraid you get what you pay for!

    Not a compound here but three compounds and you get grey sludge from Dura Ace cartridges.
    Thinks maybe you are referring to another type of BBB cartridge?

    Check out this review.... http://road.cc/content/review/12663-bbb ... brake-pads

    Dura Ace similar price... http://www.parker-international.co.uk/1 ... Cartridges

    and squelled like made on fast descents for me.
  • Ron Stuart
    Ron Stuart Posts: 1,242
    John.T wrote:
    I went down Rosedale Chimney with BBB blocks. It was absolutely lethal. They were OK until they warmed up a bit. They were then either off or locking up. I binned them as soon as I got home. I now use Koolstop Salmon on my bikes. They work very well on all except the rims on my Madone 5.2 which do not modulate so well (no idea why). Koolstop Black work fine on that. They cost around £7 a pair so are not expensive.

    BBB do many versions of cartridge are you sure we are talking about the same thing?
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    Apologies Ron, serves me right for not looking at the link carefully enough! :oops:
  • Scrumple
    Scrumple Posts: 2,665
    Brakes will squeal if you don't toe them in.....

    Something I had no idea about at first!!
  • Ron Stuart
    Ron Stuart Posts: 1,242
    Scrumple wrote:
    Brakes will squeal if you don't toe them in.....

    Something I had no idea about at first!!

    This will work with new cartridges but after a while with wear more on the trailing edge(front) the toe-in disappears because the trailing edge wears down stlightly quicker than the rest of the block and once again becomes parallel to rim. Often the squeal doesn't return but with some rim/compound interfaces it does and may only be apparent when the rim heats up (hot day long hairpin descents).
    Do not try and bend caliper inwards at trailing edge this once was a trick with steel calipers but don't try on alloy!
    Some folk resort to filling the block down to create a wedge this is very hit and miss and may well produce hollows etc and reduce the braking surface area.
    In my experience just a change of cartridge type did the trick and I continued using the original type on the front as the squeal was just apparent on the rear. :)
  • MattJWL
    MattJWL Posts: 147
    APIII wrote:
    Cheapo pads may be prone to fade under continuous breaking
    Yes, and when you're on an Apline descent like I was yesterday, it can make for a brown-shorts moment or two...
    Intense Carbine SL
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