Glued BB - Kirk Revolution specific
donfisher
Posts: 5
Hi,
I've got a 1992 Kirk Revolution 200GS, it's still standard in terms of drivetrain.
I gave it a good clean and oil a couple of weeks ago and recently the drive side of the BB has worked loose. The cup was sticking out about 1/2 an inch.
According to this website:
http://www.kirk-bicycles.co.uk/Kirk-Facts.htm
"Pre-threaded alloy inserts were used in the bottom brackets"
Also
"Panels and fixings were hot glued into frames, via a conveyor belt and oven system."
I was not at home so took it to a LBS who have pulled it to bits and have discovered that the non-drive side is normal and OK, however the drive side seems to have no way of securing the cup other than with glue as the above fact would suggest.
Do you think that the use of araldite or similar will be enough or does it need to be "hot glued" whatever that means.
Thanks in advance
Don
I've got a 1992 Kirk Revolution 200GS, it's still standard in terms of drivetrain.
I gave it a good clean and oil a couple of weeks ago and recently the drive side of the BB has worked loose. The cup was sticking out about 1/2 an inch.
According to this website:
http://www.kirk-bicycles.co.uk/Kirk-Facts.htm
"Pre-threaded alloy inserts were used in the bottom brackets"
Also
"Panels and fixings were hot glued into frames, via a conveyor belt and oven system."
I was not at home so took it to a LBS who have pulled it to bits and have discovered that the non-drive side is normal and OK, however the drive side seems to have no way of securing the cup other than with glue as the above fact would suggest.
Do you think that the use of araldite or similar will be enough or does it need to be "hot glued" whatever that means.
Thanks in advance
Don
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Comments
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i would find an engineer as there are some very good metal glues available now.
Eg many of the Lotus cars chassis/monocoque are glued rather than welded."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
nicklouse wrote:Eg many of the Lotus cars chassis/monocoque are glued rather than welded.
It's a good point, cheers.
He's glued it back together and I'll see how I get on with it (will also find out what he's used). If it fails again I'll try to find somewhere that can properly bond it.0 -
BMW use a specific 3M adhesive to glue the carbon roof panel onto the M3 CSL. Very strong bonding agent.0
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Flashback! I owned a new one of these in 1992, black with cerise(NOT PINK, OK!!?) rigid forks.
Cracking bike at the time bar the rumours of failures of the mag alloy around the headsets!0 -
lvquestpaddler wrote:Flashback! I owned a new one of these in 1992, black with cerise(NOT PINK, OK!!?) rigid forks.
Cracking bike at the time bar the rumours of failures of the mag alloy around the headsets!
As did I but with the mauve frame and black forks. It got nicked though back in '95 so when an identical model came up for sale I had to get it. It's bloody heavy and wobbles all over the place but it makes it quite comfy for the commute considering it has no suspension.
He used araldite and it came back out on the way to work this morning. Not as much as before though. Will have a look into a different bonding agent and perpaps a differnt type of BB. Trouble is that because of the way that area flexes below the elevated chainstay there could be a danger of damaging the hole for the BB at the bottom of the seat tube over time. :?
Back to the drawing board anyway.0 -
what cranks and BB?
as it is a commute bike I am hoping it is a Square taper BB?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
nicklouse wrote:what cranks and BB?
as it is a commute bike I am hoping it is a Square taper BB?
Have to say it was a wicked looking bike.
@ OP - go look at an engineering suppliers like RS: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&binCount=71&Ne=4294957561&N=4294962344+4294955390
They should be able to advise you which is the best adhesive to use, how to prepare the area to be bonded (very important) and then sell you the stuff to do it. If you shop around the net you might be able to find some of the stuff they stock cheaper, but I'd pay an extra bit for the advice.
cheers
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MattJWL wrote:Have to say it was a wicked looking bike.
Yep, it's square taper but the treads on either side of the BB screw into cups that were glued into the tube. On the drive side you can see that the half of the cup has moved out towards the chainset and the crank has now got a bit of play in it.
I wonder if perhaps I was a bit too liberal with the GT85 recently and it's broken down the original bonding. It’s been fine for 20 odd years and a year or so in my care so think it's a bit too much of a coincidence that all of a sudden it's decided to work itself free.
I've looked at that "tales from the bike shop thread" - which is superb btw - I don't think a chase & face is an option or appropriate. :?
Thanks for the tip on RS. Will see what they say. My engineering knowledge isn’t too great so would be good to get an idea of whether the frame material is/would make a difference to what bonding I need to use.0