Bails' Carbon 456

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  • bails87bails87 Posts: 13,317
    crazy88
    I'm about a mm short of 6 foot, but I've got quite long legs, 33 inch inside leg I think. The Reverb (380mm) is pretty close to the minimum insertion line, but if you could get a 400 or 450mm seatpost that would obviously give you some extra length. Depends on your weight as well, Although if you've got a tall/long body, you might be better off with a longer frame. It's easy to adjust for long/short legs, adjusting for a long/short upper body is harder because a longer/shorter stem affects handling.

    As for the chainset, it's a middleburn inner ring and a cheapo Shimano (Alivio?) steel middle/outer. 24t and 38t respectively, and with an 11-34t cassette it's spot on. I use the middle ring for everything except steep and/or sustained climbs.

    I forgot to say, after the initial wheel problems, this replacement pair are still going strong. Perfectly true despite not giving them a particularly easy ride.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • crazy88crazy88 Posts: 569
    I seem to think my inside leg is also 33", I'll have to get it measured sometime. Don't have a piece of string at the moment :D I was under the impression that a 456 was a long frame? When compared to my GT the seat tube length is a little smaller, but it's definitely longer to the bars. I have a 410mm thomson layback for my gt, and that was still a fair way off the minimum line. Problem is that it's a 27.2mm and the 456 is a 31.6mm (off the top of my head). I did consider using a shim, but might just use another seat post that's the correct diameter.

    One of my main reasons for wanting a 1x9 (aside from the simplicity/ weight saving etc) is the fear of chain suck killing the chain stay. Have you ever had it yet? I'll cover the chainstay with an old innertube which would hopefully help a bit.
    Out with the old, in with the new here.
  • bails87bails87 Posts: 13,317
    crazy88 wrote:
    I was under the impression that a 456 was a long frame?
    The 20" would have been shorter than my old 20" boardman. The 20" 456 is 609mm and the 18" is 600mm.
    I did consider using a shim, but might just use another seat post that's the correct diameter.
    The On One Twelfty seaposts are very nicely made, I'd recommend one of those.
    One of my main reasons for wanting a 1x9 (aside from the simplicity/ weight saving etc) is the fear of chain suck killing the chain stay. Have you ever had it yet? I'll cover the chainstay with an old innertube which would hopefully help a bit.

    Yep :(

    The small chainring was worn, (which is what led to me changing to a 2x9 setup) and it sucked the chain up and wedged it in pretty hard. There are some scrapes on the carbon, and I'd rather they weren't there, but no sign of any damage spreading, no creaks or anything. The bike is overbuilt anyway so I'm sure it'll be fine.....I hope!

    There wasn't much clearance between the chainrings and chainstay btw, I tried to extend my innertube chainstay protector to right up against the BB/seatpost, to protect from chain damage, but it caught on the chainrings so I had to trim it back.

    You might be able to do a small section just in the 'chainsuck zone', then do another section to protect from chainslap. I had some copter tape on th ebit that got damaged but the chain went straight through it. If you could make one out of metal and find a way of attaching it then that would be ideal.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • crazy88crazy88 Posts: 569
    You've got me second guessing the frame length of my GT top tube now, haha. It's not at my house at the moment though, as i'm decorating my house my mate has kindly stored it in his garage for me. I might take a look online to see whether I can find the frame geometry anywhere for the GT.

    As for the seatpost, I have heard they're good, and I guess the slight layback will only help with cockpit length anyway. I was going to order a singlespeed chainring from them for the 1x9 setup, so think I might stick that on the order too. At £20 thery're cheap as chips.

    I think I will go down the 1x9 route to be honest, I can't see myself needing the granny ring a lot, and i'd rather occasionally walk up a hill than buy a new frame :lol: I haven't used my granny ring for months, the front mech is shagged and it is a real pain in the censored to get it to shift down to the granny, so it's been good practice for not using it.

    EDIT: Struggling to find my specific geometry online, but found here http://www.gtbicycles.com/gbr/bikes/mou ... lver-white.

    I have an aggressor xc2 (2009 or 10, can't remember which). If I ASSUME that the new aggressors are the same top tube length it puts my 18" at 594.94mm. Compared to the 600mm of my 456 it gives me an extra 5mm. Which for gorilla arms here is only a good thing. :)

    Plus, i've done a few big rides on the GT and not had any problems, so i'm hoping all is well and that the size is about right. Justification and all that :lol:
    Out with the old, in with the new here.
  • bails87bails87 Posts: 13,317
    Yeah, sounds like it'll be fine, and if you can live without a granny ring then 1x9 should be good, lighter, less maintenence. Will you be using a proper chainguide?
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • crazy88crazy88 Posts: 569
    That's the big question though. That's what originally drew me to all the 456 threads in here, in the hope that i'd see what you all used. I'm so torn between the xcr one, or the plasma device. XCR is cheap, plasma is more expensive, heavier, but looks cooler and i'd guess does a better job. But, i only really ride trail centres, so not sure whether it's overkill.

    The less maintenance on the front derailleur sounds like a winner. Ever since I had it ive had to fettle the front mech, and it does my head in! Possibly I got a dodgy one or it got damaged etc, but not having one must be easier, lol.
    Out with the old, in with the new here.
  • fat_homerfat_homer Posts: 470
    bails87 wrote:
    fat_homer wrote:
    You weren't at Cannock on Saturday where you?

    I was, and I recognise that green Cube of yours. Did I pass you at the top of the final descent on the Monkey? then you were sitting around at the bottom with a couple of other guys?
    Yep that was us, not sure at the top but I defiantly remember you rapidly catching me on the way down, good job I was nearly at the bottom.

    The 456 looks even better in the flesh, the pictures don't do it justice. Nice pink socks by the way 8)
  • bails87bails87 Posts: 13,317
    Thinking about it, it might have been another Cube at the top, but I remember yours because I hadn't seen one that colour before.

    And the socks:
    33664.jpg
    Ooo yeah! :lol:
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • bails87bails87 Posts: 13,317
    The socks were speaking the truth on Sunday. I beat all the black graded rock bits at Cannock, which is a first.

    The bike is still going strong. no more changes, but everything's working as it should, and it's being a right hoot with it! :D
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • how are you finding those Rockshox Revelation RLT Ti forks?? do you think they are worth the extra 20-30mm over 120mm rebas?

    nice bike by the way, not too flashy either :)
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • bails87bails87 Posts: 13,317
    I haven't ridden it with shorter forks, but I had a Boardman HT with Rebas extended to 115mm before this.

    Compared to that, this is just more fun and confidence inspiring, no idea how much of that is to do with the forks, but it feels like it would be a shame to buy a frame like this and then put under 130mm of travel on it.

    As I've said before, it doesn't struggle up hills, even with 150mm, the front can start to wander on really steep stuff, but if I remember to keep my head down and to drop my wrists so I don't yank the bars upwards it stays planted. On the flat it's no slower in terms of actual speed or handling than the Boardman, in fact the whole setup feels like it be 'stuck' into corners with much more confidence. And when it's time to bash back down the other side, you've got that little bit of extra squish to keep things under control.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
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