Best frame and wheels for climbing.

flynnpa
flynnpa Posts: 15
edited May 2011 in Road buying advice
Hiya - Am looking to upgrade my Roubaix Pro - which is great - as I had discovered weirdly - I am happiest in big mountains climbing, Pyrenees, Dales etc. Am 173cm, stocky, climb well for my weight and looking to drop from 82kg to 78kg. Am thoughts from you experts. And any thoughts of wheels/tyres much appreciated too. Happy to acquire top end kit second hand too, so don;t get to worried about cost if it's widely available on ebay pre-owned. Thanks for your help.

Comments

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    I'd go Cervelo R3SL or R5 with Mavic RSys SL wheels. Vittoria Corsa Evo CX or Conti Force/Attack tyres with latex tubes...
  • bam49
    bam49 Posts: 159
    I would recommend Felt F1 SL with Dura Ace 7850 wheels - works very well for me :) , I used to have a Roubaix Elite with a triple and 12-25.. On the Felt I use a standard double with 12-27 , I'm quicker on the climbs and have never had to walk up a hill on it so far in the Etape du Dales, Dartmoor Classic, Tour of Dartmoor etc etc...
    I picked up someones brand new BMC the other day - supposedly 6k's worth - my Felt was as light or lighter..
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    bam49 wrote:
    I would recommend Felt F1 SL with Dura Ace 7850 wheels - works very well for me :) , I used to have a Roubaix Elite with a triple and 12-25.. On the Felt I use a standard double with 12-27 , I'm quicker on the climbs and have never had to walk up a hill on it so far in the Etape du Dales, Dartmoor Classic, Tour of Dartmoor etc etc...
    I picked up someones brand new BMC the other day - supposedly 6k's worth - my Felt was as light or lighter..

    Weight isn't the be all and end all. Many protour bikes weigh over 7kg... Stiffness, geometry and ride quality are more important to me...
  • vs
    vs Posts: 468
    I'm 5' 11" and around 10 stone and I'm now riding a Viner Maxima RS with Campagnolo Shamals.

    The bike climbs (and descends) superbly, it's not the lightest frame - around 1090g but extremely stiff and more comfortable than the Trek 5500 it replaced (which I had ridden 100,000 miles on and was like an armchair).
  • bam49
    bam49 Posts: 159
    NapoleonD wrote:
    bam49 wrote:
    I would recommend Felt F1 SL with Dura Ace 7850 wheels - works very well for me :) , I used to have a Roubaix Elite with a triple and 12-25.. On the Felt I use a standard double with 12-27 , I'm quicker on the climbs and have never had to walk up a hill on it so far in the Etape du Dales, Dartmoor Classic, Tour of Dartmoor etc etc...
    I picked up someones brand new BMC the other day - supposedly 6k's worth - my Felt was as light or lighter..

    Weight isn't the be all and end all. Many protour bikes weigh over 7kg... Stiffness, geometry and ride quality are more important to me...

    I agree they are important ( no complaints with those 3 factors on the Felt btw), but if the guy is mainly into / loves climbing then a lightweight bike and wheelset makes a lot of sense..The Felt is less twitchy than the Roubaix I had before ( no surprise there really with a lower front end/ shorter head tube ), and feels more planted in the corners.. Not quite as plush a ride as a Roubaix but no boneshaker thats for sure..
  • Chip \'oyler
    Chip \'oyler Posts: 2,323
    vs wrote:
    I'm 5' 11" and around 10 stone and I'm now riding a Viner Maxima RS with Campagnolo Shamals.

    The bike climbs (and descends) superbly, it's not the lightest frame - around 1090g but extremely stiff and more comfortable than the Trek 5500 it replaced (which I had ridden 100,000 miles on and was like an armchair).

    Good choice Sir :)
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  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    vs wrote:
    I'm 5' 11" and around 10 stone and I'm now riding a Viner Maxima RS with Campagnolo Shamals.

    At those stats you should be flying up hills even on a Chopper!
  • FransJacques
    FransJacques Posts: 2,148
    The bike has gotta handle well so you can go down the other side - It's fun to pass 70kg sissies at 80kph :-)

    Seriously, trash talking aside, a lot of heavier guys get back on to the lighter climbers down the other side via fluid descending so you're back to a more all-round bike with a strong front end, nice stiff wheels, strong brakes, and durable tyres.

    Colnagos and DeRosas handle brilliantly, DeRosas have some of the lowest BBs around which I think is their secret. And one of my best descending experiences was passing 100+ people down a rainy slick Tourmalet in the 08 etape. The confidence in knowing the bike (a Ti Colnago) well (and the descent well) helped. Colnagos have sublime front ends. Big difference in my experience between this and a Focus, Giant or Cervelo carbon frame.

    For just an uphill bike, say for a TT people ride a fixie with a front brake and no cages or bar tape. Get yourself one of those if you only want to go up.
    When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.
  • speshsteve
    speshsteve Posts: 352
    vs wrote:
    I'm 5' 11" and around 10 stone and I'm now riding a Viner Maxima RS with Campagnolo Shamals.

    The bike climbs (and descends) superbly, it's not the lightest frame - around 1090g but extremely stiff and more comfortable than the Trek 5500 it replaced (which I had ridden 100,000 miles on and was like an armchair).

    100,000 miles that is seriously impressive, I doth my cap to you sir
    My Marmotte 2012 Blog:
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  • vs
    vs Posts: 468
    100,000 miles that is seriously impressive, I doth my cap to you sir

    Cheers. Most were done on Exmoor, so I reckon with about 1000 feet ascent per 10 miles of cycling I've climbed about 10 million feet.
  • IanTrcp
    IanTrcp Posts: 761
    NapoleonD wrote:
    I'd go Cervelo R3SL or R5 with Mavic RSys SL wheels. Vittoria Corsa Evo CX or Conti Force/Attack tyres with latex tubes...

    Like mine: http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=12773362 :D
  • wicked
    wicked Posts: 844
    All this talk of light parts and climbing wheels but you weigh 82kg? Why not lose some weight it costs bugger all and it is much cheaper. A lighter set of wheels is going to make bugger all difference when you are carrying that much timber.
    It’s the most beautiful sport in the world but it’s governed by ***ts who have turned it into a crock of ****.
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    I've a pair of Attack/ Force on my fulcrum wheels and have found them to be excellent so far. Suspect the rear will wear quite quickly but they seem ten times more robust than the Vittoria Corsa's which are a dream ride until they p***ture, which they will!
    (Should admit to being over 13 stone which will no doubt have an influence on p888ture resistance....). I can see me sticking with the Conti's, albeit the Vittoria Open Pave's on my R-Sys are fab too.

    Peter
  • huuregeil
    huuregeil Posts: 780
    FransJacques speaks the truth! Add to that list of frames Merckx (heavily influenced by DeRosa) and Ridley, these are two frame makers who value ride stability, handling and front end stiffness over raw weight. If you don't believe the difference geometry and frame stiffness can have on descending ability, take an unladen tourer on some fast descents - the combination of low BBs, extended wheelbases, and decent frame/fork sitffness, makes them bullets going downhill!
  • spanielsson
    spanielsson Posts: 776
    I love my Cervelo R3's (I currently own two), it's fantastic up and downhill. Super stiff, smooth over rougher roads and a far better ride than my 2008 Trek Madone I had before it. I'm more suited to climbing, the choice of an R3 was a no brainer for me.

    As for wheels, the Shimano RS80's are getting decent value for money reviews. I'd personally recommend Continental Force/Attack tyres or GP4000s, I've used all and rate them in all conditions for training, racing and recreational use.

    The frameset from this bike may be for sale in the next week or two, it is in your size :wink:

    DSC_0002-24.jpg
  • flynnpa
    flynnpa Posts: 15
    spanielsson
    Thanks for reply - let me know re Framset p@peteflynn.com
  • flynnpa
    flynnpa Posts: 15
    Many thanks for all replies. As to weight, if I get down to 78kg - body fat c 6%. Different human frameset my friend. To everyone else, many thanks for your assistance and any more ideas, am all ears.
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Your pretty heavy for your height. Just get your body weight down to 70kg's or less, then worry about the bike.
  • wicked
    wicked Posts: 844
    flynnpa wrote:
    Many thanks for all replies. As to weight, if I get down to 78kg - body fat c 6%. Different human frameset my friend. To everyone else, many thanks for your assistance and any more ideas, am all ears.

    Quite. You are a similar height to me and 20kg heavier, but a 100g lighter frameset or "climbing wheels" will make you climb like a homesick angel. Not trying to offend you.
    It’s the most beautiful sport in the world but it’s governed by ***ts who have turned it into a crock of ****.
  • flynnpa
    flynnpa Posts: 15
    wicked wrote:
    flynnpa wrote:
    Many thanks for all replies. As to weight, if I get down to 78kg - body fat c 6%. Different human frameset my friend. To everyone else, many thanks for your assistance and any more ideas, am all ears.

    Quite. You are a similar height to me and 20kg heavier, but a 100g lighter frameset or "climbing wheels" will make you climb like a homesick angel. Not trying to offend you.

    Thanks anorexic man. If I lose 4 kg, I'd be whip lean. But you'd still be a rude c?nt. Not trying to offend you either Dave.
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Alrite, calm down fatty! :wink:

    He's right though, thats the best way to be quicker up the hills, not by losing 100g of weight on your wheels.
  • wicked
    wicked Posts: 844
    flynnpa wrote:
    wicked wrote:
    flynnpa wrote:
    Many thanks for all replies. As to weight, if I get down to 78kg - body fat c 6%. Different human frameset my friend. To everyone else, many thanks for your assistance and any more ideas, am all ears.

    Quite. You are a similar height to me and 20kg heavier, but a 100g lighter frameset or "climbing wheels" will make you climb like a homesick angel. Not trying to offend you.

    Thanks anorexic man. If I lose 4 kg, I'd be whip lean. But you'd still be a rude c?nt. Not trying to offend you either Dave.

    No offence taken Pete. :wink: Fatboy. :D
    It’s the most beautiful sport in the world but it’s governed by ***ts who have turned it into a crock of ****.
  • simon johnson
    simon johnson Posts: 1,064
    edited May 2011
    Stiff frame = shorter wheelbase is apparently the way to go for a climber....I can't back this up with numbers, tests etc so if it's nonsense then I'll surely be told.

    Wheels: look for lighter rotating mass ie rims. And at that weight :D something to keep the wheel laterally stiff when the power goes down.

    Heard good things about C-4 hubs for stiffness (wide flanges), so these with a pait of stan's alpha rims and some strong sapim spokes should work out.

    Coming from a 172cm ex 83kg; no rolls of flab on me at that point either!
    Where\'s me jumper?
  • desmosedici
    desmosedici Posts: 117
    I used my Look 586 Pro Team with Fulcrum Racing Zeroes for climbing rides. The handling of the frame was confidence inspiring on the downhills, and the bike wasn't a slouch going uphill either.
  • Bozman
    Bozman Posts: 2,518
    I'm a heavy jockey at 80kg (due to swiimming earlier on in life) and i'd struggle to lose more than a few Kgs to aid climbing, I use a Look 585 Ultra with a set of SLs which i find stiff, light at around 15.5lb and great for climbing.

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