Got a question for Cycling Plus experts? Ask it here!

rob_spedding
rob_spedding Posts: 442
edited July 2018 in Road buying advice
We're after your cycling questions - we want your queries on bike and gear buying, training, nutrition, injury, racing...basically anything about bikes and biking. You can either post your question here or email us with the subject Reader Rescue at cyclingplus@futurenet.com
Rob Spedding, Editor, Cycling Plus
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Comments

  • dave c r
    dave c r Posts: 1
    I have read your write up and am now wanting a Raleigh SP race carbon @ £1800. I am 5'-11" tall, 34" inside leg, 12st-7lb and reasonably supple (not sure that makes a difference). I sat on a 56cm and it seems a long stretch, but was assured by sales rep it is the correct size. Should I buy this and consider a shorter stem, or go for a 54cm with saddle right up? I think I may be between sizes, are there any drawbacks to a bike slightly too small or large. Dave c r.
  • rob_spedding
    rob_spedding Posts: 442
    Thanks Dave

    We'll look into it for you

    Rob
    Rob Spedding, Editor, Cycling Plus
  • tenor
    tenor Posts: 278
    We often read in C+ that cranks with a narrow Q factor is a good thing.
    What is the evidence?
    What is a good Q value?
    Should you publish values in crank tests?
    Does the dimension relate to hip width and other varaibles of anatomy?
  • gooch134
    gooch134 Posts: 2
    I am looking to upgrade my Chainset from a Shiamano Tiagra4500 52/38T L175mm.

    I am curious to know could I install one with a crank length of 180mm. What would that do for me? I am hoping it would incease my power output (hence longer crank easier to peddle). I am sure things are not be that simple.

    I am looking at the Dura Ace 7900 crank shaft, L180 53/39T. This has got an extra tooth on the front, more than my tiagra set. I assume this would make my lowest gear slightly harder to rotate. My cassette is a tiagre 11-25T. I do not struggle with the gears too much even on hills so I believe I could sacrifice my lowest gear. I may reduce my cassette in time to an 11-23, maybe 12-21. But I would only consider droping from an 11-25T cassette if I was sure that I would be getting extra leverage from my crank shaft of 180mm.

    Since any upgrade of mine would start with a crank shaft, I need your help as I need to pick a suitable one.
  • Hi Rob,

    I have posted a similar question on another forum but then came across your forum and thought you may be able to advise me.

    I am basically stuck between trying and buying a Cube Attempt 2011 compact or a Focus Cayo 105, they are priced very similarly and the main differences seem to be the Cayo has a carbon frame and the the Attempt has an aluminium frame with what looks like a better wheel/ tyre combo??

    The bike will mainly be for commuting and long weekend rides aswell as attempting to complete the LEJOG next year.

    I
    Any advice would be very much appreciated.

    Thanks and kind regards

    Nick
  • bmeaden
    bmeaden Posts: 3
    Hi - I'm looking at getting an aluminium frame, carbon fork road bike, want to take advantage of the ride to work scheme and just top up a little. So far I've got it down to two bikes, but struggling for reviews to help me chose.

    Ghost Race 5000
    Pinarello FP1

    I'd really appreciate a little advice
  • Berk Bonebonce
    Berk Bonebonce Posts: 1,245
    I do not think that the Cycling Plus 'experts' are expert enough to be asking them for expert cycling advice.
  • bmeaden wrote:
    Hi - I'm looking at getting an aluminium frame, carbon fork road bike, want to take advantage of the ride to work scheme and just top up a little.

    Under the scheme you aren't able to top up payment. It all has to be paid for by your employer. Your employer is essentially buying the bike and hiring it to you (paid for by your salary sacrifice), and in order to take advantage of the tax breaks your employer must be the sole owner of the bike. Your employer can take out a consumer credit license if the bike is more than £1000 and you'll still get all the tax breaks.

    Can't help with the bike reviews, haven't ridden either, but have recently gone through the whole rigmarole of getting a bike through C2W :)
    Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.
  • hi there the bike i am riding at the moment is a barracuda 16 speed road bike 13x23 39 x53 my first road bike thing is i am struggling on the hills . i know i'am not fit yet because i like weight training as well i weigh in at 98kgs at 5ft 7in but have lost 7 pounds . was told the gearing was far to high for me advised me to change my cassette to a 13x28 or put a compact on or both is a straight forward fix ?
  • leedow19
    leedow19 Posts: 29
    I have a shiny new set of wheels but I need a new cassette for them. I have had a look at the one on my old wheels but it doesn't seem to give any information about the gear range. How do I find out? Also, how do I find out what type of Shimano Ultegra groupset I have as this compromises the compatability I do believe?
  • waza194
    waza194 Posts: 1
    Hi Rob, I'm thinking about buying a Dura Ace groupset (7900) for my bike. Do you know when Shimano are planning on releasing a new model? It's ben 2 years since 7900 and with Di2 just released, it seems likely that a new one will be imminent.

    Regards,


    W.
  • Can you advise me if changing from 7 speed to 10 speed cassette requires the changing of all the groupset is necessary. I have an old Basso frame with Shimano 600 crankset with Campagnolo rear and front derailleur. I have a 7 speed cassette with two spacers behind the cassette. The wheel a Mavic Aksium 2010. Am I going about it the wrong way or should I just cut my losses and leave it at 7 or 8 speed.

    Best Regards,

    Dave

    P.S. Apologies for the long winded post but it's my first time.
  • Hi Chaps
    I've recently discovered that you can ride on roads as well as mud but that my olde Voodoo Zobop is not ideally suited to long rides.
    I've bought a Kaffenback frame from the classifieds and want to kit it with flat bars, lots of gears (suitable for steep hills in the saddle and zooming down the other side) strong wheels/brakes etc. (As much 2nd hand as possible)
    so....
    (a) can I mix MTB kit (freewheel, rear mechs etc) with roadie kit (silly skinny wheels, etc)
    and
    (b) would you like to feature it in a future story?

    Cheers
    Paul

    (Hills are only as steep as you want them to be... m. sauce, 1994?) remember?
  • Hello.
    I'm building a roadbike around the Charge Juicer frame. Since this is my roadbike (I do have a cyclocrosser) I thought I might ask for Your opinion on the wheelset -issue.

    First of all, I'm a bit on the heavy side - ~94kg, and not planning to loose anything from that. So around 100kg while clothed for the Finnish summer. What I'm lookin for is a pair of longlasting wheels that can handle my weight and my budget is somewhere around 200-220£ (max 250€). Something that would suit the Juicer frame nicely.
    What would You suggest?

    At the moment internetstores a pushing out this years models with good discounts, so the msrp might be a bit over the budget range mentioned above.

    Hope You could give some hints.
    -H
  • This seems to be a very tricky question and the more research I do, the less clear it is. Problem is, people tend to answere in accordance with their own preference. What I'm after from you is the general issues so I can balance it all out.

    So what really is the advantage of one over the other - carbon v aluminium.

    My budget will be in the region of £1500, so I know I can get very well specced examples of both.

    My riding - I I like distance more than speed, but also like to be able to post some good speed stats to. I have ridden a few centuries, but generally average out about 20-30 miles per ride. However I struggle to get above 15-16mph average over these distances. Current bike is aluminium, which at some cost have managed to get down to 9.1kg.

    I'm 6 feet tall and 180 pounds, I would like the bike to be light, but it seems that aluminium can be just as light as carbon. The roads I ride are paid for by the council tax and car tax payer being defrauded out of our money - in other words not particularly good. Generally rolling hills in Kent, with some quite steep but mercifully short.

    Can you provide or at least point me in the right direction of some simple understanding of the benefits of one over the other, rather than the "I've got ??????so it must be brilliant" version of advice.

    Once I know whether its carbon or aluminium that is likely to suit me best than I get set about the "simple" task of choosing my bike!!!
    Some people are like slinkies - not much use for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.

    http://knownothingbozoandhisbike.blogspot.com/
  • After lots searching and looking around and test rides i’ve picked the Felt Z100 for my first foray into road cycling. I've now done a few local sportives 60 - 100 miles and I'm looking for a little extra speed. I've changed the tyres to Schwalbe Ultremo ZX Kevlar 23x622 and I'm now looking to change the wheels. What do you think would be my best options for around £150. As a first time rider any advice would be a great help. This maybe a stupid/novice question but can i upgrade the cassette to a 10 speed without changing any of the other components?
  • Hi, I recently bought a second hand bike and it has tubeless tires and of course tubeless rims which are slightly slimmer in width than regular ones; I'd like to know if I'm able to use town and country tires with inner tubes on these rims?
    Someone in a bike shop told me yes but I'm not convinced.
    Thanks, Andrew.
  • Hi Guys, I've gone for it and traded in the Bianchi via nirone for a Cube Agree GTC race. The question is the Cube comes with Easton EA50 aero wheels & Schwalbe ulremo zx tyres but i've kept the wheels i was using on the Bianchi which where Mavic Ksyrum Equipe with Michelin Krylion carbon tyres. So which are the better wheelset? i mainly ride Sundays (50-70m) and the odd sportive.
    Thanks
    Richard
  • Burno
    Burno Posts: 5
    I've just bought a boardman cx team to commute to work and the occasional leisure ride. Not ridden in a very long time and I want to get back into it. My questions are numerous! Firstly I'm looking at helmets and oh my god is there a lot of choice!!! I've been browsing the bikeradar reviews and I've looked at the specialized propero & propero II, boardman road bike helmet, giro, met stradivarius, inferno... uhh the list goes on! I'm loathed to spend anything more than £65! But I've seen the Specialized S-works Prevail Team Htc Highroad Cycle Helmet 2011 for £90! Tempted! I have a 57cm size swede. Ive tried some helmets (propero II, boardman, giro something) on and they all feel pretty much the same stood in a shop (should've asked them to blast the AC in my face for a better idea on performance!). So a point in the right direction there would be very helpful!

    There are a few bike shops near me (cardiff) but they have limited stock availability

    After that I'm looking at mudguards, gloves (as it's a bit nipply at the mo!), clothing, tools, pumps, locks, storage... pretty much everything! I bought some vision front and back lightsx2 upon the reviews given.

    Do I need an alternative set of tyres? Break down kit/flat tyre repair? Oils? Tools?

    And my wife wants me to get a childs bike seat on the back! Any ideas there?

    Help me please I'm the ultimate mess when it comes to making decisions on reviews!
  • Having only ever ridden low end Shimano, I'm overdue a new bike, therefore can you please explain the main differences/feel between Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM.

    Many thanks in advance, Andy
  • adamsale
    adamsale Posts: 1
    Hi, I've just purchased a pre-owned Boardman Road Comp believing it to be large. The Bike was originally bought from Halfords in July 2011 by the chap who sold it to me. The invoice shows the bike frame size as 21" and the build and pre delivery paperwork depicts the letter L for large on it. I recently checked the product code ( 226790 ) detailed on the receipt and checked it against the Halfords website.The number denotes a 53cm bike which is described as medium and not large. I spoke to the Bike department at Halfords and was told that the 2011 range of Boardman bikes were sized accordingly and that the 21" frame was considered large. He asked if I was about 6' 0" in height and I confirmed that I was and he said that would normally be the bike specified in the "Boardman Range" for someone of that height. I have raised the height of the saddle almost to its maximum position and the riding position seems ok. I am though wondering why Halfords or Boardman bikes are describing a 21" frame as large when Halfords describe product code 226790 as 53cm medium. I am in two minds now as to whether to look for a 55cm Boardman Road Comp or is what I am being told by Halfords appropriate. Can you help me please?
  • mabbo
    mabbo Posts: 117
    Same old question.

    Thinking of upgrading my Giant Defy 1, 2010 model. Just because I can. Runs on all 105 kit. Mavic CXP 22 wheelset, no name hubs.

    Budget is a strict £400. Bets option looks to be new wheels, in which case the price will include new cassette and tyres as I will keep the Mavics for my commuting, and use new wheels for weekends and club rides.On my budget it looks like I can get a pair of wheels that come in at about 1650gm. I have no idea what the CXP22's weigh, but the few wheel types I have looked at all feel a lot lighter.

    My question is...............does a set of lighter wheels really make that much difference???????
  • Pantani98
    Pantani98 Posts: 79
    I'm going on holiday to Majorca this summer and taking my Bianchi with me. The bike is insured but I'll be required to leave it locked up with a Gold Sold Secured approved lock.

    Any suggestions on the best lock to take? I'm looking for the lightest possible option to keep my baggage allowance in check. And I'm looking for something that doesn't cost the earth.
  • Hello, and good Friday morning :D

    So I'm looking to get a new Road bike, I'm a keen mountain biker however after recently moving to London from the Midlands things are far flatter, and hence I need to diversify my bike portfolio (tongue in cheek london reference)..

    Looking to spend £1000. What should I go for?.. I'm planning to do longer, up to 100 mile, weekly rides and so want something that isn't going to destroy my back. Bianchi c2c's look nice but a little overpriced perhaps?.. I've seen a Scott CR1 online for £1k which could be ideal, or a Cube Pelaton?.. Is there a brand or range that I should look towards?...

    Any help is much appreciated!
  • posquitto
    posquitto Posts: 1
    I own a Bianchi Via Nirone 2300 road bike - an entry level £600 job and am currently training for my first 100 mile sportive.

    I keep having spokes snap on both wheels. I'm 15.5 stone ish and trying to lose a bit!

    I phoned my local bike shop about it as I'm fed up paying for new spokes and truing at £15-20 a time and they recommended upgrading my wheels and suggested the Mavic Aksiums.
    These are costly but i have found them for £160. I have also seen some Shimano RS20's for £120.

    I realise my wheels are only cheap ones and that upgrading to either of these would be "wasted" on my level of bike weight wise, I just want a set of strong wheels on which the spokes may last!

    Would these be strong enough or are there any others you can recommend for me as a budget spender!!

    Cheers. James
  • nathan75
    nathan75 Posts: 13
    Not sure if you already have an answer but..... I weight 15.5 stone and have a Binachi Via Nirone, the wheels that come with them are crap, I stripped the back wheel in the first year and had a 7 mile walk home :(. I upgraded to custom built wheels that have Mavic Open Pro rims and Hope Pro 3 hubs laced with standard spokes. They're great, much stiffer and bullet proof and have made a big diffence to the bike. They cost about £230 for both (ish). Yesterday I broke my first spoke after a year! I'm still really happy with the wheels, I think having the odd spoke break is an occasional hazard. The good news with these wheels is that most bike shops have the spokes as stock and can replace in an hour. The other good news is that, although the wheel buckled slightly, it was still strong enough to get me home through another 10 miles without an issues :)
  • Hi

    Just wondering if anyone can help. I have a boardman comp hybrid and I want to get a pair of shorter pedal cranks.

    I am really struggling to find anywhere online that sells them. The current cranks are 7.5' (190mm) and I am looking to get some much shorter

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?

    Thanks
  • riccarem
    riccarem Posts: 1
    Hello

    I hope somebody can help me choose a bike here as I think I need some expert advise.
    I am after a sporty but all year round bike for commute and social rides. I thought that Ribble Audax or Ribble 7046 curved would tick the boxes and they have all very good reviews.
    However I have found Ribble customer service quite inefficient... I won't mention the details to keep it short.

    Today I have been to a bike shop and noted the Giant Defy 2 2012... and I quite liked it! They priced the bike at £700! (RRP is £799).

    In an nutshell I am more confused!: Shall I go for a customised Ribble Audax, the sporty 7046 or for the Giant bike now?!

    Hope somebody can shed some lights with pros and cons of both bikes...

    Thanks in advance,

    Ric
  • docroel
    docroel Posts: 1
    Hello. I just want to know if the colnag move (aluminum) road bike is really made in Italy. Is it made in that manufacturer's native land?
  • Wheelian
    Wheelian Posts: 2
    Hi. Just bought a lovely new Trek Madone 3.5 2012, my decision massively (entirely actually) influenced by your bike of the year runner up award.

    I have a pair of Fulcrum 5 wheels I bought as an upgrade for my specialized earlier this year. Are Fulcrum 5s better than the stock Bontrager SSR wheels that come with the Trek Madone 3.5?
    Should I put them on the Trek?
    I'm unsure what to do. :?

    Thanks for your help.
    Ian