light wheel question

sheepsteeth

is there such a thing as a wheelset, factory or custom build, that weighs around 1650g complete and has 32 spokes front and back?

my current wheels (rovals) are really good, havent needed truing or adjusting in the 2.5yrs ive had them but im wondering if i should have some more spokes as these are 24 spoke jobbies. if i was to replace them id want a similar wheel weight (1650g)

typically, will a well built 32 spoke wheel be much stronger than a well built 24 spoke wheel?

i would say im an XC rider as i ride up and down hills but i would be looking for an all mountain build (as we know, there is no such thing as riding all mountain, but there are such things as all mountain bikes and components)

budget wise, im not too fussed but around 3 hundred quid would be ideal if such a build is posible on that budget.

the other option is a heavier set of wheels for harder riding perhaps? maybe something around 1900g meaning i have my current faultless wheels for general riding and a heavier duty set for tougher riding. if so, what would you recommend?

leaflite

I think most people reccomend hope or superstar hubs on stans flow rims for a 1800-1900g hard hitting wheelset.

For a 1650g wheelset, how about easton haven(1650g iirc) for £600, easton haven carbon 1450g (dead expensive, about £1.5k iirc!) or American Classic AM 26 tubeless(2011 model is 1546g, but I dont think its in the shops yet. The 2010 model is, but it weighs 1910g! If the price of the 2010 wheels is anything to go by though, they should cost £300-£400)


TBH though, I would stick with the rovals as long as they are working.

cooldad

Lightweight wheels should be fine for your dainty little body.

Shaggy_Dog

If you use Sapim CX-rays you have a chance of getting some rims like Bontager Dusters or Notubes Flows down to under 1700g on Hope Pro 2's. A lot of factory built wheels use 2x lacing to get the weight down (Bonty Rhythms for example) whilst using normal spokes (as opposed to alloy) and a reasonable spoke count, this makes them a little flexier, but hasn't caused me any gripes thus far.

Dick Scruttock

How much do you weigh?

sheepsteeth

looked at the havens and i dont thnk they would be an upgrade, just had a look and my wheels are 24 front and 28 spoke rears. i would only consider changing them for a higher spoke count

im assuming more spokes makes a stronger wheel.

that said, my wheels have bee spot on in the time ive had them and have put up with my poor technique and enormous bulk, maybe im better off sticking to what i have?

sheepsteeth

Rick Draper wrote:

How much do you weigh?

about a gajillion stone. (128 kg)

Dick Scruttock

Pro 2's with flows from the hoops range weight about F880/R1006g. So looking at that imho i would stick with what you know. Lighter and you have had no problems up to now so just continue to roll with them.

cooldad

I think quality components and build is more important than actual spoke count, although all things being equal, more spokes would be stronger.
I reckon if your current wheels have stayed true they must be pretty good, I'm a bit chunky (although a lightweight by comparison) and worry about mine a lot, can't really believe something that looks so flimsy can take so much punishment. Spoked wheels have a little bit of magic in them I think.
I've recently fitted some Fulcrums with weird spokes - 16 one side (front - braking, rear - drive) and 8 on the other, and they are noticeably stiffer than the 32 spoke wheels they replaced.
And I like showing people the weird spokes so double win.

Northwind

If the Traversees are working for you, why change? They're very strong for their weight, most lighter wheelsets are either less strong, or mentally expensive. I've only seen a couple of wheelsets I'd call an upgrade from mine, and one of them's the carbon eastons :shock:

I do have a second set of tougher wheels though, 721s on Pro 2s, which I stick on for harder use and just because it's easier than changing the tyres to my dh ones!

RedJohn

The otherwise same wheels built with more spokes will definitely be stronger. The other advantage is that if you do break a spoke, the wheel will usually stay rideable enough to get back to base. The fewer spokes you have, the more dramatic the effect when one breaks!

Handbuilt wheels should be able to get light enough without too much trouble. I've got some XTR hubs, 32 d/b spokes, SunRingle rims. They're a couple of years old, I weighed them when I built them, something like 1500g I think. I wrote it down somewhere ... they cost then about £280 for the parts, will have gone up a bit. by now though. I've gone from 115kg down to about 90kg (and, ahem, back up a bit :-() since I've had them, no worries.

Saying that, as above, if your current wheels are still true and you've used them a fair bit, they're probably up to the job for you, unless you plan to get more adventurous than you have been.

allthegearnoidea

american classic's are 1486g and 32spoke front and rear, also come with a 240lb rider limit, (which at 128kg you'll be a little over but they are built to withstand the greater pressures) which is muchly advantagous over many of the others which are typically 180lb/80kg, - many of the hope hoops,
ive had mine for nearly 6 months and Love them, there's a little flex in them but i'm not light either at 100+kg nekkid but despite it and a good thrashing they are still perfectly true,
they are also Very smooth and fast rolling, and have Strenthened inserts on the cassette hub body to help prevent the cassette's from Chewing it up, quick engagement too,
they dont come with the tubeless valves though, but the AM classic ones are annodized Red 8) and £12 the pair iirc.

a bit of searching the net for another chap on a wheel thread a month or two back found them for £320 iirc so close to budget!! !

njee20

f you use Sapim CX-rays you have a chance of getting some rims like Bontager Dusters or Notubes Flows down to under 1700g on Hope Pro 2's

Flexy though, just use Revolutions and save a fortune if weight saving is the aim. Only real advantage of CX-Rays is their fatigue strength, and unless you snap a lot of spokes that's not really a big issue. Used them for several sets of wheels, but wouldn't bother again frankly.

I've got some Hope Hoops on Crests (bog standard 32h, 3x) and they're 1585g. If you used Flows and Revolutions you'd be around 1650g, just depends if you want a tougher rim, or tougher spokes. Otherwise, just keep the Rovals until they fall apart.

lawman

The stans ztr hubs are supposidly very good, and light too, quoted weight with supercomps and flows is around 1700g and can be had for around £340, pro2's would weigh abit more, but spares are probably easier to get. The rivals are a good wheelset, they always seem to get decent reviews, so I'd stock with those and get some flows on superstar hubs for gnarlier riding, should be pretty bomb proof

pastey_boy

i recently snapped a spoke on my traversees, also swapped all the alloy nips for brass. now just keeping them as spares, recently got the superstar/flow/sapim race combo that weighs 1900g, if you dont need such a robust wheel the a set of superstar hubs with stans arch rims and sapim cx-rays would be a good option and should weigh approx 1650-1700g but with the added security of 32 spokes and brass nips. i weighed the roval rims when i stripped them down to rebuild and the rims weighed in at 420g each, the same as the stans arch rims. i recommend the superstar hubs as the spares are very cheap and they are very adaptable and seem really well made.

Anonymous

Keep what you have until they give in, Sheeps.
I'd be concerned about going excessively lightweight myself, but you're a tad larger again.

njee20

You should borrow my 1246g Podiums, be interested to see how they faired :-)

Unless you do snap a lot of spokes I really wouldn't bother with CX-Rays, they'll build into a flexy wheel. If you're after something stiff (as I imagine you are at your mass!) then I'd stick with Competitions or Super Comps and put the £100 saved into nicer hubs/rims.