Boardman 2010 Team FS Crank - non standard fittings I think
robdaykin
Posts: 102
I'm trying to remove the crank from my team fs so that I can do something about the pivot bearings that are loose behind it, but I've run into a strange problem.
The crank is labelled Truvativ Firex, the spec states it's the 3.2 variant, with a GXP bottom bracket. The spider says GXP on it, and it's definitely an external bearing bottom bracket.
The drive side is open, and on the non drive side is a 'washer' (it's a nut with an external thread into the crank, and a 10mm hex hole in the middle through which you can see a second fitting).
On the Truvativ tech docs site, the supplied documentation, and the Park tools site it says the fitting is a straightforward 8mm hex key, counter clockwise to undo, but this is not an 8mm hex fitting. The 'washer' is 10mm hex and comes out quite easily, with about 4 mm depth of thread. Behind that is a star nut. My T50 torx bit kind of fits, but it is not a good fit. Specifically if I try to turn the nut, the bit can slip slightly before it engages and locks tight. If I try and reverse the direction, it again slips before it engages. It also then jams in place and needs a gentle tap to disengage it.
Looking at the nut, it seemed slightly binged already, before I started on it.
I've not put any real pressure on the tool to try and remove the nut, on the grounds I'm not sure T50 is the right tool, and whether it should be counter clockwise or not, given that this is definitely not what I thought I'd find when I turned the bike over.
Any ideas? Is this a standard fitting and I'm looking at the wrong docs?
And before anyone asks for pictures, I don't own a digital camera (not even in a phone), and so I can't get you a picture of it before next week (when I'm borrowing my girlfriend's so I can list some stuff in the classifieds). Sorry I know that's not helpful, but I'm kind of hoping this is a simple fix, and I'm missing something obvious.
thanks
Rob
The crank is labelled Truvativ Firex, the spec states it's the 3.2 variant, with a GXP bottom bracket. The spider says GXP on it, and it's definitely an external bearing bottom bracket.
The drive side is open, and on the non drive side is a 'washer' (it's a nut with an external thread into the crank, and a 10mm hex hole in the middle through which you can see a second fitting).
On the Truvativ tech docs site, the supplied documentation, and the Park tools site it says the fitting is a straightforward 8mm hex key, counter clockwise to undo, but this is not an 8mm hex fitting. The 'washer' is 10mm hex and comes out quite easily, with about 4 mm depth of thread. Behind that is a star nut. My T50 torx bit kind of fits, but it is not a good fit. Specifically if I try to turn the nut, the bit can slip slightly before it engages and locks tight. If I try and reverse the direction, it again slips before it engages. It also then jams in place and needs a gentle tap to disengage it.
Looking at the nut, it seemed slightly binged already, before I started on it.
I've not put any real pressure on the tool to try and remove the nut, on the grounds I'm not sure T50 is the right tool, and whether it should be counter clockwise or not, given that this is definitely not what I thought I'd find when I turned the bike over.
Any ideas? Is this a standard fitting and I'm looking at the wrong docs?
And before anyone asks for pictures, I don't own a digital camera (not even in a phone), and so I can't get you a picture of it before next week (when I'm borrowing my girlfriend's so I can list some stuff in the classifieds). Sorry I know that's not helpful, but I'm kind of hoping this is a simple fix, and I'm missing something obvious.
thanks
Rob
0
Comments
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Need pics of what is happening really. I have 3 GXP cranks and BBs on test, all use a one key fitting and removal, and that is an 8mm.0
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oh alright, I'll add some early next week.
Edit, btw my racer has GXP, and that's definitely 8mm hex too, I checked.0 -
T50 is almost the same as 8mm
just check it for fit. put the extracting ring back in and undo.
but again pics are really needed."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
tried the 8mm hex with the extracting ring back in, but it's too big to fit the inner hole, 7mm goes in, but does not engage. T45 similarly doesn't engage.0
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sounds like assembly damage then."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I've managed to get a neighbour to take some (slightly iffy) pix. These any help?
with outer in place:
and without it:
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fitting/removal damage.
you can use an ISIS crank puller but see about a replacement bolt so you can use the self extracting ability."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Thanks, it looks worse in pictures than it does in the flesh.
I've got an ISIS puller (I think, it's the shimano crank tool and I think it does ISIS as well as octalink and square taper), so I presume I just thread it into the outer and it will push out as usual?
Then it's just a case of getting Halfords to replace the nut, or buying online. I presume it's one of these::
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/truvativ-self-extracting-crank-arm-bolt-m15m26/0
