Workshop tools

rob39
rob39 Posts: 479
edited May 2011 in Workshop
Hi there
I'm going to build a tool kit. I like the idea of the tool kits you have but dubious of the longevity of the tools. Of course I would love a box full of park tools but price is the issue.
My bikes are

Road bike

105 group, ultegra rear mech, 105 flightdeck levers
FSA SLK compact crank/chain ring and bottom bracket (I think)
Shimano WH-R560 rims

And

GT Aggressor xc.2 mtb
Shimano deore group
Truvavit isoflow cranks/chain ring
Tektro IO mechanical disc brakes
Alex DP17 rims
Rockshock dart 2 forks

I would like enough tools to completely strip the bikes to the bare frame, lube and rebuild and maintain them.

What list of tool, would I need
All the best
Rob Taylor

Comments

  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    I work on old cars a lot, from experience it pays to buy the best tools you can afford to avoid rounding off bolts and the like. I prefer Snap On or their cheaper Blue Point brand and I generally buy second hand on ebay. If you buy one Snap On item make it a 5mm allen socket, it fits far better than anything else and has a lifetime warranty. There IS a difference with professional tools.

    The other thing I'd not be without is my Snap On ratcheting screwdriver with interchangeable bits. Initially I thought this would be a bit naff, but it's superb and I use it all the time. Really well made.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    As above re Snap On - its the best. Facom is a very close second.

    The old adage is to buy a good quality set of tools and use them for all your jobs: you'll soon find out what wears out first because you use it the most and then replace these with better quality. Things like 32mm sockets you'll use once a year, so don't bankrupt yourself.

    Things like allen keys, you'll use every day - buy the best you can afford.

    I build race 250cc m/bikes and would say go Snap On, Facom the something like Teng - good quality and very affordable.

    I also use Sealey Draper torque wrenches as they are very good value for money.

    When buying your tools, don't just go to the nearest shop: track down your local motor factor/specialist tool supplier and you'll find a whole new world - you'll also discover deals and prices that aren't available to the average man.

    If you can't find one, the Snap On man ill come to you in his big van of loveliness :wink:

    f
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    If you can't find one, the Snap On man ill come to you in his big van of loveliness

    That van is a terrible thing. It's like a mobile sweet shop where you can't afford any of the sweets, yet they all look soooo nice. Remember - you can never have too many tools.

    For ultimate tool porn look at Snap-On tool boxes. I have a second hand top box and it's perfect for me. It's possible to spend over 10,000 just on an empty Snap On tool box (guy in my local bodyshop has a shiny black set, I don't hate him at all - honestly).
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • Berk Bonebonce
    Berk Bonebonce Posts: 1,245
    rob39 wrote:
    What list of tool, would I need

    Do you want us to come and work on your bike as well?

    Part of doing your own work on a bike is knowing what tools you need. See Park Tool and Cyclus websites.
  • Berk Bonebonce
    Berk Bonebonce Posts: 1,245
    rob39 wrote:
    What list of tool, would I need

    Do you want us to come and work on your bike as well?

    Part of doing your own work on a bike is knowing what tools you need. See Park Tool and Cyclus websites.
  • MrChuck
    MrChuck Posts: 1,663
    As a starter, there's:

    Allen keys
    BB tools (obviously this depends on what you've got, might need two sets)
    Chain whip
    Cassette lockring tool
    Torque wrench
    Phillips screwdriver
    Torx keys
    Set of spanners (or a good adjustable one)
    Cone spanners (depending)

    And that's all I can think of that I ever really use of the top of my head!

    As for quality, in general I'd agree that you should get the best you can afford, but sometimes it doesn't really matter- for example I can't see that the Park Tools chain whip is going to work that much better or be that much more durable than the BBB one I've got.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    MrChuck wrote:
    (or a good adjustable one)Cone spanners (depending)

    NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS GOOD, WHOLESOME, SWEET AND PENDLETONESQUE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.


    You may as well hit it with a big sack of fuckedupness now.Decent spanners only - never, never, never adjustables.

    Using adjustables is like shagging Kerry Catona and not shooting yourself in the face with a gun immediately afterwards. It's just wrong, wrong, wrong.

    You'll use 8,9,10,11,12,13 and 14 mm the most - get some Facom or Snap On. the rest go for some Teng.

    Buy two pots of grease while you're at it - one pot of moly for bits that move, one pot of Copperslip for those that don't
  • MrChuck
    MrChuck Posts: 1,663
    Yossie wrote:
    MrChuck wrote:
    (or a good adjustable one)Cone spanners (depending)

    NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS GOOD, WHOLESOME, SWEET AND PENDLETONESQUE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.


    You may as well hit it with a big sack of fuckedupness now.Decent spanners only - never, never, never adjustables.

    Using adjustables is like shagging Kerry Catona and not shooting yourself in the face with a gun immediately afterwards. It's just wrong, wrong, wrong.

    You'll use 8,9,10,11,12,13 and 14 mm the most - get some Facom or Snap On. the rest go for some Teng.

    Buy two pots of grease while you're at it - one pot of moly for bits that move, one pot of Copperslip for those that don't

    Wow. Guess I must've just been really lucky every time I've used mine then. Or maybe my bikes are totally screwd and I've not noticed. Or else... maybe they're not actually that bad?

    As a caveat, obviously you wouldn't want to use an adjustable for every single one of your spannering needs, but I can't say I've noticed any ill effects from using one for the big stuff like Octalink/ISIS BB tools or cassette lockrings.
  • navrig
    navrig Posts: 1,352
    Must admit I have much more confidence when using the right size spanner. I'm always nervous that an adjustable will flex and slip and thats even using decent quality makes.
  • DF33
    DF33 Posts: 732
    Yossie wrote:
    MrChuck wrote:
    (or a good adjustable one)Cone spanners (depending)

    NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS GOOD, WHOLESOME, SWEET AND PENDLETONESQUE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.


    You may as well hit it with a big sack of fuckedupness now.Decent spanners only - never, never, never adjustables.

    Using adjustables is like shagging Kerry Catona and not shooting yourself in the face with a gun immediately afterwards. It's just wrong, wrong, wrong.

    You'll use 8,9,10,11,12,13 and 14 mm the most - get some Facom or Snap On. the rest go for some Teng.

    Buy two pots of grease while you're at it - one pot of moly for bits that move, one pot of Copperslip for those that don't

    Well I'll come over and show you how to use one then.

    My Father served a six year detailed engineering apprenticeship. He has a lot of expensive tools.
    I use a set of Bahco wide jaw adustables inc tiny 4" sized. No problems at all. Neither has my father who uses them a lot.

    Yes, pound shop adjustables will wreck anything they touch with crap and wandering jaws.

    Decent adjustables will stay where you set them. Also the torques used on nearly all bike parts are relatively low so unless rusted on or stuck a good quality small adjustable properly used is fine.

    Snap on are lovely but really, a bit overkill for the part time diy bike maintainer. Pretty accurate decent tools can be had for less than half the cost of those and perfectly accurate and suitable for the op's needs.

    The skill, as with all tools is in the hand that guides them.

    Don't waste money on Snap on unless you are going to use them every day or need the quality or guarantee they give. Unlikely for a home bike diy maintainer.
    Peter
  • LeighB
    LeighB Posts: 326
    Before I got my current job I worked as a mechanic and I don’t have one Snap On item in my tool box as they were just far too expensive. I have all sorts of tools of varying quality and to be honest even some of the cheaper ones are more than fit for purpose. I have a set of Halfords branded spanners I bough as a teenager and 30 years later the 15mm one is in regular use on bike wheel nuts and pedals. My best spanners are Britool and I think they are excellent at a fraction of the price of Snap On. I cant help but feel there is a bit of ‘tool snobbery’ goes on as how many people can honestly say they have worn out a spanner if it has been used for its correct application.
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    There most certainly is tool snobbery out there. I don't have Snap On spanners either, way too dear. But what Snap On or Blue Point tools I have do own seem to fit into / onto nuts and bolts much better than anything else I own.

    I had a Halfords socket set and it rounded off more bolts than I care to remember. But that was mainly on classic cars. On bikes I've found worn / slightly stripped allen bolts I can remove with my Snap On socket but not with normal allen keys. Same for their screwdrivers. I suspect things like Park Tools may be the same.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • P_Tucker
    P_Tucker Posts: 1,878
    FWIW, I have a fairly nasty scar on my right arm which is testament to what happens if you buy a £4 set of allen keys from the bargain bin at B&Q. Yes I should have known better, but I was a skint student at the time.
  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    Don't get a chain whip, get the superior Pedros Vise Whip, briliiant tool and excellent quality.

    For a tool kit, don't go and buy one of these complete kits as half the tools won't be much cop or you won't use them. Instead, make up your own bespoke tool kit by buying quality branded tools you actually need and will use.
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    halfords proffesional range are very good quality chrome vanadium. ive got a set 16 years old and have been hammering them for years on my car.
  • Coach H
    Coach H Posts: 1,092
    Don't get a chain whip, get the superior Pedros Vise Whip, briliiant tool and excellent quality.

    I fully agree. The best tool compared to standard that you can get.
    Coach H. (Dont ask me for training advice - 'It's not about the bike')
  • mikeq
    mikeq Posts: 141
    Whats wrong with an 'ordinary' chain whip? and why would I spend £40 on one of those Pedros thingies?
    Cycling from Glasgow to Paris to raise funds for Asthma UK

    www.velochallenge.org