Minor bulge in tyre wall

cycladianpirate
cycladianpirate Posts: 122
edited May 2011 in The workshop
I've recently noticed a minor bulge in the wall of a Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre. The deflection is no more than a few mm and the bead seems firmly in position. There is no discernible variation in the tread and the thing is as much of a pain to get on and off the rim as ever it was. I've certainly not noticed anything when riding, neither have I noticed any significant loss of pressure over time.

I've taken the tyre on and off a couple of times. Changed the inner tube, even tried it on the other wheel but the same thing happens again when I inflate (so I don't think it's anything to do with the rim).

Is this something I should just shrug off, or is "safety first" the best policy? It's probably done around 1000km - no more.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Comments

  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    I'd bin it.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    I'd bin it, but if it's only done 1,000 km, I'd contact Schwalbe to see what they say.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Bin it. I don't think that ANY bulge in a tire is minor. If you get my meaning. :wink::wink:
  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    Put it on the rear wheel. It'll get more load, but a rear blow out is easier than a front. I've run tyres until the threads show, bulging carcasses or damaged beads, only some have failed dramatically - normally resulting in cycling home with no tyre/

    Once, between paychecks, I ran for 4 days with the rear held on by zip ties, used to get concerned cyclists asking if I needed to borrow a pump. You get the funniest looks...
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • Ah well, looks like the consensus is to bin it - thanks. Not sure I fancy the 'zip tie approach' all that much :shock:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    +1 on binning it, but certainly worth approaching Schwalbe UK to see if they will do something for you.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Put it on the rear wheel. It'll get more load, but a rear blow out is easier than a front. I've run tyres until the threads show, bulging carcasses or damaged beads, only some have failed dramatically - normally resulting in cycling home with no tyre/

    Once, between paychecks, I ran for 4 days with the rear held on by zip ties, used to get concerned cyclists asking if I needed to borrow a pump. You get the funniest looks...

    I got a split in the sidewall last year. Eventually, the broken wires punctured the inner tube so I replaced the tube and fixed the sidewall with some cardboard I found in my rucksack and then forgot about it. About 3 days later, it punctured again so when I got home I ordered new tyres. I then patched the hole in the tyre with toothpaste tube plastic and ran the bike for a couple more days at which point the inner tube exploded.

    Luckily it wasn't far to go so I zip tied the tyre and made my way slowly home in the rain! The new tyres were waiting for me!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    Hey, i got a few scalps with that set up, but on reflection it's probably best to replace :(
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Rolf F wrote:
    I then patched the hole in the tyre with toothpaste tube plastic and ran the bike for a couple more days at which point the inner tube exploded.

    Reckon you coulda got another 1000 miles out of it if you'd double-layered your toothpaste tube!
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  • jeremyrundle
    jeremyrundle Posts: 1,014
    Put it on the rear wheel. It'll get more load, but a rear blow out is easier than a front. I've run tyres until the threads show, bulging carcasses or damaged beads, only some have failed dramatically - normally resulting in cycling home with no tyre/

    Once, between paychecks, I ran for 4 days with the rear held on by zip ties, used to get concerned cyclists asking if I needed to borrow a pump. You get the funniest looks...


    And you "boast" about all of this while cycling on the "road", I don't think it is clever at all.
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  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    Zip-Tied tyre was better than bare rim, just an option, not always a good one. You think it would be clever to... walk?
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    Put it on the rear wheel. It'll get more load, but a rear blow out is easier than a front. I've run tyres until the threads show, bulging carcasses or damaged beads, only some have failed dramatically - normally resulting in cycling home with no tyre/

    Once, between paychecks, I ran for 4 days with the rear held on by zip ties, used to get concerned cyclists asking if I needed to borrow a pump. You get the funniest looks...


    And you "boast" about all of this while cycling on the "road", I don't think it is clever at all.

    Would you clarify why you think this is foolish? What exactly is the risk that is being run, and is it really sufficiently large to warrant concern?

    Cheers,
    W.