Hub & cassette wear?
iPete
Posts: 6,076
Possibly being daft.
Whats acceptable wear for the cassette against the hub?
Had to fight to get my cassette of a damaged wheel & I'm now running 'weekend' wheels which = lots of switching.
After 40 miles on the new commuter wheel I noticed the cassette is already biting into the hub.
Am I over tightening, under tightening or is this completely normal?
Whats acceptable wear for the cassette against the hub?
Had to fight to get my cassette of a damaged wheel & I'm now running 'weekend' wheels which = lots of switching.
After 40 miles on the new commuter wheel I noticed the cassette is already biting into the hub.
Am I over tightening, under tightening or is this completely normal?
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Comments
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what is the body made from?
looks like aluminium.
it happens when the cogs are all separate. Most makers with Alloy bodies suggest using cassettes that use a carrier. not often found on road cassettes.
to sum up it is normal."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I've done this to two hubs. On the second, one of the sprockets actually worked its way through the groove on the hub.
@Nick - I heard that a better quality cassette, which fits in the grooves more snugly so there's less play, can help avoid this. Any thoughts? I'm not convinced because I've done it on both occasions with Ultegra cassettes.FCN 2-4.
"What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
"It stays down, Daddy."
"Exactly."0 -
Nick, blue cheese I'm guessing! (ok google says the Halo Mercury has an alloy hub).
Put the commute wheels back on and the weekend wheels with steel hubs (apparently, RS80s) are still perfect, result!0 -
I wouldn't have thought that the tightness of the lock nut is that relevant. You'd have to massively over-tighten it to prevent any movement of the cassette relative to the hub. I've seen similar wear on both my most recent freehubs, although not as marked as shown in the picture. I guess it's a symptom of the push for lighter (and presumably slightly softer) components, but freehubs are fairly easy to replace and IIRC not that expensive.1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
Pinnacle Monzonite
Part of the anti-growth coalition0 -
nicklouse wrote:looks like aluminium.
it happens when the cogs are all separate.
to sum up it is normal.
Confirmed. The aluminium freehub on my current back wheel is much worse than that (so much so that I need to use a chainwhip to get the cogs out of the grooves when I take the cassette off! Next time I'm replacing the cassette I'm expecting to replace the freehub body as well. I'm just crossing my fingers that Hope make a steel freehub body for their road hub so that I can use one of those instead of the current aluminium one.
Mike0 -
On the rear of my best bike I have an expensive and wonderful Hope Pro3 hub
This has an aluminium carrier. I've only had the bike since last autumn and haven't used it heavily. I was surprised when I removed the cassette to find much heavier marks than you have. I had to file them out. But I am told that this is normal and the recommended solution is to use a cassette that is all one part
Still think the Hope hub is nice though. Apparently there are steel freehub bodies available0 -
vorsprung wrote:On the rear of my best bike I have an expensive and wonderful Hope Pro3 hub
Still think the Hope hub is nice though. Apparently there are steel freehub bodies available
Mike0 -
over £60 for the steel body."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Hub body is unfit for purpose, surely. Not that that is news for something sold for a bicycle.
http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#aluminum0 -
nicklouse wrote:Most makers with Alloy bodies suggest using cassettes that use a carrier. not often found on road cassettes.
An aluminium cassette might work, if the aluminium cassette was soft enough...
Edit: Ah. I see what you mean. Like XTR.0