Trek Madone 5.9 cable drag.

billybiker
billybiker Posts: 272
edited April 2011 in Workshop
I have a 2010 Trek Madone 5.9 with Ultegra. The change on the rear mech has been poor since I got the bike and been back once to the shop I bought it from. Despite new cables the change is still poor compared to my other bikes with a variety of groupsets. Today, I've just changed the cable outers to Shimano ones and there does seem to be an improvement. Anyone else had this problem and can maybe offer some tips?
www.withamwheelers.co.uk

Comments

  • Rule74Please
    Rule74Please Posts: 307
    Have one of these myself - Can you define poor?
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  • billybiker
    billybiker Posts: 272
    Rule74Please wrote:
    Have one of these myself - Can you define poor?

    I'll try! My other Trek, Dura Ace, changes so quickly that I often think it hasn't changed. The change is instant and reliable. On the Madone there is a short pause before the chain moves and often (say one in ten) a reluctance to move up or down which can only be sorted with a "tweak" on the lever. When i first bought it you had to change 2 gears then back one in order to make a change. There does seem to be a few people out there having snags with the internal cable routing.
    www.withamwheelers.co.uk
  • Rule74Please
    Rule74Please Posts: 307
    Is yours blue and white with the round seat post?
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  • billybiker
    billybiker Posts: 272
    Rule74Please wrote:
    Is yours blue and white with the round seat post?

    Yes, thats right, I think its the 2010 madone 5.9 performance but I've Ultegra circa 2009 (with the external cable routing) fitted with a triple as the frame was a replacement after my older bike cracked at the BB. Obviously, the bike shop swapped everything over but the old bike had red cables and I asked for black ones this time. Think they are vitus or something. Just been and bought a Shimano Dura Ace cable set which specifies a shimano grease ONLY for the cables. Need some of that now!
    www.withamwheelers.co.uk
  • Rule74Please
    Rule74Please Posts: 307
    2011 model. Main problems occur when your cables cross. despite what you read it add extra friction to the system. Also check how it runs near the bb shell inside. Also try a slightly longer rear loop than that supplied. Often helps and is used on SRAM bikes for that exact reason. Your mechanic may have made the loop too short. Ignore the comment on shimano grease it is just done for profit. Best results are from putting a little oil on your fingers and running the cable thru them as you fit.
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  • MarcBC
    MarcBC Posts: 333
    I can't help with you dilemma but my 2011 5.9 with Dura Ace / Ultegra and internal cabling is an absolute dream to shift (at the moment)
  • billybiker
    billybiker Posts: 272
    MarcBC wrote:
    I can't help with you dilemma but my 2011 5.9 with Dura Ace / Ultegra and internal cabling is an absolute dream to shift (at the moment)

    Thats probably, at a guess, is because your's was a complete bike and came with the correct cable outers-ie shimano ones! After not a lot of help from my LBS I've changed all the cables for Dura Ace ones using the grease specified on the package which is a shimano one. The bike is transformed-changes quickly and reliably. Seems strange that a new cable and outer of the wrong "type" can make so much differance. Anyway I guess the bottom line is if you have a simano geared bike use shimano cables and specific lube.
    www.withamwheelers.co.uk
  • Rule74Please
    Rule74Please Posts: 307
    That's rubbish mine actually had Campag casings with sram cables. The difference is now they have done it properly as they should have done the first time
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