Judder/Lack of "bite on Tektro Auriga Pro Discs

mattrixdesign2

Hi

Had my Rockhopper SL for about 10months now, its been fine, its was my return to MTBs after about 10years out, and the discs brakes were an amazing improvement.

However at the moment the front brake seems to lack something it once had.

On heavy braking its not an instant stop, its more of a quick slow with judder at the front of the bike.

What is likely to cause this oil/grease on the discs/pads, worn pads - something else?

Any tips - happy to replace pads, or can I try something else. I haven't a clue how they work so not keen on servicing them, but happy to remove pads - its dead easy.

mattrixdesign2

anyone?

tri-sexual

could be a number of things, calipers, rotors, pads
do visual inspections of braking system and look for anything that dont look right, even novices can sometimes spot things which are out of the ordinary, use a steel ruler to check the rotor for trueness
if nothing really stands out then remove pads and check their condition, contaminated, worn/ evenly wear, damaged pads can all cause symptons like those that you describe and if left can cause damade to the rotors
if u are unsure whther the pads are damaged, take the pads from the rearbrake and insert them into the front and try them to see if there is any improvement, if so then you know that front pads need replaceing.

mattrixdesign2

May try swapping them around, didn't think about that.

Mr OCD

mattrixdesign2 wrote:

anyone?

Will be the pads ... had same issues ...

I put Superstar HH pads in mine and cleaned the disks with brake cleaner. Superb brakes.

mattrixdesign2

Superstar HH ? Where from - for the same type of brakes as mine?

ThePriory1978

From here

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=21

ridz19

It could be the callipers, i had a judder on these brakes when i was out and found the screws holding them to adapter that attaches to the fork had worked slightly loose, barely noticable but with a wee push you could move the calliper side to side.

mattrixdesign2

Whch pad option to I go for?

I presume S2 - Tektro Auriga hydraulic...

Cheap prices on that site!!!

I will try the swap tonight, check the bolts, and if that fails... not sure

skellator3

i would say you have glazed the surface of your pads, take them out rub the surface with fine emery paper clean the rotors with isoprop alcohol re insert pads and then bed them in by doing about 15 - 20 hard stops to heat them up then pour some water on them and repeat this should hopefully sort out the prob.
even if you fit new pads its worth bedding them in , in the way described above

mattrixdesign2

where do I get isoprop alcohol from?

Chemist
DIY
Drug Dealer

skellator3

try a pharmacy

mattrixdesign2

OK Guys - thanks for all your help - sounds like I should be able to at least find the problem tonight, and purchase a solution tomorrow if needed.

Great help!

mattrixdesign2

I have had a go at switching them, bearing in mind it was the front ones I had problems with.

I put the rears on the front (and front on the rears), it improved the front braking (still not perfect but definitely better), and made the rears worse, so it seems the pads are the problem.

Noticed some scores on the pads, i.e. not constant wear but wear in certain parts, rubbed them down with some emery paper.

I have swithched them back to where they were and overall improved braking, although I suspect the front disc has some oil/greas contamination.

Bought some new pads from superstar to put them on the front.

I have a question, on the old style cable pull type breaks, you had a barrel adjuster for slight adjustments and wear, what is the equivalent adjustment on Hydraulic Discs?

There is an adjustment on the front of the brakes (red twisty knob :oops: ) but that seems to adjust the feel e.g. spongy/hard). I can not imagine ever servicing these myself, I will get in a right mess.

Anonymous

mattrixdesign2 wrote:

Hi

Had my Rockhopper SL for about 10months now, its been fine, its was my return to MTBs after about 10years out, and the discs brakes were an amazing improvement.

However at the moment the front brake seems to lack something it once had.

On heavy braking its not an instant stop, its more of a quick slow with judder at the front of the bike.

If it was an instant stop, you'd be in trouble.

Are you sure you're not just getting used to them? When first switching to discs, they can seem incredibly touchy, but after a while you get used to them and learn their "feel".

mattrixdesign2

I dont want to be chucked over the handle bars on braking, but it has become a judder to bring the bike to a halt.

davildo

I have a hopper SL 2010. Also had it for about 10 months.
I had similar issues with both brakes not long after I got it.
It was really bad at the rear, shook the whole bike and also squealed. After trying to clean the rotor and de-glaze the pads with sandpaper I ended up with a new rotor and pads from superstar, as suggested above. Problem solved.
At the front, it was quite juddery, I put on new pads, superstar again, problem solved.
I think the original pads are a bit iffy.
Another trick I learned whilst spending hours trying to sort it was:
Loosen the bolts holding the caliper to the frame. Then apply the brake (with the wheel on). You should see the caliper move as you apply the brake. Tighten the bolts whilst keeping the brake on. This seemed to centre the caliper and line everything up. It's not the 'official' way to do it but it seemed to work a treat with these brakes.
I would suggest new pads and centring your calipers before any more drastic action. Also try to bed them in properly with a few fast smooth stops. I've never done all the water on the pads business.
I have a new rotor on the back but still the original one on the front with no problems.
Hope that helps.

Anonymous

Davildo wrote:

Loosen the bolts holding the caliper to the frame. Then apply the brake (with the wheel on). You should see the caliper move as you apply the brake. Tighten the bolts whilst keeping the brake on. This seemed to centre the caliper and line everything up. It's not the 'official' way to do it but it seemed to work a treat with these brakes.

That actually IS Avid's "officially approved" way of doing it, except I think they suggest you almost lock the brakes, and rotate the wheel through a full revolution, before fully locking them.
It kinda works, but never as well as just eyeballing it, I find.

davildo

Also, all the red knob does is move the brake lever nearer to or further from the grip.
You could try bleeding the brakes but it is a right pain in the arse with these brakes, so be prepared to have a few goes at it until you get the hang of it.
Cheers.