The on-going micro-budget project Giant World Cup

reptile smile

Hi all,

This thread ended up here by means of a fairly circuitous route. It's peppered with tech advice requests, but in order to keep within the spirit of this board, I'm editing this first post to reflect the most recent incarnation of it. The rest of the thread follows...

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IMG_0237 by Ian Garforth, on Flickr


IMG_0236 by Ian Garforth, on Flickr

Frame: Giant World Cup, circa 2000 (any further detail gratefully received)
Forks: Rock Shox J2 (poss not original - travel is enormous)
Bars: Unbranded and rusting in places
Stem: Kore
Headset: Ritchey Logic
Grips: Unbranded
Bar Ends: Not since the late 90s, thank you very much...

Front Brake Lever assy: V brake currently not mounted as unable to source bosses
Front Caliper: Not yet
Front disc: It's coming
Rear Brake Lever assy: V brake combined with gear shifter in inexplicable late 90s fashion

Shifters: Combined V brake/gear shifting lunacy
Cables: Yes
Front Mech: No
Rear Mech: Shimano Acera
Chain Device: Not wholly necessary on this bike

Seat: Specialized Sofa
Seat Post: Yes
Seat Post Clamp: From 2nd hand box of bits in LBS

Cranks: Shimano
Chainring(s): Missing aound 5% of teeth currently
Chain: One of Shimano's first attempts at engineering, I suspect...
Cassette: 7 speed for the win
Pedals: SPD M520s
Bottom Bracket: Unbranded 68mm square taper still in inexplicably good condition

Front Wheel: Unbranded
Tire: Unbranded

Back Wheel: Unbranded
Tire: Unbranded since I discovered that riding my Nevegals on the road gave them a life span of 3 weeks

Weight: TBA once I get rid of the 'rocks-with-spokes' - but not too shabby, I suspect

Other info: This bike is being built on a micro-budget due to (a) my previous nice bike being stolen, (b) the bike-crime-heavy nature of Bristol and (c) my perpetual skintness. I also, I have to say, find it satisfying.

Build cost so far: £73.37 (though that doesn't include the venerable Diamondback Sorrento I robbed for bits that prob would have sold in Bristol for about £40, or the pedals that I got for Xmas)

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Hi all,

Just won an old frameset on eBay, but I can't find out what model it is anywhere - my eyes are spinning from looking at Giant archives and I'm still none the wiser, and I just wanted to find out a little more information - can anyone help..?

Click me!

Cheers

nicklouse

I am reckoning on a World Cup frame from about 2000.

MountainMonster

For 36 bucks you can't go wrong!

reptile smile

@nicklouse:

Thanks for the heads up. Can't find it on the Giant website archives, or on Bikepedia. In particular, I guess I'm concerned to find out the BB size. Don't suppose anyone knows..?

@MountainMonster:

A brief history of my time: Bought Kona Bolt, had it stolen, had a guy ride past me on it, had it back again, had it stolen again, had to ride my girlfriend's ancient Diamondback Sorrento - so rusty, it effervesces in the rain.

£36 seemed like a no-brainer to me too, particularly when compared to my recent luck

nicklouse

just measure it. 68 or 73. but with modern cranks it does not matter.

IIRC 68mm

MountainMonster

Given that luck you can't go wrong, now just be more careful and leave it handcuffed to your leg, and it won't go missing!

Sorry about the luck though dude, that sucks!

reptile smile

Sorry Nick, I meant more about the bracket length rather than the diameter..?

supersonic

Shell width: 68 or 73mm.

Axle length: depends on cranks fitted and BB.

None of this matters with modern external bearing cranks, as they will all fit for standard bottom bracket shells.

nicklouse

length is what i have given.

axle length totally depends on what cranks you fit. but as i said it it is largely irrelevant unless you are doing a retro build.

nicklouse

here is a '99

MountainMonster

Holy seat post batman! That thing is long!

Anonymous

WHOA, those forks on it in the ebay picture look WAAAAAY too long :shock:

reptile smile

Right, I'm about to really show my ignorance, and maybe my question would have best waited until I'd actually taken delivery it.

Anywho - I'll proceed, but forgive any stupid questions.

My plan is to transfer all the necessary stuff from the Diamondback to Giant, replacing all the crap bits with marginally less crap bits as and when. In the short term I'd like a bike I can commute on, that doesn't make noises so loud that pedestrians turn round to see what's coming up behind them, as currently happens, that I can take off road without any key bits falling off, catching in the front wheel, and sending me without the bike through the air towards trees.

That's in an ideal world...

Now - the bottom bracket on the Diamondback (engineering miracle that it is) appears to be slowly unscrewing on the drive side, resulting in the non drive crank catching on the chain stay. This is somewhat tiresome. I had figured that the old BB was (a) probably knackered, and (b) wouldn't fit the 'new' Giant in as much as I thought I had to buy a cartridge BB that was both the correct shell diameter, and axle length (I'm presuming that - given the age of the DB, it's square tapered cranks ahoy, but don't have a crank puller to check - am borrowing one from a mate, who will oversee my general muppetry while I'm doing all this.

I thought that this was why BB's like this came in all manner of axle lengths - that I have to match both the axle length, and the shell diameter. You seem imply that I'm Mr Wrong from Wrongsville, Wrong County? That any old 63mm BB will probably fit? That I can take the (in all likelihood) 63mm BB from the Engineering Work Of Genius (the Sorrento) and fit it to the Giant - at least it goes pop (probably will take less that a fortnight, given my recent luck...)

Do correct my general or specific wrongness. Thanks for ongoing help. There will almost certainly be more dumb questions coming...

sheepsteeth

nicklouse wrote:

here is a '99

is that one of northwinds bikes? he loves a long seatpost!

Raymondavalon

sheepsteeth wrote:

is that one of northwinds bikes? he loves a long seatpost!

With or without a saddle fitted?

Anonymous

He calls it a "straddle"

nicklouse

reptile smile wrote:

I thought that this was why BB's like this came in all manner of axle lengths - that I have to match both the axle length, and the shell diameter. .

you are correct there.

but you never said that you were planning on swapping anything over.

reptile smile

Gotcha. Apologies for my vagueness. I'm in new territory here, in at least as much as the scale of this.

Rather than fire questions all over the board related to the project, I wonder if I should keep everything in this thread? Don't know what the mods prefer..?

Acccordingly - if I'm taking the old chain off (it's ancient and no doubt knackered, but my budget doesn't yet stretch to changing the whole drive chain, so I figure there's no point putting an new chain on such knackered chainrings/cassette...), is it worth putting a Powerlink on the chain when I put it back on? Can I put a Powerlink on any chain, or is it only possible/worth it on Sram chains?

Also - in acquiring spacers to fit on top of the steerer, am I right in saying it is essential to have some sort of spacer on top of the stem between it and the top cap? And do I want the top of the steerer to tube to be flush with the top of this spacer, or so I want the spacer to be slightly above the level of the top of the steerer?

Thanks so much for your help.

Anonymous

Just another point to help clarify, the whole selection of parts is called "drive train". It helps distinguish between the complete transmission, and the, er, drive chain

nicklouse

chain may not be the correct length in the first place. wait and see.

power links are speed relative and work with most chains.

no spacers are actually needed. but again it depends on the length of the head tube and the type of headset. (dont think they are the same). and then the length of the stem etc...

Northwind

Raymondavalon wrote:

With or without a saddle fitted?

I tried it without but they don't make a seatpost wide enough to satisfy me. It's not about length, it's girth.

RevellRider

nicklouse wrote:

here is a '99

I think the bike frame the OP posted up is different. The one you have there is an 1999 ATX 890. There are differences in the dropout and the 890 has a disc mount.

The one the OP posted I believe was based on the Boulder range. I can't remember if it was the Boulder Team or the Boulder World Cup

reptile smile

Well, the bike came today. I'm still none the wiser as to being able to get any clue from any frame markings as to what the damned thing is. I rather like it, though. I can clarify that the forks are sprung-loaded stilts, and have frankly barmy travel, but seem to be (on first inspection, at least) in relatively good nick.

I was kind of puzzled by the forks' brake mounting points. They have, where you'd expect to mount the V brakes, not the bosses or studs that I was expecting, but female threads going into the fork, along with a small hole for (presumably) the spring to tension in.

I'm assuming I can get some sort of V brake boss/mounting stud that screws into these threads, but Evans were playing dumb, and I don't know what I'm looking for. Can anyone advise? Better, don't suppose anyone could point me at an eBay linky?

Cheers all

RevellRider

What forks are they?

reptile smile

Well, bloody hell...

I only went and made a ride-able bike out of it!!



More here.

Before today, I was strictly in the 'mending punctures and adjusting brakes' bracket. I got a real kick out doing the frame swap today

That said, it's not quite finished...

1) No front brake yet, due to lack of bosses. Revellrider, they're Judy 2's. My LBS told me they're a Rock Shox specific thread, and I can't just rob them from any frame - is this right? But they also seem like rocking horse poo. I don't suppose anyone has any hanging around they'd be prepared to sell me?

2) The forks have 'audible oil slosh' when shaken, have poor damping, and leave a bit of oil on the stanchions after a ride. Everything else smacks of a frame/form that's been unused for a while so it wouldn't hugely surprise me if a fork seal's gone. I'm thinking they need a service, oil change and seal change. Is this a job I can do myself, or this is an LBS job?

3) I cheerfully transplanted the BB, despite the non-drive side not actually screwing all the the way in. I don't know - this may just be me, but the chainrings seem really close to the frame. I don't know whether this is putting the chain at a slightly peculiar angle. I figure it can' be the cassette, because that - presumably - is a fixed width?

There doesn't seem a lot of clearance anywhere, but I've taken pics and included them in the Flickr set above. If anyone gets a chance to have a look, and share the benefit of their wisdom with me, that'd be awesome.

4) No seat collar means I can't sit down yet. Hey ho. Rome wasn't built in a day, and all that...

I guess the main thing is trying to source these V brake bosses, in the short term. But today was a good day. A very good day...

reptile smile

Oh, and PS = no front derailleur, after an incident with a driver choosing just the perfect moment to open his car door on me last month. The resultant down shattered the derailleur, and since then, when I want to change chain-rings, I have to do it by hand. LOL! But it'll come. One day. When I buy another one. Same old same old...

Anonymous

Looking good. I still reckon those forks are a bit long for it though.

reptile smile

They're enormous. Farcically so, I think. One to change for the future, for sure... But cheers for the props!

Anonymous

It really is lush, I wouldn't mind one myself!

I don;t ever remember Judys being that long though! Very odd

reptile smile

Have edited 1st post in this thread to show current build and the all-important total cost

darksideofthemoon

PM'd re brake bosses