custom 2 x 9 set up
mozzy10
Posts: 179
Previously used slx 22-32-44 with a 11-28.
Needed lighter gear for long rides and steeper hills in wet conditions (south downs) so changed to 11-32. This with tripple seems a pretty perfect combo for me and the range of riding I do.
My chainrings are now wearing and I'm wondering about going for a double using my current slx cranks.
I very rarely use the 44 in 11 and 12. I very rarely use the granny in 32. I'd like a 24 or 26 in the granny ring position and a 38 in the middle (ditching the outer ring). I'd switch to a 11-34 cassette.
1. Can I mount these rings on my slx cranks in the granny and middle ring position?
2. Can I use my tripple shifter and just use the limit screws to stop over shifting
3. Will granny and middle ring have the best chainline, or should I use spacers too?
4. What are your recommendations for aftermarket chainrings in the sizes above?
Needed lighter gear for long rides and steeper hills in wet conditions (south downs) so changed to 11-32. This with tripple seems a pretty perfect combo for me and the range of riding I do.
My chainrings are now wearing and I'm wondering about going for a double using my current slx cranks.
I very rarely use the 44 in 11 and 12. I very rarely use the granny in 32. I'd like a 24 or 26 in the granny ring position and a 38 in the middle (ditching the outer ring). I'd switch to a 11-34 cassette.
1. Can I mount these rings on my slx cranks in the granny and middle ring position?
2. Can I use my tripple shifter and just use the limit screws to stop over shifting
3. Will granny and middle ring have the best chainline, or should I use spacers too?
4. What are your recommendations for aftermarket chainrings in the sizes above?
It\'s not your aptitude but your attitude that determins your altitude
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Comments
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you will need to use granny and middle positions.
yes
it works.
any. steel shimano work."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
cheers for the quick reply. re question 4. I can't find any middle rings that go up to 38t or granny rings that go up to 24/26t. Can you post a link to any aftermarket rings?It\'s not your aptitude but your attitude that determins your altitude0
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there many many out there.
CRC and other stores stock loads.
Middleburn do quite a few."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
TA Chinook rings get my vote, and yes to the other questions.0
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Ok, looking a gear ratios and usable gears I reckon a 24 and 38 would be best option for chainrings. It has mos the ratios I currently use and only really looses my current hardest gear (11-44). Will a 14t jump be too much for my front mech to handle?
I'm still weighing up the pros and cons of actually going double. And it won't happen till I wear out my current cassette and can buy a 11-34.
The pros are that I loose the infrequently used gears (44-11, 44-12 and 22-32). I also get better clearance over obstacles. It may be slightly lighter, but not by much taking into account a larger cassette.
There is also less overlap in available ratios between chainrings. I'm not sure if this is a pro or a con. In one way less duplicates is bad, as it means I will have to change more at the front to achieve the correct ratio as there won't be similar gears in all chainrings. Obviously Shimano (3 x10) see overlap and duplicated ratios as a good thing as it means you can shift through more gears on the cassette before having to shift chainring (i.e staying middle 90% or the time and shifting to granny and out for extremes). However, Sram (2 x10) are the opposite, having two chainrings with a large tooth gap means you're more likely to have to shift chainring to achieve the ratio you want (as there is less overlap). It also means more recovery shifts on the cassette when you do change.
Obviously there is a balance to be struck between having a usable range without too many redundant gears at either extreme of the range and having not enough overlap where your having to change chainring lots to keep a good cadence.
I think for me this balance would be a double with 26-28 and a cassette 11-36. Unfortunately no-one makes a 11-36 9 speed cassette, and getting 10-speed would require new shifters as well, and possibly a new rear mech.It\'s not your aptitude but your attitude that determins your altitude0 -
mozzy10 wrote:Ok, looking a gear ratios and usable gears I reckon a 24 and 38 would be best option for chainrings. It has mos the ratios I currently use and only really looses my current hardest gear (11-44). Will a 14t jump be too much for my front mech to handle?
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Front mech will be fine.
IME switching to a double means far less shifting on the front, because the whole block is usable in both rings, but it'll depend on the gears you usually find yourself using. If you're regularly shifting between the 44 and 32, then a chain ring in the middle will almost certainly reduce the number of shifts. However, if you spend all your time on the 32 then losing that will probably result in more regular shifts.
Personally I wouldn't go back to a triple again. YMMV and that.0 -
I was running my trainer as a 1x7 with a 36 chainring and 11/28 cassette. Put the 22t and front mech back on today but having a real pig setting it back up. I take it by adjusting the limit stop screws this is meant to stop the mech moving from 2-3rd ring(ie off?) If so it hasn't worked on mine should I get a longer screw? It's a top pull mech and the screw closest to the frame is the one needing to do this?
Managed to get it chain not rubbing the mech anywhere by accident not good mechanics!!0