Anyone riding 11-28 cassette?

meanredspider

turnerjohn wrote:

but a 52 / 11 is obviously bigger then a 50 / 11

For sure - though I don't often find I'm travelling at over 45mph

turnerjohn

meanredspider wrote:

turnerjohn wrote:

but a 52 / 11 is obviously bigger then a 50 / 11

For sure - though I don't often find I'm travelling at over 45mph

can crank along the flats at around 30mph feeling ok...depends how strong your legs are
compact I'd was spinning out like a looney...didn't like it so change back to standard.

Garz

I ride a compact with a 12-27 and find this covers the ranges I use pretty well. I get up all the climbs and couldn't care less about spinning out. I don't race and don't pretend I can either.

If you don't scale many extreme hills often then I guess the standard will be ok.

meanredspider

turnerjohn wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

turnerjohn wrote:

but a 52 / 11 is obviously bigger then a 50 / 11

For sure - though I don't often find I'm travelling at over 45mph

can crank along the flats at around 30mph feeling ok...depends how strong your legs are
compact I'd was spinning out like a looney...didn't like it so change back to standard.

30mph is 90rpm on my bike - that's pretty much perfect cadence for me.

glasgowbhoy

meanredspider wrote:

Tagging a question on here ref 11-28.

I've been running my 11-28 with a 50-34 using the same chain as was on there for the original 12-25 but it looked a little on the "snug" side so the new chain I've fitted I've added an extra link pair. Is there any objective way of knowing when you've got the right length of chain fitted?

I found out 3/4 of the way up Hardnott pass when my chain snapped! Couldn't even get into the 28 with the chain set up for the 12-25

springtide9

Garz wrote:

I ride a compact with a 12-27 and find this covers the ranges I use pretty well. I get up all the climbs and couldn't care less about spinning out. I don't race and don't pretend I can either.

If you don't scale many extreme hills often then I guess the standard will be ok.

Personally think that if you want 50/11 then get the 11-23 cassette - even if you live in an area with 20% hills. If you are not strong enough to push 34/23 on the hills, then you are probably not strong enough to do the 50/11 justice over a 50/12 set-up, obviously over long stretches (and will benefit for having close mind section ratios that the 12-26|28 would give). With a Compact, it's always a compromise. Just looked up the speeds at at a modest rpm; @90rpm 11/50 gives 32mph and 12/50 gives 29mph. 32mph with a 12/50 would be roughly 99rpm. If you can keep 32mph going on the flats, then you'd be a sub 19min 10 mile TT rider!

I give this advice after not listening to someone on this forum and switching from a 11-23 to a 11-26. I really hate the mid section jump in ratios in my current 11-26 set-up compared to the 11-23. It was 'pride' that wouldn't allow me to give up that "11".

Garz

springtide9 wrote:

I give this advice after not listening to someone on this forum and switching from a 11-23 to a 11-26. I really hate the mid section jump in ratios in my current 11-26 set-up compared to the 11-23. It was 'pride' that wouldn't allow me to give up that "11".

So you gambled on ignoring some 'advice' and realised you made a mistake?

If I was being honest the amount I would use the 11 would be in the rare category. Wherever I cycle by the time your beginning to spin beyond 100rpm in the 12t you either hit an incline or hill or maybe turn off at a junction. In any case most people are always advising about maintaining revs over 100 or around that figure.

Maybe if I was on flatter terrain or regularly practicing TT's I would notice the 11t cog. The phrase horses for courses definitely applies here, so pick the ratio's that you would use the most.

springtide9

Pretty much.

The thing is, I do spin out on occation with 50/11 ... but not enough to give up that more important mid range cog.

I will live with it, and hopefully well get fit enough for the 11-23.. but wish I'd got the 12-26 rather than the 11..

turnerjohn

meanredspider wrote:

turnerjohn wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

turnerjohn wrote:

but a 52 / 11 is obviously bigger then a 50 / 11

For sure - though I don't often find I'm travelling at over 45mph

can crank along the flats at around 30mph feeling ok...depends how strong your legs are
compact I'd was spinning out like a looney...didn't like it so change back to standard.

30mph is 90rpm on my bike - that's pretty much perfect cadence for me.

ha thats exactly why I changed back to standard !

Big Hairy Wallapers

Ive never really studied these threads concerning the lower gears as I've never really encountered proper hills but on Friday I rode the route of the Lakeland Loop.
It was fantastic and a stunning day on the bike but Hardnott beat me. I had to stop and catch my breath 3 times. I didnt get off and walk but I've got unfinished business there!!
I was on a triple with 30/25 but that road is a swine.
Do I man up, pack up or go back on a Mtb n spin up?
Other than that it was a cracking day!!

screebs

I'll be the first to admit that this is all new to me!

I'm riding a 50/34 with a 12/25 cassette and i find hills hard work but rarely stop or get off - not sure whether finding them hard is due to me being new to cycling and having to build my leg muscles (and 42) or whether i'm not getting enough help from the gearing on my bike.

Bizarrely, i couldn't even tell you the gearing on the Hybrid i got up Mont Ventoux on 2 years ago. It was boardman hybrid - now wondering if i was to do ventoux on my existing bike whether it would be harder or not? mmmm- albeit i suspect i'm fitter now! :shock:

PhilofCas

In answer to the opening question: Yes - You Tube video of Lance Armstrong training in the hills advised he was running a 39/28

meanredspider

screebs wrote:

I'll be the first to admit that this is all new to me!

I'm riding a 50/34 with a 12/25 cassette :

That's a very standard set-up and should be fine for most things. I did the Crow Road in both directions on my older Variado with that gearing and it was no issue at all (not that the Crow Rd is the be-all-and-end-all of hills but it's typical of the sort of thing you're likely to come across in this part of the world). I'm not sure my 11/28 has helped me much other than give me the confidence to take the hillier routes home in the knowledge that I've a gear in reserve.

dgstewart

To answer the OP, you'll no notice much difference from 27 to 28 at all, so you will need to consider a compact. As someone else said, look for 2nd hand bargains or sale items. Also, the Dee-Lechtable was a monster route - not surprised you found it hard going! I thought about it, briefly, and decided maybe not this year!

I have 11/28 on both bikes, with a 50/34 on the "winter" Roubaix and a 53/39 on the "summer" Tarmac. Both run fine with standard short cage rear mechs (2nd hand Dura Ace 7800 on Roubaix, so not current 7900 model, and 2009 SRAM Red on Tarmac).

I'm quite a decent climber (170cm and 64kg), but I still like to have the 28 on back to give me a high cadence option if I want it, or just to bail out if I'm knackered. The gaps are a little large in places, but I don't find it a problem - just spin a bit more or grind a bit more, or go faster/slower to suit cadence - be flexible! I wanted 12/27 for the compact, which I had previously but they stopped making that in Ultegra and I wasn't paying for a Dura Ace cassette, so just got the 11/28.